Or more Air Hose to reach your work area.

I bought Harbor Freight 2 hp 8 gal tank 110-120 volt and the typical 125 psi. As a handier supplement my Cambel Hasfield 220Volt don't remember the other specs but the Motor and Pump are much larger then the Harbor Freight one. It originally cost $260 in 1980 something Dollars.

If you go to Harbor Freight you can look at user reviews of the products. Likely the same with Sears or Amazon. You can look at the reviews and pic a model you like and then use that info to shop around.

Some of the items I used to frequently use compressed air for that taxes the Compressor is using a Metal Cutoff Wheeled Tool or Grinding Tool.

As a home mechanic I have seldom used pneumatic impact wrenches unless for some tough specific task.

I mostly use Harbor Freight 12 volt Impact Wrenches (which are actually made for removing lug nuts/bolts; I have one in each Vehicle) and they have nearly always substituted OK for the penumatic impact wrenches.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

First, I'm not an electrician. That said, I've spoken with several of them about this issue. One told me that if you are planning on running welders, hot tubs or powering up an RV sitting on the driveway, you need to have your service upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp.

Also, I found this website for converters, looks like this may be a possibility for you.

https://www.110220volts.com/power/voltage-converters.html

Does anyone know if a 220v device pulls more amps than a 110v?

I wouldn't suggest a step up transformer for anything bigger than an electric razor. If you need 220, just have an electrician wire an outlet for you.

Take a look at the link below for our air compressors; happy to answer any questions that you may have!

Portable Air Tank - PelicanParts.com

As for a compressor, the 2nd one is overrated and there is no way it is 3 HP, $ 120 is kind of high for what it is. Craftsman 3 1/2 HP Air Compressor. 125 psi, 25 gallon tank, 8.5 cu. ft/min @ 40 psi. $120

Most real compressors have the cubic foot rating at 90 PSI not 40. Rating the compressor at 40 gives the appearance the compressor is "bigger" As for the HP rating, the numbers on consumer units have been inflated for years ( same goes with lawnmower ratings, that is why they have gone to Ft / Lb torque )

The third compressor does not have a belt guard and is Taiwan / China made, I'd pass.

For leak down a small carry 110 compressor is fine and might even be able to deal with intermittent impact tool use. A 2 or 3 HP _oil_ lubricated piston compressor would be better for impact use.

It also seems the 220v compressor is just too much of a hassle to convert for home use.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

If you are going to get a 110 compressor, keep the power cord as short as possible then use more air hose, this reduces voltage drop that can burn the motor out.

In any event, a 220 cord of sufficient wire gauge won't be any more expensive than one for a 110 compressor. Have a look on a home center web site for bulk extension wire and plug / socket ends then make your own. It may even be less expensive to buy a pre made 110 cord and cut the ends off.

None of this is as difficult as some make it out to be.

For a decade, I used the HF cheap one w/ dual side tanks, 2 HP motor, and top handle. It appears to be diaphragm type (no belt). Worked OK for most jobs but say nailing fence boards w/ an air nailer required waiting occasionally for it to recharge. I painted a car door with it, and if you paint slow and careful it might keep up even on a whole car. Then it started not reaching cut-off pressure, running all the time. I suspect a cracked diaphragm or such. Been sitting until I take it apart someday.

I later got a larger 5 gal belt-driven Rand 4000 w/ horizontal tank and 2 wheels for $25 at a garage sale. When first tested on 120 VAC, the motor would often stall and trip the breaker. I re-wired for 220 VAC (single-phase) which is an option, and no stalling since. I ran a large drier cord (30 A?) 8 ft to a wall socket. I installed the socket where my former electric water heater used to sit in the garage (now use gas). Since a plug, I could relocate the compressor, but that is the only such socket at my house. But, I have used it to all around my 1/3 acre home (nailing fences, roof). I just chain 50 ft air hoses to reach. The air hose acts somewhat like a reservoir, so actually seems to help.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Bill - as a follow-up to your post..... My compressor is on a dedicated 220 service in the shop (the compressor is screwed to the floor) but I wired it with a dryer-type plug. With 100 amp service in the shop I can easily unplug the compressor and plug in the 30' extension cord to the welder (I forget the wire gage but it's significant and heavy!) and run the welder pretty much anywhere in the shop. Works great. There isn't enough power in the shop to run the welder and the compressor at the same time along with the AC and other power tools and this way I CAN'T screw up and do that. So I think you've done exactly the right thing.

Dan

Ok guys I have to come clean, I got the air compressor but it failed.

The capacitor blew, the motor is probably burned out.

The motor was a dinky 1/2hp unit, it is powering a compressor of at least 2hp capability a V Twin, so I can either source a 2hp motor or just buy a another air compressor out there.

I looked on ebay and craigslist and the price for a new motor, whether new or used in most cases cost more than the entire used compressor.

Long story short the compressor is FAR to powerful for the small motor to handle.

Either way, I might just buy either a new motor or another used air compressor.

Shoulda got the smaller one instead of trying to get something bigger...

Now i'm back at square one I really should of taken you guys advice, sorry.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

I do not know how much running capacity you need....
but if you can get that electric motor replaced under warranty

you might could just change the pulley ratios .... to match its abilities to the friction of the V Twin.... it would run more for sure... perhaps a temporary solution to get this job done while you wait for sales ...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Is this a good website for pulleys?

https://www.grainger.com/category/v-belt-pulleys/sheaves-and-pulleys/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-hxd

How do I go about doing this? As in finding the correct pulley style and size?

Also what do you mean by running capacity? The CFM it can output?
I would like for the compressor to put out a high enough static pressure so I can get the correct working PSI of 90. I'm aware working PSI is dependent on hose length and how much static PSI you have available.

My fear is that even with the correct pulley set up, the compressor won't be able to get to the correct static pressure OR it will takes eons to do so. Should I be concerned about such a thing?

What would you do in this situation?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Grainger is a site you can get just about Everything from.. usually at THREE or more times the cost of other places.. but sometimes you can't find those other places....so it is a nice emergency solution.

IF you are going to try to do this.. which I only mention but do NOT advise...
go to your nearest BEARing supply....which will usually also have pulleys
and ask for the PAPER catalog of things like Browning power transmission ....

You might need to make a step down mechanism between the motor and the air compressor pulley.... since it has a fan included in it i assume..

the load .. usage at the equipment... is important main factor..

but you mention other important factors... the length AND size of the hose.. can really make a difference on things needing constant pressure.. like a paint spray gun... which really needs a whip and a pressure gauge AT the sprayer's belt line to see if the system is providing the air capacity at the speed needed to do proper atomization.. ( of course I am describing the stone age... not the newer spray systems meant to save over spray )

You ARE Worrying about the correct potential problems...

so a new minimum Five hp ACTUAL hp compressor may be what you need... and make sure you have the biggest of hoses you can afford... ( a problem finding the brass connection hardware may present itself ) which I hope someone will tell me how to resolve with my 5/8ths inside diameter hose ...

The way they are allowed to describe ( which should be illegal ) causes many people to buy under what they need for their jobs...

You will need to really research to make sure you get what you need.... ' over capacity' is a really good thing... some day you might want to hook up two loads at the same time...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Thank you for the info. This is helpful, but since the I don't know how powerful the compressor it is a wash on deciding on what kind of pulley I need. I'll just buy another air compressor out there. The one I own know is a hack job, I won't be putting anymore money into it.

However, I'll keep it the compressor for a spare or sell it. Same goes for the tank.
I'll also swap the the motor to see if the compressor is even worth keeping.


There's another one in much better condition and it isn't a hack job, it's a stock champion 2hp air compressor.

I'm going to upload some pictures of it very soon, i'll step outside in a sec.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

I think you are going the right direction
but I would never again buy anything less than five hp for a shop compressor..
just my experience with smaller ones......check to see how much air tools use..
a LOT and some require a high pressure at the same time...
good luck

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html