Help Me Choose An Air Compressor - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Father Of Giants · #1 07-07-2017, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

Leak down test uses very little air and under 20psi to do the test. Pick a small and modern one unless you are a professional mechanic. That is my experience, everyone has different preferences.

What about suspension work?

ah-kay · #2 07-07-2017, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

What about suspension work?

The only time you need a big air compressor is doing paint spraying, professional garage, tire shops or you think you are a professional that you cannot do without one. All suspension work can be done by hand or a 3 gallons compressor. At the end of the day, it is your money and decision.

barry12345 · #3 07-07-2017, 02:22 PM

Many points of view and understandable. There has been a generation that has known and lived with these limited smaller air compressors. I guess it is just a case of what you want to do both presently and in the future.

As for a test on a used compressor. The most important one is the time to fill the empty tank from empty. If it is rated at say nine cubic feed per minute output. It should fill the 20 gallon tank in just a little more than two minutes till shut down.

HuskyMan · #4 07-07-2017, 02:27 PM

Compressors must be drained after each use or rust can set up.

From the link below:

"This is an old sears belt drive V twin air compressor that was never drained properly. When air compressors run humidity in the air they compress condenses in the tank. The resulting water sits in the bottom of the tank until it is drained. When not drained regularly the tank will rust from the inside out, when the tank is weakened enough it will often fail catastrophically."

"Tanks have a maximum lifespan too. They still rot even with frequent draining. These compressors were built to replace in under 10 years. My personal shop compressor is built using a locomotive air supply tank ASME certified to 380PSI. The problem with that tank is, it's WAY too heavy for portability. So they make these thin steel tanks for portability thus the maximum life span. If a person really wants years out of a thin tank, they'll have the inside of the tank coated before the first use. Warranty void = yes. Life span increase = also yes. Pumps are another matter, few are built like they once were."

WATCH THE ENTIRE VIDEO - HE OPENS UP THE TANK SURGICALLY RUST RUST RUST RUST!!!! YIKES!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdYimN5yOZc

Father Of Giants · #5 07-07-2017, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuskyMan

Compressors must be drained after each use or rust can set up.

From the link below:

"This is an old sears belt drive V twin air compressor that was never drained properly. When air compressors run humidity in the air they compress condenses in the tank. The resulting water sits in the bottom of the tank until it is drained. When not drained regularly the tank will rust from the inside out, when the tank is weakened enough it will often fail catastrophically."

"Tanks have a maximum lifespan too. They still rot even with frequent draining. These compressors were built to replace in under 10 years. My personal shop compressor is built using a locomotive air supply tank ASME certified to 380PSI. The problem with that tank is, it's WAY too heavy for portability. So they make these thin steel tanks for portability thus the maximum life span. If a person really wants years out of a thin tank, they'll have the inside of the tank coated before the first use. Warranty void = yes. Life span increase = also yes. Pumps are another matter, few are built like they once were."

WATCH THE ENTIRE VIDEO - HE OPENS UP THE TANK SURGICALLY RUST RUST RUST RUST!!!! YIKES!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdYimN5yOZc

Thanks for the info

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neilert

I'd buy the amrox, as you wanted 110v power. My advice would be to buy a compressor that allows you to change the oil. My experience is that they run much quieter.

I can only they're oil filled, however both are belt driven so they'll be much quieter than the direct drive compressors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

I've R&R'd both the front and rear suspension on my 190 with nothing more than an electric impact gun and hand tools, no need for air. Even the impact gun was a luxury. Leakdown test is another story, but a tiny compressor should be sufficient for that.

For 220, you would need a pair of adjacent slots on your panel, as the 220V feed is two phase. You can have an electrician wire a 220v socket, and it would probably cost three times the price of the compressor. While it's not hard to DIY, you can run afoul of local building codes (not to mention electrocute yourself). As for using your oven socket, maybe, if the plugs match. But how long is the cord on the compressor? If it doesn't reach, a two phase extension cord is not a cheap item.

It isn't long at all on the 220v one, I never thought about that.

I'll think about this for a bit. Thanks everyone.