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  #1  
Old 07-19-2017, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 5
Cluth Master Cylinder Issues

Hello!

Recently, I began having trouble with the clutch on my 1979 Euro 300D. After starting up to head to work last week I found the clutch wouldn't disengage, and I couldn't get the car into gear. The clutch pedal has always had a low engagement point since I've owned the car, but I've been too preoccupied taking care of other issues to fix what hadn't broken yet.

I was unable to find any evidence of leaks on either the clutch or slave master cylinders. I ended up ordering both to be sure. After hooking everything back up I couldn't get a drop of fluid out of the slave. After further investigation, I found that there was no fluid leaving the new Master Cylinder.

Here's what I know. Fluid flows freely to the Master Cylinder. While the Master is on the bench, fluid flows through it as well. However, when it is hooked up in the car I get nothing, regardless of pedal position. I did find however, that when I remove the clutch pushrod, I start to get a trickle.

Is this normal? For what it's worth, I pulled apart both the new and old Master Cylinders and they are identical internally and externally. The new one did not come with a new pushrod, so I've re-used the existing one. Is it maybe the wrong length? If so why did it work with the old Master?

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  #2  
Old 07-19-2017, 07:46 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 278
Pushrod length?

Perhaps incorrect?
Just guessing, I have a lovely automatic...



snapped_bolt
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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2017, 07:57 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto CA
Posts: 4,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montgomery View Post
Hello!

Recently, I began having trouble with the clutch on my 1979 Euro 300D. After starting up to head to work last week I found the clutch wouldn't disengage, and I couldn't get the car into gear. The clutch pedal has always had a low engagement point since I've owned the car, but I've been too preoccupied taking care of other issues to fix what hadn't broken yet.

I was unable to find any evidence of leaks on either the clutch or slave master cylinders. I ended up ordering both to be sure. After hooking everything back up I couldn't get a drop of fluid out of the slave. After further investigation, I found that there was no fluid leaving the new Master Cylinder.

Here's what I know. Fluid flows freely to the Master Cylinder. While the Master is on the bench, fluid flows through it as well. However, when it is hooked up in the car I get nothing, regardless of pedal position. I did find however, that when I remove the clutch pushrod, I start to get a trickle.

Is this normal? For what it's worth, I pulled apart both the new and old Master Cylinders and they are identical internally and externally. The new one did not come with a new pushrod, so I've re-used the existing one. Is it maybe the wrong length? If so why did it work with the old Master?
At the point where the pushrod attaches to the pedal, there is an eccentric bushing. The bolt in the center of the bushing locks it in position on the pedal. Rotate the bushing so that there is clearance between the end of the pushrod and the piston in the master cylinder, then lock it with the bolt. When the pedal pad can move about 1/8-1/4" before the pushrod moves the piston then the freeplay is about right.

Caveat: There are two different length pushrods.
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2017, 11:41 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 5
I gave adjusting the eccentric bushing to a try. No matter it's position the piston is slightly depressed. Guess that narrows it down to the pushrod.

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