1979 300cd will not start, will not hit
I have added pencil plugs and relay set up
Valves adjusted perfect to specs on car
Battery is new and load tested
New alternator
New starter
Car just cranks and cranks and cranks
I checked timing marks on cam shafts with the lines matched up
The dial indicator on front of motor is between 0 and 10 going to the left.

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It says in the FSM that those marks on the cam are not to be trusted for this kind of thing... they are included on the cam for initial engine put together and only for ' correct quadrant'...
So I suggest you set the IP by using the drip method ... the preferred method listed in the FSM...
I do not know the general condition of your engine... so I do not know if the glow plugs are necessary to start it... but have you checked to see that they are functioning correctly ?
How long are you leaving the plug switch on before cranking ?
Did you clean out the gplug holes with a reamer before putting them in ?
why did you replace them ? If you have carbon in there in front of the g plugs it needs to be removed so the new ones do not short out....
You have done the other normal stuff...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Was it running before you changed the plugs and valve adjustment? Did you remove the hard fuel lines from the IP to injectors then bleed the lines?

Glow plugs were changed because I seen it on mercedes source.
Checked glow plugs with meter while in car.
Car was idling and just died when this problem started
Compression is 100 on all cylinders while cranking bit bleeds off fast

Yes I have bled the lines no it was not running when I changed the plugs

How did you test compression, I doubt a gasser will run with 100. Give a little more detail on what you know about the vehicle, daily driver for years/months/days, new purchase. Also do you have fuel to the injectors at the hard lines? Are you sure you have fuel?

I made a compression test gauge

Hornets nest in the air tube? (or mice/rats)
in tank screen plugged and not allowing adequate fuel?
strip fuse ok in glow circuit?

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

I made a compression test gauge using an old glowpug

So do you have fuel ALL the way TO the injectors ?
' crack' that connection....and try to start the engine... sloride was right to ask about that .... see if that bleeds any air out of the lines... might need to tighten them while the engine is being cranked... do you have someone to help with this ? I have to do that to my Ford Tractor...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

If it was running before changing GPs it should run after. I can only guess that your compression test is not accurate because 100 is very low. I would start with confirming that you have fuel to the injectors by cracking the hard lines and seeing fuel while cranking, then tighten them and see what happens. Plenty of help here from many just give as much info as you can.

You only got 100 psi on all the cylinders with the compression test?

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Hello..newbie here and im sorry to hijack the post i really need some help.
I have a 1985 mercedes 190e 2.3
I have this vehicle for 3 months
Upon purchase this car had fuel delivery problems
So..i changed:
Fuel pump relay
Filter,pump,accumulator
Rebuilt fuel distributor
New fuel injectors
Car started...yay ran like crap
But started when i stepped on gas pedal car died
It would do this for several times till
Eventually it just cranks
Ok!! Check plugs (old and crusty)
So back to the drawing board.
New wires
New copper plugs
New cap and rotor
New ignition coil
Crank and still no start..
Check for spark and there aint none..
Nothing.
Now im stumped!!
Read about 50 threads here (and thank you all for the great advice) however i cannot seem to locate an exact location of the friggin crank sensor..from what im reading one is in the front under thermostat and also one in rear??
Then i read it might be my icm so im waiting on my shipment of the part.but can someone please be exact and tell me how many crank sensors this car has and exact location i would really appreciate it.and photos would be extra awesome..ive chased my icm wire to coil but its splits up into 5 wires and ive found a location on rear of block with a 3/8 bolt but i dont want to touch something thats not faulty.

Strip fuse is gone, bypassed when I got car (idk who did it) I wired new pencil plugs as seen on mercedes source.
The air tube ? As in where the air filter is? If so it's clear
In tank screen I have not checked, but when I bled the injector lines they had fuel coming out
Thank you all for the replies