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#1
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Interesting sticker you have there. That is probably a new MB crate engine you have in there. They put those stickers on them, that did not come with the car.
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#2
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Greg,
We had this discussion in more general terms a week or so ago. The 90 degree, or any specified rotation of a specific thread pitch will give you the bolt stretch, or preload, you are looking for more accurately than torque for a bunch of reasons. To make use of this technique the closure, meaning the fasteners, the gaskets and the pressure boundary parts all have to be designed knowing this is how the preload will be applied. So, more than just the gasket would have to be changed, most notably the bolts and possibly the washers under the bolts would have to be redesigned. Additionally, using this degrees of rotation with a known thread pitch method to apply preload offers opportunities to make the process less sensitive to precision eye-hand coordination, measuring tools and parts tolerances. And that leads to more robust assemblies, even when I do the work. Like I said, I am not sure this is not how MB stocks repair parts for these cars, in sets or kits that bring the engine or whatever up to date when you do a job like take the head off. I no longer have a 75 model, and I don't know where all the guys on the site get the technical update bulletins describing how the designs evolve over time, so at the moment I am not really equipped to get worked up enough to worry about this. But it is something that should be determined before you start the job. Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#3
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So sad................................
Interesting Turbo... That would be great. Is there any way of confirming if this is a rebuilt motor?
Welllllll guys, I tried. I don't think I have been around long enough to really let go on this one but who has a three handed monkey they can let me borrow to help me with these valves!!!!!!!!!!!!! ![]() I swear I did not move that wrench but the feeler gauges don't lie. Do it again, and again, and again.......... well you get the idea. What a project this is... 2 hours in and I had those first two valves nailed and I mean adjusted within a knats a___. Then I come upon an exhaust valve that is out to .40 MM! Figured that would sure help to get it set correctly. Nuts are frozen together, ![]() ![]() Oh well, I guess this job might go to the mechanic. I just hate to spend half the cars value on a mechanic? I would like to thank everyone again for all your help! Cheers, Mitch p.s. Heck who knows after sleeping on it I may give it one more go, I just hate not being able to finish something that I start. Last edited by Fisherman; 05-31-2002 at 12:49 AM. |
#4
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Hoping my two cents might help.
When I began to do my valves it did take me some time before I realized that the top nut is the one that should remain stationary and that therefore it is important to keep it lined up as exactly as possible while turning the bottom nut upwards to meet it. It's just possible you missed this. Good luck |
#5
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Thanks Anon,
Unfortunately (or fortunately) I was aware of this arrangment. I tend to think that because I bought some rather cheap wrenches so they would be : 1. Thinner therefore easier to bend 2. Thinner and easier to fit on the locknut Which is causing me some problems because I do not believe that the jaws of the wrenches are precision cut so I get some play when trying to hold the acorn nut. I'm gonna have a cup of joe and then go at it here again in a few minutes and see how things go. I had this nasty dream last night that I was turning the locknut the wrong way...! Pretty darned frightening. |
#6
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From Fisherman
"Unfortunately (or fortunately) I was aware of this arrangment" damn. wish you'd been unaware.Then the problem would be solved. An earlier poster "Mccan" mentioned bending a standard wrench and then grinding off a little metal. It would have seemed that a thinner wrench to start with; would have both made it easier to bend and also removed the need to grind it down. Maybe flattening the better quality wrench is a better option based on your experience. It's awfull when we start having nightmares about our cars. |
#7
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Eureka!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I jumped out at 5:30 this morning figuring that the valves hadn't woken up yet and I could sneak up on them.
It worked! I was able to blaze through all of them in about an hour and half. Results? Well, you and I both know that to those of us that do the work it surely helped and boy does it sound smoother and I must have more power, and it goes faster, and I love my family more, etc.... Well you get the picture. Just feels good getting it wrapped up though. Thanks everyone. |
#8
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Way ta Go !!
Real happy for you. It really was a super good feeling for me also. What a difference ! This list is awesome. I'm becoming an addict. jim |
#9
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Like I said before..... I do not know how people live without oxy-acet rigs.... ( re bending metal)...
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#10
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I bent my wrenches with a plumbers torch and it worked just fine. If you buy the cheap stuff it bends real easy...
![]() On the other hand if I were taking a oxy-acet rig to my Mac tools to bend one I would give everyone full permission to slap me a couple of times! |
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