Granny Smith Will Live On! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #1 11-16-2016, 11:58 AM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-cars-sale/359060-fs-1982-300d-euro.html

After being listed for sale for two years I bought the Euro 1982 300D that Rick was selling. Its nice being back in a W123 sedan after a loooong absence and I cant wait to bring Granny back to her former glory.

The Good
Green Tex on Cloth interior is in 9/10 shape with some light fading
Manual everything except sunroof
Dealer installed AC (no R4!!!!)
Alloy hubcap wheels
Trunk Triangle and First Aid Kit
Provisions for vacuum headlight adjustment
Euro Bumpers
Engine runs nice and smooth and is very peppy for a non turbo
brakes work nicely
Original Becker radio works (speakers need replacing)
Front Right fender antenna (super cool!)

Work to be done

Transmission grinds into reverse (work around shift to 3rd then reverse)
2nd gear synchro isnt happy
Rust on the front jack points, hopefully I can repair it
Rust on non structural parts of the body. Wheel arches, front nose, etc
Front and rear windshield seals need to be replaced
Paint has failed clear coat
Suspension feels good but will probably need a rebuild

Regardless of the work to be done which was listed in the for sale ad by Rick Im very pleased with this W123 and look forward to documenting its restoration.

leathermang · #2 11-16-2016, 12:52 PM

That is great... I think I played a part in that by emailing Rick when it was listed for sale in N.Y. area... it made that trip and Rick had it for a while.. before he went Electric big time.. lol

jake12tech · #3 11-16-2016, 02:23 PM

Nice car looks pretty clean for the most part. Interior is immaculate!

Regarding the rust, from what I'm learning on my 98 E300, there's most likely rust behind the outer skin of the rocker. There's an inside rocker as well. Both can be repaired and structurally hold up. Rust can always be fixed. Just cut the metal and weld it, fiberglass is NO way to fix rust. If you repaint the car, try to have an integrated clear coat and base coat done. Less clear coat issues in the FL sun.

TheDon · #4 11-20-2016, 10:27 PM

Went to go move the car today and the clutch pedal went right to the floor. Rear brake reservoir and clutch was empty but no signs of leaking fluid unless the bell housing is full of it. Guess I need to bleed the slave, glad I have a pressure bleeder.

TheDon · #5 11-22-2016, 07:17 AM

Found a big wet spot under the transmission. So I guess the slave is leaking.

funola · #6 11-22-2016, 09:52 AM

Here's an old post http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/219024-82-240d-clutch-question.html my experience with my 83 240D clutch

Post was from 09, I had to read it to remember what I did. Some of it may apply to your's. There is a go/ no go gauge to check clutch thickness by where the clutch rod sits, though dimensions given for the gauge did not work for my clutch rod and had to be changed. Mine was also missing a shim (with a slot, which sits between the slave and the bell housing) which made using the gauge not possible. I had leaky steel lines (there are 2) and had to fix at least one of them with flaring tools. There were rusted fittings on the steel lines which made removal difficult. Replacing the clutch slave cyl and fixing the leaky lines cured my clutch problems.

Rick Miley · #7 11-24-2016, 09:20 AM

I'm absolutely overjoyed to have Granny Smith go to a good home where she will be well cared for. Just to connect the dots, here are the threads where I bought her from turbodiesel and then advertised her for sale.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/113160-any-interest-1982-euro-300d-4-spd.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-cars-sale/359060-fs-1982-300d-euro.html

There's a lot about the history of the car in those threads. A couple of other things that I didn't see mentioned:
When the odometer started slipping, I pulled the speedo out and sent it to Continental Imports to have the whole unit reconditioned. Since then the speedometer and odometer have worked perfectly.
The car came with steel wheels but I found a set of aluminum wheels in the junkyard. I sent them out to be professionally straightened just like you might do with modern alloys. So they all run straight and true.

Edit - pictures refreshed my memory. It came with bundts that were in terrible condition and were not MB original anyway. So I ditched them for the steelies and then later the aluminum.

TheDon · #8 11-24-2016, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Miley

I'm absolutely overjoyed to have Granny Smith go to a good home where she will be well cared for. Just to connect the dots, here are the threads where I bought her from turbodiesel and then advertised her for sale.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/113160-any-interest-1982-euro-300d-4-spd.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-cars-sale/359060-fs-1982-300d-euro.html

There's a lot about the history of the car in those threads. A couple of other things that I didn't see mentioned:
When the odometer started slipping, I pulled the speedo out and sent it to Continental Imports to have the whole unit reconditioned. Since then the speedometer and odometer have worked perfectly.
The car came with steel wheels but I found a set of aluminum wheels in the junkyard. I sent them out to be professionally straightened just like you might do with modern alloys. So they all run straight and true.

Edit - pictures refreshed my memory. It came with bundts that were in terrible condition and were not MB original anyway. So I ditched them for the steelies and then later the aluminum.

I like sitting in the car and pretending to drive it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Here's an old post http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/219024-82-240d-clutch-question.html my experience with my 83 240D clutch

Post was from 09, I had to read it to remember what I did. Some of it may apply to your's. There is a go/ no go gauge to check clutch thickness by where the clutch rod sits, though dimensions given for the gauge did not work for my clutch rod and had to be changed. Mine was also missing a shim (with a slot, which sits between the slave and the bell housing) which made using the gauge not possible. I had leaky steel lines (there are 2) and had to fix at least one of them with flaring tools. There were rusted fittings on the steel lines which made removal difficult. Replacing the clutch slave cyl and fixing the leaky lines cured my clutch problems.

I'm wondering if replacing the slave will fix my 1-2 shift issues. I might just need to do the clutch job.

TheDon · #9 12-28-2016, 10:05 AM

ordered a new clutch slave and brake fluid resevoir seals so I can bleed the clutch system. I have a fancy pressure bleeder so this should make the job easier.

I do need to do windshield seals (front and rear) since we have had two freak rainstorms this december that I was not counting on and poor granny smith is taking on some water.

any tips on replacing the seals? ive never had to do that job before.

ROLLGUY · #10 12-30-2016, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

ordered a new clutch slave and brake fluid resevoir seals so I can bleed the clutch system. I have a fancy pressure bleeder so this should make the job easier.

I do need to do windshield seals (front and rear) since we have had two freak rainstorms this december that I was not counting on and poor granny smith is taking on some water.

any tips on replacing the seals? ive never had to do that job before.

My opinion is this job should be left to the professionals. It is very easy to break the glass, so have someone do it that will replace the glass if they break it. Also, the aluminum trim needs to go in the new seal BEFORE the glass is installed. Removing the inside trim (pillar covers, sail panels etc.) is a DIY job, and that should make the job cheaper for you if the tech only needs to fit the rubber and rope in the glass. You may be surprised to find some rust under the seal. If you do, that should be dealt with before installing new seals.

TheDon · #11 12-30-2016, 09:25 PM

I have some rust in the rear window channel so I will need to address that. I'm going to at least remove the glass but leave it to the pro to install it. I've done it on my bug but thats easy because its all flat.

t walgamuth · #12 12-30-2016, 11:14 PM

Sounds like fun! The 123s are so very lovable.

gatorblue92 · #13 12-31-2016, 08:44 AM

X2 on having a professional do the window seals. I broke a W123 windshield on a parts car when I was trying to remove it for another member.

funola · #14 12-31-2016, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

I have some rust in the rear window channel so I will need to address that. I'm going to at least remove the glass but leave it to the pro to install it. I've done it on my bug but thats easy because its all flat.

In real life, removing the glass has more chance of glass breakage and causing other damages (such as bending metal moldings out of shape, scratching paint etc) than installing it. Neither one is difficult or impractical for DIY. Many here has done it successfully including myself. This being a DIY forum and you seem to be the DIY type, I'd encourage it. Follow the basic procedure in the FSM and DO NOT deviate. Do your research, use common sense and you'll do fine.

TheDon · #15 12-31-2016, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

This being a DIY forum and you seem to be the DIY type,

I may or may not have my Beetle body seperated from the pan and may also be starting up a makerspace in a major city.... slightly the DIY type..

If the cost of having a guy come out and remove the front and rear glass then come back later isn't too bad ill let them deal with it. but I also run the risk of them screwing up the trim and breaking the glass.