Found the problem with the radio, there's an inline fuse that i didn't realize was a fuse. Some how it went bad during the removal of the engine. I have no idea why it worked right before I pulled the engine and now it's broke but it's good that's all it was. That means I can splice into the power wire labeled turn on so that I can run the switch side of the glow plug circuit.
The vacuum switch and glow plug button came in but annoyingly the valve is normally open and I don't think the engine will run with vacuum to it. I'll just have to remember to push the button into run I guess. Also the light up button I got for the glow plugs is always lit which wasn't what I wanted.
I bought a clutch kit because I wanted to replace the clutch release bearing before reinstalling the bell housing but I got the wrong one Sent it back and ordered what I hope is the right clutch kit, slave cylinder, front break rotors, and front wheel bearings.
Oh and my buddy said he just got a round to programming the adapter today and should have it machined tomorrow. Once he gets the flywheel done I can test fit it all.

I Fd up and bought to small of a piece of plastic but it'll work to see if things'll line up. Backside still needs to be faced and a couple counter bores added

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Got the glow plug wiring done. I had bought a light up pushbutton switch but what I didn't relize is that it's always lit which I didn't want. There was a big tow position switch leftover from when the truck k had a plow so i used that one andput a big red light on the dash so I wouldn't forget the glow plugs on.

All but the seals for the wheel bearings have come in and this time it looks like I got the right clutch.

I need to just send my friend a wad of cash or something, the adapter is still just sitting on the mill from last week. All it needs is to be flipped over

Lighted switches generally have 3 terminals.

One of them goes to ground ( this is one leg of the lamp )

Another goes to a power source.

The last goes to the item you want to power up, internally it also goes to the other leg of the lamp.

If the last two are reversed, the lamp will be on at all times.

Mine had two prongs and runs continuously. What ever though, I got thefllip switch and dash light now.
The big shut off switch is mounted but needs plumbing. How much vacuum are we talking with this thing? Plb with copper or can I just used that fiber reinforced vinyl tubig that's at hardware stores?
All my parts came in and I picked up some grease for the bearings, fuse for the radio, and a filter to put in the tank where the pump was.
Hopfully going to go to the junkyard tomorrow between classes and try and get rid of Merc transmissions. Hopfully they'll agree to trade me aome parts.

You'll typically show 21in-Hg or so, so the vinyl tubing should be OK, but I'd suggest using standard vacuum tubing - that's what it's designed for.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Yeah but where can I get vacuum line other than online?

Any auto parts store will have miles of vacuum tubing on hand.

Did you say fuel filter inside your tank? Do you mean just a rough screen or an actual filter?

While I'm aware that my experiences have been ridiculous for many reasons, even under normal circumstances the fuel filters on these things DO need to be replaced more often than a gas powered car. I would mount them where they're easy to get at/replace.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

You're right, I'll put it where the old injection pump was. I was thinking of putting it in the tank because that's what I read that somebody did converting his Jeep.

The bulged piece of fuel line that comes with the car is something I should use right? Does it connect to the fuel in or out on the engine?

The "bulged fuel line" is the "cigar hose" and goes on the return line of the fuel system. It's purpose is to dampen the pressure pulses from the fuel pump and helps smooth the idle. I've never had one installed on my SL conversion and no issues in over 100k miles. I'm using steel braided line and AN fittings - purely for aesthetics.

...definitely use it if you've got it and don't sweat it if you don't.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

The cigar hose from my 617 was all cracked and nasty so I replaced it with a smooth hose with no apparent issues. I agree - use it if you have it but don't sweat it if you don't.

Dan

Understanding how things work will help in the future.

The only way a 2 prong switch would light up is if the body of the switch is the ground. There should be markings on the switch as to where power goes in and where the load is attached. Details like this make or break a project.

I skipped the cigar hose as well, no issues.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Can I use the hard plastic fuel line my truck already has?

I'm completely overloaded with my class so im not getting much done. Replaced the bearings and brake rotor on the driver's side but that's it

I don't see why not as long as you can make the transition to the MB fittings somehow. Hard to be definitive without pictures, etc.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica