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#31
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Quote:
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#32
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Good points. I've been waffling about changing it here since I posted that. I have a Blackstone jar at home I've been saving. I could see myself trying to get some home to transfer to that jar and something going wrong.
I estimate 3000 of those miles are freeway. I've been changing at 4K since I've had it.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#33
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I couldn’t find the product Kent recommended for viscosity enhancement, Engine Oil Saver, Liqui - Moly, so I put in some STP instead. The thought being that pumping the viscosity back up a bit on this aging synthetic could be helpful.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#34
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You're really overthinking this. Change your oil when you get home, don't bother with any additives that may or may not be an improvement on the additive package designed by your oil's manufacturer. Going a few miles over on an oil change once is nothing.
Enjoy your time with your family.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#35
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#36
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Definitely over thinking it. Just drive and worry less.
FWIW - I do minimal 5,000 miles on conventional (even running with veggie oil) and 8000 miles on synthetic on om617s. With the cam cover removed, they all have been very clean inside and compression has been very good. .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#37
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Wow I missed an oil thread skirmish.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#38
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Wasn't necessary, but shouldn't do any harm. That syn blend 15w40 will stay plenty thick. The owner's manual viscosity table allows for 5w30 in sub-zero temps...
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'82 300CD "Pearl", the very first turbo diesel 123 coupe Totaled 11/23/18, rebuild in progress. '85 300TD, "Artemis". '78 300D euro, "Ol' Red", mostly retired. '85 300D, "Gandalf". |
#39
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![]() The thought has occurred to me that I’m going into anal retentive territory on this. I’ll tell you what it is, I bought this car a bit long in the tooth, 303K, I am now at 326K and change, I don’t want to shop around for another one anytime soon. I’ve heard from experienced hands that the OM603 is probably not the 500K workhorse that the OM617 is. And I’ve seen other opinion saying it’s inconclusive. So who knows, but I would like to get at least 500,000. The car is mostly nice, needs a bit of help perhaps. Here I am in central Washington about 20 miles south of Canada, near Tonasket. My greater community has these hippie fairs up in the hills, we call them Barter Faires. Cash is OK as a medium of barter. ![]() I showed up about midnight Friday, was tired, it was drizzling, I might have looked a bit sad setting up my tent. It had been a few years since I did it. The next morning I got up and apparently some righteous hippie chick put a cute little doll on my roof rack, perhaps to cheer me up. Worked. I put a small graphic message in its arms in case the gifter came by again. It was still there when I left so it's a nice souvenir. I'll give it to the right kid someday. ![]()
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#40
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I think Blackstone's recommendation was 11,000 mi on the Cummins. That engine takes 3 gal of oil which makes a change significantly more expensive than in a 617. Full synthetic lets the 617 start without plugging in here in mild TN winters.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#41
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Oil changes are cheap, change it every 3-4kmiles or 7500km as the factory manual recommends. With the mileage, age, condition, it's best to even do it sooner due to the 'soot' in the oil. Do not stretch these out to 10,000km+, specifically the OM616/617 as it will cause damage to the rings over time. I follow 3 rules personally.
1) Change the oil before the factory recommended kilometers 2) Use German/OEM quality filters only, change the orings and check condition of the oil tube orings (2) 3) Use German higher grade 15W40 oil
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1976 Mercedes 240D (Sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel: 500,000KM 1986 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 1988 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 2002 Mercedes C240 (Sold) 2008 Mercedes C350 4matic A great site for purchasing industrial rubber products! Industrial Rubber |
#42
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I run mine at 5k intervals.
Mainly because it's easier to count 5k intervals on my odometer than 3k. Also, if I did every 3k, I'd be changing oil constantly. |
#43
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Quote:
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words ![]() |
#44
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Maybe the question should be, whose 61X or 60X has died before 350K doing 7,500 mile OCIs due to sludge.
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#45
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Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4VqcghARzg Sorry, videos and proof do not lie. Change it often (3-5k miles).
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1976 Mercedes 240D (Sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel: 500,000KM 1986 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 1988 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 2002 Mercedes C240 (Sold) 2008 Mercedes C350 4matic A great site for purchasing industrial rubber products! Industrial Rubber |
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