Test drive with the new spring was successful. Still had a very little bit of a ping to it, literally twice when I first started moving. Could just be air left in the system from all the monkeying I did. Has a bit more power and definitely runs smoother than it ever has..........ever.

Greazzer does good work. Have him do your injectors, buy his overflow valve, and be happy.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

THAT IS IT ? Over ? Barry will go into withdrawal....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I'm not calling it done until I've driven it several times with the problem staying solved.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Well...........

Problem is improved, but not solved. Still pings significantly when cold. Good to go when warm, but pings when cold.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Thank you Sir !

Only the truth!

A bit more of an update:

I installed a length of clear vinyl hose between the fuel outlet on the secondary filter and the opaque return line, so that I can check for air. None found.

I noticed a bit of a leak from one of the injector hard lines at the IP. Went to tighten it down a bit and it wouldn't. I loosened it and went oooh crap. The whole element had loosened. I torqued it back down and it started and ran normally, though still with the pinging.

Even I can follow the trail when it's pointed out to me. What sayeth ye, good folk of the diesel discussion? Do I replace all the crush washers or throw in the towel and take it to a shop? At this point I can pull the trigger on an entire new motor if I have to.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Maybe start from scratch and go through check procedures in the FSM.

Im not remembering all the details. But is the valve timing in check? Sounds like ignition problem.

What happened with that bushing? This isn't causing that? I'm confused by the noise. Is there a video on here? I'm lost in cigar hoses.

And finally, the experienced guy said this a long way back. Makes sense with the glow plugs helping, possible ignition problems, and smoking building up after a purge over time.

Replaced all the delivery valve seals yesterday, including the two I'd done before. Seems to have helped. Cold start this morning and a trip into town with no pinging. Fingers crossed.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

That's good news.

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General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo

Retorqued all the delivery valves a couple days ago. When I replaced them, the engine was warm ish, this time I did it cold and got just a little bit more of a turn on each delivery valve. The truck sat for a couple days and then a cold start and test drive today after replacing a U joint, no pinging. So far so good, fingers still crossed.

I think I have narrowed down the odd knocking to the timing chain tensioner. When I did the intermediate shaft bushing I removed the timing chain tensioner, and when I reinstalled it I pushed the plunger all the way through the tensioner housing and reset it at the lowest point, then let the spring push it back into position when reinstalled. The detent spring was in place and functioning, and the tensioner was full of oil, which seems to indicate that the oil pressure assist is working well too.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

That's a heck of a lot better than some of the other options that were being considered as the source of the knock, that's for sure

Keeping fingers crossed down here too!

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Thanks Mach4.

So far so good on the delivery valve seals. Looking like that was the last of my pinging problem, but STILL keeping my fingers crossed. Other things have "fixed" it for awhile, only to return later.

I test drove this a couple days ago:

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 5-Speed Turbo Diesel

Almost pulled the trigger. Sure would be nice to just make a payment(which I'm essentially already doing) and drive.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

So you are saying that motor won't be going up for sale for cheap 😜

That price seems high for that truck. I would say closer to $10k. But if it has a warranty.

I've had my share of cummins trucks.

I just got a 95 3/4 ton single cab long bed. With a 5.9 gas motor. It has 220k on it, with 50k on the motor.

Honestly, I will get some crap on a diesel forum, but it was $3k. A diesel would be $10k.

It's getting close to 17 mpg. Diesels if properly maintained may get 20 mpg. But at those miles, you are looking at pump and injector wear. Maybe 18 mpg.

An IP is $1200. I long block gas motor is $1600. The whole thing.

I don't think I'll go back to diesel, unless it's a big tow rig completely dedicated. In which case a dually and 16 mpg with the Dana 80 in it. But no drop in economy when towing.

However, if you get a second gen, hit me up. I know those trucks well. I just found the steering upgrade bushing. Necessary in all of them.

So let me see if I've got this straight.... you want to swap a truck that's paid for and pretty well sorted out and that you now know inside and out for a different truck with 200k plus miles, an unknown set of new problems and a loan payment to boot.

Well OK...we'll miss you here on the old forum!

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

That is essentially the discussion I had with myself. Between that and a couple other important points, sums up why I did NOT pull the trigger.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap