There's a lady selling her 84 300td. It looks like it's in good shape. She says it runs great. Only thing she's had done is new injectors and front brakes. I like it! She's asking $3000. Seems good to me, maybe get it for $2500? 198,000 miles. I will check it out in more detail soon. I will also contact the shop she has taken it to for some inside information. What should I check? I have a 1980 300cd, so I am somewhat familiar with these cars. How about the wagons? Anything special? How about MPG? Any help would be appreciated. andy

UGH, THOSE WAGONS ARE UGLY.. WHY WOULD YOU WANT ONE OF THOSE ? Send me this woman's name and phone number and I will explain to her what a shame it would be to pawn off such an ugly car on a nice unsuspecting guy like you.... The rear suspensions are an expensive mystery, the batteries tend to eat the firewall out, but what do I know ? Just send me her number..... Greg

Great sarcasim leathermag! Send me that womans name also. The rear leveling suspension, the window regulators, the sunroof drains, and floorpan rust have all been big items on my wagon. Be sure to check under the carpets and in the trunk for floorpan problems. I get around a contstant 27MPG, but I have a lead foot and thats a mix of city and highway driving.

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Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

OK, OK, you caught me. My wagon got 27 mpg at 70 out on the road... which thrilled me because I had no idea it might be capable of that...the window regulators deal... I don't know if the problems are more than other cars of that age, but two of mine don't work.....I avoid sunroofs like the plague, so don't know about those....but go ahead and send me her address, just for grins.... LOL.. Greg

The only real difference between your CD and a TD is the leveling system. With about 250-300 pounds wieghting down the backend and the engine running at high idle, the backend should come up to level again. The leveling system is pretty reliable, it's the aircells that go bad over time. I recently replaced mine at $71 a piece. As for fuel economy, I average 27 mpg in combo driving. I also use PS diesel additive. Since you have an '80 CD, the you will appreciate the turbo-diesel on the TD. Back to the leveling sys., the fluid is supposed to be changed out every year. You will find the bottle, looking at the engine, on your left in front of the radiator overflow bottle. The sys. holds about 3.5 quarts of special hydraulic fluid. Another thing you might check is the struts that hold up the rear hatch. The are mounted horizontally into the roof. The previous owner of my TD had them replaced at a local delaer, but I am sure it is a simple job. If you do buy the car, you will love the utility these cars have. BTW I paid $2900 for mine and it had 181K on it, with recent a/c compressor replacement.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

I suggest you do a search for hydro pneumatic suspension (rear leveling system). It exists on the TD (rear only) and the 6.9. There are some lengthy threads that will explain the issues and procedures in great detail and folks will help you with it. If the whole system is bad (very good chance if it has never been touched with that milage) it can be very expensive if done by a shop. You really have to do it yourself. First thing -- when you look at the car does it sag in the back? Go over some bad road... do your teeth rattle? If the hydro system is in good shape this car rides like a dream. Ditto on the sun roof drains and hatch shocks.

I have an 80 wag and love it.You should know that the engine block on the wagon is diffrent than on the sedan.It will make a used block very hard to find.But Its priced right,and is one of the great mercedes

Per records and inspection: If the hydropneumatic suspension has been well maintained and doesn't sag, BUT the car still rides hard while sitting in the back, it's more than likely the rear shocks. -- Been there done that. -- I was relieved to replace the shocks instead of having to go through the whole rear susp. on my 126. I always loved the wagons btw... good luck!

True the shocks are pricey -- about a grand for the pair. I take the above comments back Didn't realize the spheres were cheaper. I'd imagine the price tag would be closer if you took it to a shop, with labor costs.

Regarding the ride, mine did not sag (at least not much). The ride in the back seat was bone jarring and I took it in and had rear speheres inspected -- A-OK and the shocks were found to be the culprit. The system was bled as well -- Now the car rides smooth as butta'

Thanks for all of the responses. I noticed that the car does not sag. I saw her driving down the road and did not notice any smoke upon acceleration. I don't think it has a sunroof. I need to call her up so I can look at the car in detail and drive it. I could really use the extra space right now. If it looks good I might convince my dad to buy it. I'm just worried about some big hydraulic expense. Thanks, andy