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#1
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'82 240d IP issues! advice needed!
Hey all,
So i just bought a 1982 240d. I bought it not running for $700. the rubber lines going from the hard line to the canister filter were shot so there was a ton of air in the lines. replaced those and bled the system with the primer pump till the supply line for the Ip had no air bubbles and I had a "squishing" sound. I then cracked the hard injector lines at the injectors and cranked the car. I only was ever able to get fuel to come out of one injector (closest to cab of car). I took off the hard lines and made sure they werent plugged and still coulnt get diesel to the three other injectors. I would assume that this means their is an issue with the injector pump. AM i right in this thinking? Is there something else i should check? thanks in advance |
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#2
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-- BUMP --
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
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#3
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Maybe an IP issue, maybe you just need to crank it longer. When you get fuel to the #4 injector, tighten up the line so it doesn't leak and keep cranking. A system that has lost its prime can take a lot of cranking to get it going. IP failures are rare, but if you suspect that the car has used vegetable oil or "bio diesel" or something other than plain old ULSD #2 diesel or real honest-to-God ASTM spec bio diesel, then the IP is suspect.
Disable the glow plug relay while you crank (remove the fuse) to conserve battery power and get faster cranking. How much fuel in the fuel tank? How does the clear pre-filter look? Think about rigging a temporary fuel tank at the engine bay filled with fresh clean fuel to eliminate any potential problems with the fuel lines or fuel tank (strainer).
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
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#4
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I have gone through one batt. charge of cranking thus far. I have it on the tender and hopefully will have time to try after work again.
Would it be a good idea to pull the glow plug so it can turn over easier? |
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#5
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Quote:
Plug in the block heater for 30 minutes or more prior, and leave it plugged in while you are trying to start. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while you crank. If #4 has fuel, leave that glow plug in and that cylinder may start firing as you crank, which will help turn the engine over faster.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
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#6
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Whas this a Car that has been unused for a long time?
Do you know if only Diesel Fuel has been used? Purchase a Battery Carger of have another Vehicle with Jumper Cables to recharge the Mercedes Battery and or jump the Battery while Starting. Repair Links Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html There is 2 types of Fuel Injection Pumps. If you have an MW type Fuel Injection Pump as in the Picture do not loosen the 13mm Nuts on each side if the Delivery Valve Holder. See post number 12 in the below thread and look at where the Arrows Point. Do not loosen those Nuts. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/338513-where-start-turbo-diagnostic.html Leave the Fuel Injection hard Lines off and let someone else crank the Enging while you pump on the Hand Primer. Keep your face abay from the possible squirting and do not abstruct any of the lines or ports coming out of the Fuel Injection pump with hands fingers or any other parts of your body as it will inject the Fuel into your body and the Fuel really messes you up. If a Fuel Injection hard Line happend to be completely plugged and Fuel comes out of the Fuel Injection Pump it ususally cracks or splits the Fuel Injection Hard Line.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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