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#1
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Cluth Master Cylinder Issues
Hello!
Recently, I began having trouble with the clutch on my 1979 Euro 300D. After starting up to head to work last week I found the clutch wouldn't disengage, and I couldn't get the car into gear. The clutch pedal has always had a low engagement point since I've owned the car, but I've been too preoccupied taking care of other issues to fix what hadn't broken yet. I was unable to find any evidence of leaks on either the clutch or slave master cylinders. I ended up ordering both to be sure. After hooking everything back up I couldn't get a drop of fluid out of the slave. After further investigation, I found that there was no fluid leaving the new Master Cylinder. Here's what I know. Fluid flows freely to the Master Cylinder. While the Master is on the bench, fluid flows through it as well. However, when it is hooked up in the car I get nothing, regardless of pedal position. I did find however, that when I remove the clutch pushrod, I start to get a trickle. Is this normal? For what it's worth, I pulled apart both the new and old Master Cylinders and they are identical internally and externally. The new one did not come with a new pushrod, so I've re-used the existing one. Is it maybe the wrong length? If so why did it work with the old Master? |
#2
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Pushrod length?
Perhaps incorrect?
Just guessing, I have a lovely automatic... snapped_bolt
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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts '80 300TD Probably will be put back into service! '79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal.... |
#3
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Quote:
Caveat: There are two different length pushrods. |
#4
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I gave adjusting the eccentric bushing to a try. No matter it's position the piston is slightly depressed. Guess that narrows it down to the pushrod.
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