Does anybody know what engines will fit in a w201 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

iamtheosprey · #1 12-11-2014, 08:00 PM

...if any year gasoline engine will bolt up to my 1984 190D 2.2L with a manual transmission?

If I find a donor car I guess I could get the transmission too if it won't but I'd prefer to keep the five speed if possible.

The engine I have now has 272K miles on it and burns almost as much oil as it does diesel.

I also can't find a good cheap 2.2 to replace it with.

I also suspect but haven't yet confirmed that I may need a really early engine for whatever reason.

This one was built 11/83 and apparently at some point early 1984 model year they changed something up.

Also, my local wrench-a-part has a 190 with a gas engine that IIRC was good.

Do you think the engine mounts will work?

What other issues might I need to address?

ECU?

vstech · #2 12-11-2014, 08:13 PM

I think you need to pull a 2.3/2.6 gasser motor to install... the 16v cosworth would also fit... but you'd need an entire vehicle to get the harness, the computer, the dashboard, the mount arms, etc, etc...
find a diesel motor, or replace the head gasket that's using the oil on your car.

you have no idea the quantum level of requirements to get a gasser installed in your car.

ChrisArnt · #3 12-11-2014, 08:15 PM

I know the answer to the question I'm about to ask. Why would you do that? Answer. Because you want to.

There's a mid 80s gasser with some hot***** 16 valve motor and a cosgrove transmission. Whatever that means.

I've seen them go cheap on ebay if they are rusty.

I don't know if the motor would bolt on or if you could swap the drivetrain or you could just buy one of those.

I read some commentary on it and they said it gave the BMWs of the day a run for their money.

capflya · #4 12-11-2014, 08:41 PM

Cosworth... Cosgrove is an employee on the "South Beach Tow" TV show

Cosworth is a performance engineering group that has been around for decades. The 190E 2.3-16 is all we saw here in the states and is a pretty slick little w201.

iamtheosprey · #5 12-12-2014, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I think you need to pull a 2.3/2.6 gasser motor to install... the 16v cosworth would also fit... but you'd need an entire vehicle to get the harness, the computer, the dashboard, the mount arms, etc, etc...
find a diesel motor, or replace the head gasket that's using the oil on your car.

you have no idea the quantum level of requirements to get a gasser installed in your car.

Well...that's a question I asked in a prior thread.

So a head gasket can cause the engine to burn oil?

I'm talking two to three quarts per 130 miles on my last trip.

There is some blowby out the oil filler hole but none from the dipstick if that matters.

I know the head gasket is leaking oil down the side of the block but most of the oil is burned...or at least sent out the exhaust.

I have a really oily patch on my bumper above the tailpipe.

(I've been doing some shopping for head gaskets. Does anybody know if there is a noticeable difference between Victor Reinz or ElringKlinger?)

w123fanman · #6 12-12-2014, 02:03 AM

6010104620 and 6010104720 are the parts numbers I see from the dealer. One is $103 and the other is $40 through a discount OEM site run by MB South Atlanta, called mymercedesparts (hopefully not blocked as Pelican does not have OM601 head gasket kits). In order to know which you need, you need to find your engine number, easiest way to do that is with the VIN.

The footnote in the EPC says 4620 is for up to engine '921 10/50 001766' and '921 12/52 004599' so any engine after that is 4720.

If you go aftermarket, Reinz is usually good but I think most people on here prefer Elring.

iamtheosprey · #7 12-12-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w123fanman

6010104620 and 6010104720 are the parts numbers I see from the dealer. One is $103 and the other is $40 through a discount OEM site run by MB South Atlanta, called mymercedesparts (hopefully not blocked as Pelican does not have OM601 head gasket kits). In order to know which you need, you need to find your engine number, easiest way to do that is with the VIN.

The footnote in the EPC says 4620 is for up to engine '921 10/50 001766' and '921 12/52 004599' so any engine after that is 4720.

If you go aftermarket, Reinz is usually good but I think most people on here prefer Elring.

Thanks for the help.

I saw that this site didn't have what I needed so I went to an old faithful supplier and found everything including the head bolts.

Previous owner left his FSM with the car so I've already studied up on the procedure and will probably get started next weekend.

Is eighteen head bolts normal for a four cylinder engine?

Also, I found the engine number using a pictogram in the FSM.

It's easy once you find it but until you do you feel like you're looking for a needle in a haystack.

On this engine the number is on a piece of the engine that looks like a bracket right behind the screw-on fuel filter.

You just have to lean over the engine a bit and I used a flash light but it was dark out.

While I have everything apart I have noticed that my IP is leaking under the injector lines.

On my '93 300D I seem to recall that there was a copper crush washer in there? Or was it an o-ring? Either way I'm leaking fuel there and I'd like to get it fixed.

gatorblue92 · #8 12-12-2014, 01:04 PM

Personally I would only use a dealer head gasket. Some guys have reported the M103 VictorReinz gaskets are failing within 10k miles.

w123fanman · #9 12-12-2014, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamtheosprey

Thanks for the help.

I saw that this site didn't have what I needed so I went to an old faithful supplier and found everything including the head bolts.

Previous owner left his FSM with the car so I've already studied up on the procedure and will probably get started next weekend.

Is eighteen head bolts normal for a four cylinder engine?

Also, I found the engine number using a pictogram in the FSM.

It's easy once you find it but until you do you feel like you're looking for a needle in a haystack.

On this engine the number is on a piece of the engine that looks like a bracket right behind the screw-on fuel filter.

You just have to lean over the engine a bit and I used a flash light but it was dark out.

While I have everything apart I have noticed that my IP is leaking under the injector lines.

On my '93 300D I seem to recall that there was a copper crush washer in there? Or was it an o-ring? Either way I'm leaking fuel there and I'd like to get it fixed.

The leak under the lines is your delivery valve seals, I am about to do mine. There are o-rings and copper crush washers, you can get them from that same site for pretty cheap. The best resource to look up parts numbers if you don't have the EPC is MBpartsworld, they have all of the diagrams you need.

The two seals for the IP you need are 0019973440 and 0179974148. You need 4 of each but I would grab a couple of extras just incase you drop and lose one or something. They are cheap.

To do the job, you have to have a special 32 spline socket, you can rent it from the tool rental section of the forum or buy it, it's not too expensive for the LASER version. i also bought a 14mm injector line wrench from LASER that helps get the injector lines off but it isn't necessary, at least that I know of.

sixto · #10 12-13-2014, 03:23 PM

Gasser engine swap = get a complete donor car because you'll need lots of bits that don't normally come with a wrecking yard long block.

Yup, these Diesels have 6 bolts around each cylinders vs 4 in the typical gasser.

The 'bracket' into which the engine number is etched is the part of the block the IP attaches to.

I wouldn't do the delivery valve seals and head gasket at the same time. Get one done and sorted then attack the next. Fewer variables make it a lot easier to figure out why it cranks but won't start after you put it back together.

Sixto
MB-less

leathermang · #11 12-13-2014, 05:09 PM

If the head gasket is the problem...
there are some generic things to research before putting it back on...
be sure the head is flat..check that your block top is flat.... if not then have it surfaced by a good machine shop..
find out what the order of torquing the bolts is from the FSM...
do that IN order in several steps... be sure you have run a tap into the holes first.. they must be clean and lightly oiled for your torque reading to be meaningful. Bolts of course must be wired brushed before installing... cleanliness is everything.... and even take down is everything to a head gasket lasting...Use the proper head gasket cement OR NOT... depending on the instructions which come WITH the head gasket..
oh... and both surfaces being put together... must be so clean you can eat off of them... after scrapping whatever is on there... you use acetone or lacquer thinner to wipe the surface with paper towels.. small areas... until you get NO color coming from the surface....

strelnik · #12 12-13-2014, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamtheosprey

Well...that's a question I asked in a prior thread.

So a head gasket can cause the engine to burn oil?

I'm talking two to three quarts per 130 miles on my last trip.

There is some blowby out the oil filler hole but none from the dipstick if that matters.

I know the head gasket is leaking oil down the side of the block but most of the oil is burned...or at least sent out the exhaust.

I have a really oily patch on my bumper above the tailpipe.

(I've been doing some shopping for head gaskets. Does anybody know if there is a noticeable difference between Victor Reinz or ElringKlinger?)

Where do you live?
You could get a fairly good 2.5l Turbo diesel from a car in Millington, maybe 100 k miles.

EDBSO · #13 12-13-2014, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisArnt

I know the answer to the question I'm about to ask. Why would you do that? Answer. Because you want to.

There's a mid 80s gasser with some hot***** 16 valve motor and a cosgrove transmission. Whatever that means.

I've seen them go cheap on ebay if they are rusty.

I don't know if the motor would bolt on or if you could swap the drivetrain or you could just buy one of those.

I read some commentary on it and they said it gave the BMWs of the day a run for their money.

One of the few cars I slightly regret selling 1989 190E2.316V Cosworth