Won't shut off ... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cmac2012 · #1 07-31-2017, 02:11 PM

... except by using the manual lever. Last night I put in new O-rings, springs, and copper washers on the delivery valves. Hallelujah, it runs now, I'd had an episode of not starting, I think it might have been owed to too much pressure seeping out at the delivery valves, not sure.

I'll search archives for shutting off issues, I thought maybe someone would be familiar with something that one might disrupt while working in that area that would affect shutoff.

TX76513 · #2 07-31-2017, 02:22 PM

Vacuum line still in place/hookedup/not damaged?

Maxbumpo · #3 07-31-2017, 02:32 PM

Vacuum lines probably disturbed during the DV work. Hopefully you did not break off the plastic "T" on the main vacuum line between vacuum pump and brake booster.

tdoublenastywitit · #4 07-31-2017, 03:03 PM

U just unplugged a vacuum line or loosed a rubber vacuum connection. Just snug them all up. Especially chexk the one on your shut off valve with the brown air line, with a blue (maybe grey, don't remember) stripe. Because that one is connected to the far right of your injection pump

I would suggest replacing them all with brand new ones, one by one so u know which ones u replaced and don't miss one.

It take 15 mins and will help in future.

cmac2012 · #5 07-31-2017, 03:21 PM

Good advice all. I'll check it out soon. All new lines and fittings sounds good, I gather that they can get brittle with age. Well, that's sort of a 'well duh' observation. Is getting new material a trick? I'll search for some.

Hmm ... just checked Pelican, lots of vacuum line but no fittings. Searching ...

cmac2012 · #6 07-31-2017, 04:58 PM

I barely know this engine, part 7. Yup, couldn't find it last night but easier in daylight - it was just a vacuum line that slipped off. Sorry to be such a newb, I'll try to ask better questions.

Diseasel300 · #7 07-31-2017, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

Sorry to be such a newb, I'll try to ask better questions.

A question unasked is a question unanswered.

tdoublenastywitit · #8 07-31-2017, 08:43 PM

Just look for rubber tubing. I really bet they have it on here but maybe not. If someone could find them on here and send a link that would be cool.

Usually you will get it as like 5feet long rubber tube and cut it up your self into desired lengths. It doesn't have to be specifically for Mercedes, just google it.

But yes the "Y"and "+" fittings u will need to find special, again google it, and then once.you find what you are looking for you will now have the correct name of it so you can do a more thorough search. Lol half the time finding the proper name is the biggest problem in finding parts.

The last thing I will say is that Mercedes Source had a vacuum connection kit with everything you need buy it is waaaay over priced.

I just.goto pick and pull and find good ones from.other German.cars. if you use used ones just cut off a half or quarter inch frpm.each end and they should be snug enough to get you by. The ends just get bigger from having the tube in there for so long.

And thank you for asking your question

Diseasel300 · #9 07-31-2017, 10:18 PM

Why on earth would anyone use a USED vacuum connector?! They're so cheap it's impossible to justify anything other than outright replacement. They can be had from Pelican parts, Amazon, eBay, or a plethora of other sources for cents.

The vacuum line is generic, forget about matching color codes. Buy some in bulk, replace the crispies under the hood, and be done with that job for another 30+ years. Rubber will crack and leak in 5 or so years, don't fall into that false-economy trap. The hard line will last for decades.

Important note: When replacing vacuum connectors, pay attention to any orifices or check valves installed. Don't throw them out!

tdoublenastywitit · #10 08-01-2017, 12:43 AM

If a 40 year old connection still works a 10 year old connection has plenty of life in it, especially when u don't have a week to wait for one to come in the mail. I'm not saying it's the best option or even really suggesting, but it can be done. It's free at pick and pull and it can be $15-$20 after shipping online.

Not everything has to be so dang straight laced all the time.

Diseasel300 · #11 08-01-2017, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdoublenastywitit

If a 40 year old connection still works a 10 year old connection has plenty of life in it, especially when u don't have a week to wait for one to come in the mail. I'm not saying it's the best option or even really suggesting, but it can be done. It's free at pick and pull and it can be $15-$20 after shipping online.

Not everything has to be so dang straight laced all the time.

That depends on how much free time you have and how much it's worth to you. If you spend your weekends pawing through junkyards and salvaging parts of questionable quality that cost pennies new and don't mind replacing them every so often or having problems with constant vacuum leaks, more power to you. Sometimes problems are worth fixing once properly and moving on with life.

cmac2012 · #12 08-01-2017, 03:10 AM

I agree with both of you. Boneyard items can sometimes be way better than what you have on your car at the moment. Particularly if it's a small item that can be obtained on the Pick and Pull entry fee recovery program. Speaking of which, I have a LARGE supply of spade fuses, brake and turn signal bulbs - sometimes I make off with primo looking, Euro hose clamps. Small things but it's nifty to not have to go out and buy such things.

OTOH, some things are best to get new, if you can find them.

I've made some good scores already off of more recent gasser 126s - 4 door check rods (all were dysfunctional on my car) and a 3rd brake light, rear window. Mine disintegrated when I tried to access it to install a new bulb.

Have NOT had luck on the cruise control amplifier score. I got a couple from low miles (under 200K) gassers - they look slightly different, still take the harness but neither worked.

Diseasel300 · #13 08-01-2017, 12:15 PM

The cruise amp is specific to the diesels. 1985 and up should use the same CC amp. An alternative solution is to send one off to JamesDean on this forum. He has the tools and know-how to resurrect them.

cmac2012 · #14 08-01-2017, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

The cruise amp is specific to the diesels. 1985 and up should use the same CC amp. An alternative solution is to send one off to JamesDean on this forum. He has the tools and know-how to resurrect them.

Good info. I figured there must be a difference. This is the tough transition for me with this car. My daily drivers for the last 15 years (?!?!) have been two BMW 325i E30s. Especially for the first ten years, the boneyards around here had plenty of them. I have never seen a 300SDL at a boneyard. Don't think I've ever seen a 603 motor either. So are you saying that most of the diesels, 124s for example, post '85 would have the same amplifier?

Diseasel300 · #15 08-01-2017, 02:18 PM

Correct. 126 (post-85), 123 (post-85), 124, and 201 chassis with a diesel should all use the same cruise amp. Verify the part number on the can to be positively certain. A gas engine CC amp will not work on a diesel. They use different input signals.