Hi everyone...

This morning, after sitting a while, it started, ran for about 2 seconds, but right when I took my foot off the gas it died instantly and now it turns over (perfectly fine), but won't start. It sputters faintly depending on how I hit the gas, but won't start running at all. I can smell the diesel fumes.

I've checked the glow plug fuse, and it's good (it's hot). The connectors are on. The glow plug lights and goes off normally the first few times I turn the key on. I've loosened the nuts on top of the injectors, as someone instructed, and cranked the engine til fuel leaked out of all of them, then retightened. Still nothing.

The only issue I can think of is I have the old original primer pump, but I've never seen it leak (except for when I pump it -- then fuel comes out of the top).

Any tips? Thanks!!!!!!

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1980 300SD (daily driver), 1981 300D (Inca Red)

Replaced the fuel filters recently?

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 142k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

The only two things a diesel engine needs to stay running is fuel and compression. We know it has compression since you did have it running. i would look at the fuel filters they could be plugged if that doesnt fix it crack one of the fuel lines loose to see if the injector pump is working and the injectors are getting fuel.

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'85 F250 6.9L diesel 2wd XL XC LB Centurion, Gone
'95 Mercedes E 300 Diesel W124.131 with a OM606.910 and just over 200k on the clock, needs top end engine work and a transmission.
2000 S500 W220 with a 5.0L V8 gas power.

Well, it usually won't leak when it is screwed down
but it will suck in air.
I think if you replace it you should be good to go.
The newer style you don't need to unscrew to
prime the fuel system.

Louis.

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Not always the smartest but certainly not dumb?

Had the exact problem with my '85 300D on Thursday afternoon. The car started, ran for a second, died. I could get it to sputter if I held my foot to the floor, but it wouldn't idle and even with the skinny pedal pegged, it was a bad time.

Had it towed to an indy I'd been meaning to visit about 2 miles from my office. I pass by him every day. I called, told him I thought it seemed like a fuel issue but couldn't find a fuse for the fuel pump. Was advised it's not an electronic pump, and the filters were most likely clogged. His gopher swapped the two engine bay filters right in front of me and the car idled beautifully.

I'll pick the car up on Monday afternoon once they get the tank filter (screen) replaced to complete the whole deal.

haven't changed the filters for a long time. But it seems so strange that it would suddenly exhibit this -- you'd think it would slowly degrade, but it was running fine last time it was running, no issues at all, and now nothing.

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1980 300SD (daily driver), 1981 300D (Inca Red)

I was driving mine around town with a coworker for a few hours in the morning. No issues at all. When I got back into the car around 2:00PM, the stalling started.

A couple years ago, fuel filters were three months or so old, I filled up the tank drove about five miles and car abruptly stopped. I changed the filters on the roadside and made it home. The next day it would not start, changed the filters again, ran fine. Drained the tank didn't see anything real obvious but no problems after that. Did you change your filling station, and possibly got some sediment from a low volume source?

No, I didn't change anything, really. I don't know what would have happened. But, I suspect the obvious thing to do at this point is to change the fuel filters. I will start with the small one, and then move on to the big one if I need to do that. If that doesn't work, I'll order a new primer pump and see if that helps. Agreed?

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1980 300SD (daily driver), 1981 300D (Inca Red)

Most brands of the primary filter (the plastic filter) are clear. Shine a light through it and you will be able to see if it has crud in it, or water floating in it. If it's one of the semi-opaque brands, like Bosch, then just change it.

Check that all your fuel hose clamps are tight, including the short length of hose between the primary filter and the lift pump body. That gets forgotten and can get loose or the hose simply wears out and cracks, letting in air.

You have to change the primer pump, for the reason explained by another answer in this thread. If it leaks fuel any time, it means it can also suck in air.

Unless your filters are more than a year old, or you just filled up, or added an additive to the fuel, I would suspect the primer pump.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

You may want to get a new primer in any case.

As mentioned, filters and tank screen, or an air leak is the probable cause.

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83 SD

84 CD

Update: This morning I started to change the small plastic filter. It is the translucent type, and as I looked at it I remembered that I did change it a few years (and not many miles) ago. When I removed the exit hose from it, fuel poured out smoothly and freely, so I reconnected it, thinking it's fine. I did not remove the canister filter since I don't have a replacement. I then checked hose clamps and found some that were loose. Tightened them.

I decided to do some glow plug relay checking. I had a helper sit in the car and turn it on and she noted that the glow plug light illuminated. I tested the voltage at the glow plugs and all of them read about 9v between the tips of the glow plugs and the valve cover (I wonder why not 12?), and continued to read that long after the orange dashboard light went off.

Still won't start and no change. I guess my next step is to order the primer and a canister filter, and change them all.

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1980 300SD (daily driver), 1981 300D (Inca Red)

The glowplugs do not operate at 12v, somewhere around 10.5-11v. However, the valve cover is not a good ground, that is probably why you saw the low voltage reading. Ideally you need to ground to the negative battery cable.

The fact that the glowplugs are getting voltage doesn't mean they aren't worn out or defective. What brand are they and how old?

You can check the glowplugs using an OHM meter. It isn't 100 percent reliable but it should give you an idea if the GPs are working.

Mercedes Diesel Glow Plug Repair

When you try to start the car, are you smelling the unburned diesel out the tailpipe? If you are getting fuel, it should stink from the cranking and you may see a small cloud of unburned fuel.

If that is not happening, then you are sucking air and the primer pump seems like the first suspect in this case.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Thanks, Zacharias.

I did notice the smell of diesel the other day but not today, though that could be that the wind was blowing the other way. I haven't checked that specifically but I will do so. Also, cranking while the oil fill cover on the valve cover is removed produces visible puffs of vapor (can't be smoke at this point) out the top as I crank.

As for the glow plugs, they all test good resistance, less than 1 ohm. They're Bosch, and I believe (but can't remember) that I changed them out a few years ago.

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1980 300SD (daily driver), 1981 300D (Inca Red)

That will mess you up big time. My 1991 has one.