Hi all
So I would like to replace my oil cooler lines since my motor is getting swapped out, but I seem to be having a hard time finding the part, at least not ones that are $500.00 my lines in there now are hard to see to tell what shape there in, the car has 200,000 miles on it ,but has been garaged and is in really nice shape

We don't know what car you have.

I just rebuilt the oil cooler lines in my 1984 300D because out for a weld repair. I used -12 AC reduced barrier hose (5/8"D) as have others. I have an AC crimper, but Oeticker clamps might work better anyway. I cut the top hose 15"L (1" longer than factory) so it better clears the p.s. pulley.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

This topic has been discussed at length and there are plenty of options, opinions and back and forth. Here's a good place to start your research -

https://www.google.com/#q=site:peachparts.com+oil+cooler+lines

And my personal favorite -

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Sorry i blasted off a few posts there my car is a 92 124 602 ,

If it is a 300D from the 1980-85 there is several long threads and a bunch of choices.

But, before removing the Oil Cooler Hoses from the Oil Cooler you ought to read up on the few ways available to keep the Hose Nut from stripping the Aluminum Oil Cooler Threads and also note that there is a repair if that happens.

That happened to me on one of the Oil Cooler Nipples.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Dang those braided steel lines look awesome,but i dont think i could make those and if they fail...but i did find that name of trucktec so ill look into them

This is the search Mach4 did, but clicked on the Images tab.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:peachparts.com+oil+cooler+lines&biw=985&bih=657&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI0Kr-4_eLxwIVxaCACh36rgWI&dpr=1.3

I did a set on my 85 300d similar to what mach4 did, but used Parker Push-Loc hose. I did have the same screw on ends welded to the pipes.

Charlie

sent from my pos computer

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Taking the originals to a hydraulic hose shop got me much stronger hoses for less $$$.

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Greg Schwall

1983 300SD - 465,000 miles

And note that some report problems with tructec but that is one of the commonly available brands. I'm going to do the mod Mach came up with. Easier and cheaper in the long run. How long are you going to have the car? I'm trying to fix and keep mine.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

On mine cut the crimped Collars off and changed only the Hose part. I used 2 quality us made wormgear type clamps on each hose end to remove any doubts that the hose was going to slip off.

After 4-5 years of use I noticed one of the Hoses ends was slightly wet (but not dripping) and replaced both Hose only and used Wrom Gear Clamps on the one end and Oetiker Clamps on the Cooler end of the Hose.

Oetiker type Clamps are used as a direct relacement on AC Hoses and do the same job as the Crimped Collar does.

This sort of cronicles whad I did and over time.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/205012-cheap-oil-cooler-hose-replacement.html

The highest pressure that the hose is going to have to face is 110 psi. But, you need to find Hose that can take the Heat and is made for hot Oil. That is not to difficult.

Low Pressure Oil Cooler, Transmission Cooler and Hydraluic Hose can have 300psi working pressures. That is more then adequate.

One of the main no nos is steel braided hose and worm gear clamps. The steel braid intereres with the clamping force of the clamps.

But, like I said there is at least 3 Long Oil Cooler Hose threads with at least 5 ways to deal with the issue with out just buying Hoses.

The Trucktec Hoses have had issues with them not sealing on the Oil Cooler end.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

To elaborate my reply, I also first cut off the factory crimp collars (hacksaw across end, then thin cut-off wheel longitudinally, then screwdriver pry). Barrier AC hose "should work" since resistant to oil and high temperatures. I used "reduced -12" since smaller and I have a roll. The -10 "standard" dies in my MasterCool crimper fit the -12 reduced collars. Non-optimal is that my crimper makes 3 dents in the collar, whereas the M-B fittings want 2 dents. That is why I said Oeticker clamps might be better, and a good option for someone without a crimper.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Thanks for all the replies
My uncle and I (he is helping with the engine swap at his place) were talking about this this morning, he has had hoses for his tractors front loader made at napa, do you guys think this is an option? S o what weares out on these oil lines? Is it the rubber hose part? Could I salvage the fittings from my old hose to use on new hoses made from new rubber hose? Sorry if theses are dumb questions I have never messed with theses hoses before

Thanks

Kenny

Yeah, I replaced my oil lines a few months ago, and could only get the lower oil line from Trucktec.
Like Diesel911 said, the quality on those is questionable, so avoid them if at all possible. I ended up having to do the job twice, because the first Trucktec line leaked at the oil cooler end. And with the engine in the car, you really don't want to do this terrible job twice. Once is plenty enough...

The second Trucktec line is holding up fine currently, but ....*knock on wood*, I don't trust it very much and check for leakage frequently (at every fuel fill-up).

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

My issue with using the stock fittings and 5/8' hose is that the 5/8" that I found seems too big and calculations indicate a significant difference. Is my memory correct that the stock hose is 15mm?

5/8 = 15.875mm .875mm = .344" which is significant.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I've now got 90k on my stainless braided hose. And if they do fail, just buy new hose - the hose ends are reusable...and don't even have to touch the hard lines. Probably a 20 minute job.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica