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  #1  
Old 12-18-2015, 11:17 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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I found the location of the trunk leak.

There are two spots under the trunk seal that are rusted through. I think I can handle the repair but the replacement cost of the seal is ridiculous. The trunk seal is in excellent shape. It has no gaps, tears or even nicks.

Is there a way to remove the seal and reuse it after the rust is removed?

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  #2  
Old 12-18-2015, 02:42 PM
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The trunk in both my 300D's also leaks, but I don't see any rust-thrus in the gutters and strive to keep them clean. There isn't much slope to make the water run aft, which doesn't help. But, too much rain is the least of our concerns in CA. I have a black plastic liner to keep the carpet clean anyway, so just a few drops get on it.

You can get a long-handled "gasket scraper" that holds a single-edge razor blade at HF and elsewhere. If you don't tear and mangle it, 3M weather-strip adhesive (yellow, any auto parts) should re-secure it.
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  #3  
Old 12-18-2015, 03:04 PM
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Make sure the drains in the side wells are clear. If water pools in there it will cause condensation inside the trunk and make the leak seem much worse.
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  #4  
Old 12-18-2015, 03:11 PM
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You may be able to repair the area under the gutter and rubber seal itself. Depends what you find. Should not require removal of the rubber and is not the best repair but it could suffice.
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  #5  
Old 12-18-2015, 03:56 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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How about a solvent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
The trunk in both my 300D's also leaks, but I don't see any rust-thrus in the gutters and strive to keep them clean. There isn't much slope to make the water run aft, which doesn't help. But, too much rain is the least of our concerns in CA. I have a black plastic liner to keep the carpet clean anyway, so just a few drops get on it.

You can get a long-handled "gasket scraper" that holds a single-edge razor blade at HF and elsewhere. If you don't tear and mangle it, 3M weather-strip adhesive (yellow, any auto parts) should re-secure it.
Any chance a denatured alcohol or other solvent would cut the glue without damaging the seal. I think I can get the stuff under the rubber without getting much on the paint.

I wouldn't expect to cut the glue with a scraper or blade. Either would gnaw at the rubber.
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  #6  
Old 12-18-2015, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orv View Post
Make sure the drains in the side wells are clear. If water pools in there it will cause condensation inside the trunk and make the leak seem much worse.
Where might these drains be located? You're talking about in the low part on either side of the trunk where I store my bottles of various fluids?
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2015, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Where might these drains be located? You're talking about in the low part on either side of the trunk where I store my bottles of various fluids?
Yes, but you must remove the plastic liners to see them. They roll out fairly easy once you learn the tricks, though the driver's side one is trickier w/ the sunroof tube.

They are little rubber caps w/ ~4 small holes that fit in the bottom of the floor. You can fold them out. It just takes a little tree debris, like small round fruits to plug them and leave a foot of water in the trunk, like my 1984 had when I bought it, causing mildew throughout the interior.
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  #8  
Old 12-20-2015, 10:13 AM
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While often reluctant to choose URO parts, I installed a URL trunk seal in my 220D about two years ago and it has held up well so far. Think the seal cost about $30.
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2015, 03:07 PM
Shadetree
 
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Location: Back in SC upstate
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I appreciate that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTD View Post
While often reluctant to choose URO parts, I installed a URL trunk seal in my 220D about two years ago and it has held up well so far. Think the seal cost about $30.
There's noting wrong with the original seal. I think it would be a downgrade to change it right now.

I'm just trying to find a solvent that will help with the glue without damaging the rubber much.
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2015, 03:41 PM
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If you find a solvent to remove the glue that was applied 30 something years ago.
I betcha it will take the paint along with it.

Charlie

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