Hi, I am looking at a 300d 1977. The kid is asking 1,500 for it. It has many little things that do not work. Broken odometer, cruise, one window doesn't go up, parking brake cable; hood won't stay up, ac compressor. It needs brakes pads and new tires. However it cranked right up, drove very well, didn't pull at all, and the transmission was suprisingly smooth. The guy is 22 and doesn't seem to know much about cars at all, other than keeping the fluid levels correct. He told me that the car was given to him by a family friend, and he has no records. I offered 500 for the car if the mechanic gives the engine and trannie, half shafts etc. the green light. It also has no rust, he moved here from Texas.

What do you think? Am I on the verge of a decent fixer upper/daily driver, or a headache the size of Texas? It's passed emissions already, but is it a Euro if it isn't a turbo? Does this mean it is more difficult to get parts for? Let me know what you think. It certainly needs work. But even in the shape it's in now, I'm sure it would drive fine with new brakes/tires. I would love to find a diesel and just see how long I can keep it going. It shows 215k on the clock, and he says that the engine was replaced with a rebuild right before he got it, then the odometer went out. So who knows how many miles?

Your opinions are all greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks!!!

Jason

$550-$1000 sounds about right. Expect to spend that much to get everything in tip-top shape also. If it is from 1977 it should NOT be a turbo. They didn't start in the sedans till 82 I think. You can tell if it is a euro if it has euro headlights (instead of sealed beams), manual windows, manual climate controls, and cloth seats. My guess is it's not. Sounds like a good deal to me. Good luck!

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Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

No, it must not be a euro then. Thanks.
jj

Well Jason, if you have a well-running 300D for $1500 that isn't dying of rust, then yes you usually have a good deal. Bulletproof transportation rarely comes at such a cheap price.

That being said, I too purchased a '77 at just about what yours may cost which also had a recent (past 6kmi) engine and (supposedly) tranny rebuild (though it's been shifting funny lately). In the previous year-and-a-half, I've spent over $2k to rebuild the entire braking system to brand new (it needed it badly), replaced much of the front end suspension and misc other things, and there still are handful (and not too cheap) of things to go.

So like the saying goes, nothing's more expensive than a cheap Benz I could have shopped for a more expensive, better maintained example and probably saved alot of repair bills. Bear in mind however, I wanted something to tinker on and didn't get it inspected before buying either - I just gave her a good look-over and a couple test drives.

If the PPI comes back clean I'd go for it - though be warned that the early W123's Climate Control system is very prone to problems usually centering around the AC servo which is a $350 part. Not sure how important the AC will be for you.

Also, you'll want to upgrade to the later W123, pencil-type glow plugs if you want it to start well in those cold Rocky Mtn. winters. That's about all I can think of.

Good luck, let us know what you do!

Regards,
- Ryan

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'95 E420 - 'Shadowfax' 138kmi.
'92 Volvo 740Turbo Bard 193kmi
'74 240D - 'Ol' Green' 4spd Manual 104kmi. (sold )
'77 300D - 'Red' 223kmi (sold)
'75 240D - 'Bianca the Blue Bomber' (sold)

I have a 1977 300D, 182,000 miles, that I purchased from my Father, original owner.

Comments on climate control, vacuum system are correct. However, I have put 20,000 miles on the car in less than a year and have only spent about $700 on repair and maintenance. (biggest ticket item was new shocks, most time consuming -- new motor mounts)

For me, there is no more classic and bullet proof car. PS, without the turbo, it is slow on the take off, but you get used to it.

Go for it,

JCD

The '77 300D is a great car, But I'm biased!! If you can do the labor yourself, then with a good shop manual (Haynes and M-B), the info on this forum, then the repairs you mentioned can be done reasonably. Parts from Fast Lane at good prices and the salvage yard for M-B only parts will keep that end of the repair cost down. That said, the PPI will tell you a lot.

The early 300D's were slow from a stop. The auto trans starts off in 2nd gear. You can manually make the trans start in 1st gear by moving the selector lever to L or you can depress the accelerator pedal to the floor to engage the kick-down switch to make the trans shift to 1st. Personally, I shift the trans with the lever to start in 1st gear. When running the AC you will really want to use 1st gear to start, otherwise it will take a while to get moving.

Another area to look at is the injection pump. The early 300D's had a problem with a copper sealing washer that you should replace (M-B made three modifications to this sealing washer before getting it right). The bad sealing washer would allow high pressure diesel to escape and the result was not as much power (actually, the injection pump was trying to send pressurized diesel to two injection nozzles at the same time robbing power). Replacing the copper sealing washers is simple, but messy since all the diesel in the IP will drain out and then the IP will need to be primed with the priming pump before you can start the engine.

That said, the 300D is built like a tank and will last a long time with regular maintenance (oil/filter changes at 3,000 mi. using a good diesel rated 15W-40 oil - Chevron Delo 400 at $5.28 per gal. at Wal Mart can't be beat - air filter changes, adjust valves 10,000-15,000 mi. or once a year, coolant level correct, change the brake fluid immediately and then once a year, good belts & hoses, etc., etc.).

Consumer Reports rated the early 300D's as a best buy for a used car for several years based on reliabilty, repair cost minimal, safety, quality, and other factors.

Good Luck!
Tom

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America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
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