A mechanic told me that my turbocharger is not doing the job it should be. I've looked around for rebuilt turbochargers and apparently, they simply don't exist. There are places that refurb them, one here locally wants $750 to rebuild mine!

I saw on this forum where someone recommended Tim's Turbos in Virginia. On their site, they say the average cost is about $375 or so. But you apparently have to send your turbo in = you are without a running car for a week or so. I'd rather buy a rebuilt turbo if they were available, pay a core charge, then get a refund on the core charge when they get my old unit back. That way I'm not without a car; I can take my old turbo out and put the rebuilt one in all at the same time.

I saw about rebuild kits but it seems like it might be over my head. Kent Bergsma has a good video on it on YouTube.

jeff 1991 300d W124

I had PureTurbos rebuild my dad's 300SD. It was about 375 too if I recall.

Pure Turbos | Turbochargers and Parts | Billet Compressor Wheels | Diesel Upgrades | Rebuild Kits

You could try calling them see if they could do anything like you are after.

Alternatively, you could source a used turbo and have it rebuilt then put it on your car.

Personally, I would rather pay someone to rebuild it and balance it properly than take the chance that I would somehow muck it up and cause bits of turbo to fly through my engine. I am sure I could do the rebuilt but I dont know if I would want to take the risks.

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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

I'd like to know why he thinks its the turbo. Do you have power issues or is it making noise? Did he do a pressure test with a boost gauge while driving it?

There isnt that much to go wrong, unless its just badly worn. To start you should look in the intake and see what the blades look like (chipped or not?), then hold it with your hand and see how it spins and if it has play.

Usually turbos make bearing noises or destruct or something like that.... I am also interested in why he thinks you have a turbo problem... if it is a power problem it is more likely air filter or fuel or injection timing or something else...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

it may be easier to buy and swap in a used one (as i've done). as long as the shaft isn't loose there isn't much that goes wrong.

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

I also wonder why he made that rcommendation. But If you really need to replace it, I have a good spare I'd part with...already drilled and tapped for a pressure opeated wastegate servo.

If the turbo is just not putting out enough pressure it is often an issue with the wastegate opening too soon and keeping the pressure low.

There some ways to deal with that without even removing the turbo.

Also if it is a Garrette/Air Research Turbo Air Reasearch has a lot of places that deal with rebuilts all over the USA and the T-4 turbo is very common.
With the KKK Turbos that is another issue.

You could also get an exchange "Cartridge Assembly" which is the whole assembly circled in the picture.
You may also need a Compressor Housing Gasket for the aluminum Compressor side of the turbo.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My car is having problems going up steep hills in high gear. So if I'm buzzing along at say 40 mph and encounter a steep hill, I push the accelerator down, but the car loses speed very fast. The only way to gain speed is to kick it down in lower gear.

The mechanic apparently tested the fuel pump and it was ok. My fuel filters are new, and the fuel tank and strainer have been cleaned, but the problem still persists. He said the turbo is only putting out 1/4 of what it should. The turbo is not making any noise. I do not know how to do a pressure test with a boost gauge.

.

what happens when you push accelerator buzzing around 40
(no steep hill, just plain flat)?

do you accelerate to 60 in few seconds or it takes too long and some hick ups
along...

cheers

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

+1 The wastegate servo is serviceable, as are the vacuum elements that control it. Sometimes the wastegate itself becomes stuck, and 50/50 you can free it up on the car rather than having to R&R.

Actually, that assumes (always bad) that the problem is low turbo pressure. The most common problem on these engines is a clogged pressure sense take-off. Look on the left side of your intake manifold. Find the large sensor. Just below that, you'll find a hose connected to a screw-in fitting. Remove the hose, undo the fitting and clean it out, replace with the hose. I bet you find your mojo. Mechanics these days have forgotten all the oddities of working on old diesels.

If you want to do a pressure test, just attach your pressure gauge to the fitting described above. Easy.

Remember, we're talking a diesel here, so "fast" is not it's thing. If I'm doing 40 on a flat road or even with a normal incline, I can get up to 60 in adequate time without trying to push it. But if I get up to a steep hill..... the speedometer drops a LOT, despite pressing the gas pedal down. It just loses power. By kicking it down to a lower gear, it has power but by that time you've lost a lot of speed.

jeff

I did clean those out previously, but it didn't help. I also stuck a small nail in that area and there's a bunch of gunk in there. So even with the sensor cleaned, it probably gets reclogged again because the gunk in the manifold is there to help replug it. I'm trying to clean the manifold now, if I could just get the crossover elbow tube up and out.

Same place has done more than a few for me. All work fine.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Does this '91 have the factory vacuum wastegate actuator or have you replaced it with a pressure actuator? Seems like you should tighten the Bowden cable so it drops to third gear sooner.

The '91 300D uses a T-25, not a T-4. Probably just as common.

Sixto
83 300SD

Yes, I believe this has the factory wastegate actuator. I'm not mechanical enough to mess with that stuff, so unless the previous owner did, then it's original.

A mechanic told me just today to not tighten the Bowden cable. He said if the engine is not right, then fix the engine, not how it shifts. T-25 is the one I have.