new car=new problems

[oldiesel]

Picked up my new to me 97 e300d today and before i got home have check engine light and code p0200 and p0600 scanned with my pretty old "Autoenginuity"scanner.have tried a search and didnt get anywhere nothing found try different words.Have not been able to find shop manual for this car yet so i am at a loss.
Being the first i have driven this car it seemed to be performing ok and no different after the warning than before.I was cruising along at 60 and accelerated to pass a slower truck and as i was pulling back in the right lane warning "check engine electronics" came on.I had another 20 miles or so to go and car ran fine shifting smooth ect;
Checked codes and cleared mil but it came right back on.I noticed that there is a vacuum device where the big rubber hose from the air cleaner attaches to the intake crossover and with the engine at idle it swings back and forth like a puppy wagging it tail ?
I am at a loss not having a manual and being used to my 87 wagon.
Any ideas will be very much appreciated.
TIA Don

[Skid Row Joe]

EGR? Intake needs cleaning?

[oldiesel]

Thanks for the quick reply Joe.the egr and the tube from the manifold to the valve look brand new but i will give that a look,Thanks for the help Don

[Skid Row Joe]

Main fuel filter? -But that would act as a "starved-for-fuel" symptom in acceleration.....

I started changing-out my 99 E300's main-filter every 10K miles - to stay ahead of that issue. Because my 83 300SD's main had displayed the "starved-for-fuel" symptom @ around 10K - I was on-the-road in Birmingham, AL., and had to change it out at the motel - so, I started the 10K regimen.

[Stretch]

Petrol engined Mercedes + weird electical **** going on => often means dodgy earth points. Although this might be a wild goose chase checking, cleaning and tightening / sealing in grease all of your earth points might save you some time in the long run.

[bsmuwk]

These cars are a lot easier to work on than W124's. Having owned nearly 15 W124's and countless W210's, I favor W124's for build and W210's for tinkering.
Okay you have some digging to do - these are fairly simple engines when it comes to vacuum related components.

There are a few intake resonance flaps that are vacuum operated throughout the cars rev range.

P0200 is an "injector circuit malfunction" which will be one of the following:
Fuel quantity actuator (Y23/1) HHTP1220
Fuel rack position sensor (Y23/1/1) HHT P1223
Shifting induction pip switchover valve (Y22/6) HHT P1475
Resonance intake line switchover valve (Y22/7) HHT P1476
Engine control Module (IFI) (N3/7)Or Fuel metering actuator (Y23/1k1) or fuel rack position sensor (Y23/1/1) HHTP1614
Engine control Module (IFI) (N3/7)Not properly coded. HHTP1617

What you'll learn is that the code generally doesn't have anything to do with anything injection related. The code is most likely being thrown by one of the flaps not operating correctly (not hitting limit switches do to soot) or vacuum leaks. Do yourself a favor before spending obnoxious amounts of money: Remove the entire intake system and clean it thoroughly! Apply vacuum to every flap and make sure they're not sticking and that they hold a vacuum.

That flap by the EGR is generally activated at idle. It closes for a bit to stop fresh air flow so the system sucks in EGR recirculated air instead. If it's not working properly, you may get the CEL for EGR or what you have, P0200. There are two more flaps - one in the crossover tube and one in the bottom center of the intake, often times these get stopped up and will throw your code.

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! Renew your vacuum lines at the same time. This entire fix is generally free cleaning (material cost) and a couple bucks for vacuum line.

If you were near me I could hook your car up to the HHT and show you for sure. Here's a boring video of me hooking up and going through some diagnosis for resonance flap stuff on my own 97 E300.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiTOBHO8nRM

As for P0600, is K40 relay problems I think. I don't know where my fault book is so if I figure that one out I'll let you know. lol

Originally Posted by Stretch

Petrol engined Mercedes + weird electical **** going on => often means dodgy earth points. Although this might be a wild goose chase checking, cleaning and tightening / sealing in grease all of your earth points might save you some time in the long run.

It's a diesel Stretch!

[Dan Stokes]

Originally Posted by bsmuwk

These cars are a lot easier to work on than W124's. Having owned nearly 15 W124's and countless W210's, I favor W124's for build and W210's for tinkering.
Okay you have some digging to do - these are fairly simple engines when it comes to vacuum related components.

There are a few intake resonance flaps that are vacuum operated throughout the cars rev range.

P0200 is an "injector circuit malfunction" which will be one of the following:
Fuel quantity actuator (Y23/1) HHTP1220
Fuel rack position sensor (Y23/1/1) HHT P1223
Shifting induction pip switchover valve (Y22/6) HHT P1475
Resonance intake line switchover valve (Y22/7) HHT P1476
Engine control Module (IFI) (N3/7)Or Fuel metering actuator (Y23/1k1) or fuel rack position sensor (Y23/1/1) HHTP1614
Engine control Module (IFI) (N3/7)Not properly coded. HHTP1617

What you'll learn is that the code generally doesn't have anything to do with anything injection related. The code is most likely being thrown by one of the flaps not operating correctly (not hitting limit switches do to soot) or vacuum leaks. Do yourself a favor before spending obnoxious amounts of money: Remove the entire intake system and clean it thoroughly! Apply vacuum to every flap and make sure they're not sticking and that they hold a vacuum.

That flap by the EGR is generally activated at idle. It closes for a bit to stop fresh air flow so the system sucks in EGR recirculated air instead. If it's not working properly, you may get the CEL for EGR or what you have, P0200. There are two more flaps - one in the crossover tube and one in the bottom center of the intake, often times these get stopped up and will throw your code.

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! Renew your vacuum lines at the same time. This entire fix is generally free cleaning (material cost) and a couple bucks for vacuum line.

If you were near me I could hook your car up to the HHT and show you for sure. Here's a boring video of me hooking up and going through some diagnosis for resonance flap stuff on my own 97 E300.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiTOBHO8nRM

As for P0600, is K40 relay problems I think. I don't know where my fault book is so if I figure that one out I'll let you know. lol





It's a diesel Stretch!

This is the kind of great input that makes this forum so great! Even though I don't have a horse in this race, thanks for a wonderful and thoughtful answer - it enriches us all.

Dan

[MTUpower]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Petrol engined Mercedes + weird electical **** going on => often means dodgy earth points. Although this might be a wild goose chase checking, cleaning and tightening / sealing in grease all of your earth points might save you some time in the long run.

I think he's got a diesel.

edit
someone else responded - sorry for the double post.

[oldiesel]

Thanks for all the help! I have discovered that i have an intermittent alternator problem,from the way it acts it may be the regulator so i am going to change that first,if that does not help i do have a spare 120A one that i bought a long time ago for my wagon but never got around to using it.
Bsmuwk Thanks for the advice i think even the alt cures the problem i will still follow your information as its seems to be a good idea as many threads mention the manifold cleaning and at 150k miles its probably needed, Any suggestions as to where i might find some info on where these items are located?

[oldiesel]

Bsmuwk
I just watched your video and saw your egr occasionally moving,,when mine is moving it is as i said in the first post like a puppy dogs tail and about the speed of the dogs tail very rapidly,i dont have the video capability.My egr appears to be brand new so i guess i will have to look at what controls it. Thanks again for your help Don

[bsmuwk]

Originally Posted by oldiesel

Thanks for all the help! I have discovered that i have an intermittent alternator problem,from the way it acts it may be the regulator so i am going to change that first,if that does not help i do have a spare 120A one that i bought a long time ago for my wagon but never got around to using it.
Bsmuwk Thanks for the advice i think even the alt cures the problem i will still follow your information as its seems to be a good idea as many threads mention the manifold cleaning and at 150k miles its probably needed, Any suggestions as to where i might find some info on where these items are located?

I can't really help in regards to finding more info as I have books that I use.

Originally Posted by oldiesel

Bsmuwk
I just watched your video and saw your egr occasionally moving,,when mine is moving it is as i said in the first post like a puppy dogs tail and about the speed of the dogs tail very rapidly,i dont have the video capability.My egr appears to be brand new so i guess i will have to look at what controls it. Thanks again for your help Don

There's a MAP sensor on the drivers side firewall that has about a 5" vacuum line running to it from the end of the intake manifold, check to see if that's attached and/or has a hole.

There's a series of vacuum switch over valves just under the air intake pipe on the passenger side where the vacuum lines for the EGR and EGR resonance flap run down to, sometimes these can be switched.

If it's moving as quickly as a dog wagging it's tail, then you either have a vacuum leak somewhere, the switch over valves might be faulty (one of them atleast), or resonance flaps causing problems (computer fault).

Most of which can be fixed with some cleaning, vacuum refreshing and maybe a replacement switchover if it tests bad.

Would you be able to post a picture of your EGR? The correct replacement EGR's are around $7-800 so if the incorrect one is installed then the car won't know what to do.

[oldiesel]

Bsmuwk
cant send a picture till tomorrow,but the egr has the Mercedes star and the following numbers A0021402960 981166 7.21949.04 Peirburg (not too sure about the spelling )
also has new pipe connecting egr to the manifold. Don

[Stretch]

...sorry about the petrol tangent folks...

...but the more electrickery - the more weird ****!

[bsmuwk]

Originally Posted by oldiesel

Bsmuwk
cant send a picture till tomorrow,but the egr has the Mercedes star and the following numbers A0021402960 981166 7.21949.04 Peirburg (not too sure about the spelling )
also has new pipe connecting egr to the manifold. Don

You have the right one then, don't worry about the picture. If it IS new, seems like they've tried fixing this problem before you bought it. I would definitely start off doing an entire system cleaning and a vacuum line refresh to make sure everything is in order. Give yourself a solid baseline before proceeding.

I attached a vacuum diagram for the car in the post. There's a line running T'ing off from the brake booster area that runs across the engine bay to feed the EGR/Resonance flap switchover valves.

When folks don't know what they're doing and try doing an EGR delete on these motors, they oftentimes start removing or pinching off vacuum lines - worth a shot to test everything out. Switchover valve testing is easy, just power/ground.

[oldiesel]

Bsmuwk
Thank you for that diagram,its a big help! It will be a couple of days before i can get back at it.When i do i will revive this thread and post the results and anything i found along the way. Thanks for the link to your blog,lots of good info there for a 210 newbe like me Don