Ordering Axle Shafts
 

When I do a parts lookup on replacement shafts there are always 2 options: Homokinetic or not.
How does one know? Attached are pictures of the ends of one of my old worn out shafts. What have I got here?
Looks like a 'fun' job swapping these things! Looks like time for new seals too. Oh, and that sway bar link looks a bit dry... While I'm in there... :-P :rolleyes:

There is a ton of posts on this subject here and elsewhere. If there is no flange connection near the diff, you have homokinetic. But you can also use annular.

Do a search here and on Google.

For a start: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/220000-w123-how-replacing-rear-axles.html

Basically you can use either, but with the annular ones they have bolts around the can where you can replace them the next time without removing the diff cover.

The ones in your picture are homokinetic, which is what they came with originally.

-Rog

Your seals look intact, there is no diff lekage...
Changing them isnt a bad idea, but ...

You need 2 quarts of diff oil to change them, good idea to replace the diff mount at same time... it needs to drop for the axle swap anyway. I use 75w140 synthetic oil in my diffs.

REMOVE THE FILL PLUG BEFORE YOU TAKE ANYTHNG APART!

you dont want to drain it all down, then be unable to get the fill plug loose...
CLEAN the 14mm allen drain bolt out EXTREMELY well, and soak it in aerokroil or pb-blaster overnight.
Get a HIGH QUALITY 14mm allen socket for the job.

Everything else is just take apart, pull clips, take out bolts raise and lower stand on head stick tounge out etc...

Oh... save all spacers from old axles, keep them on their original side...
If you get generic axles, grinding may be needed to fit the washer over poorly machined stubs...

So do the annular ones come with stubs that fit into the differential?

They should come complete (with both ends), but it is worth noting that not all anular axles are the same in regard to their flange. I had some from Rock Auto that I wore out and got a couple of genuine Mercedes axles in the junkyard but I still had to open the diff because the flanges weren’t compatible. I also found that with the anular ones, I had to break the joint to get them in. No big deal, just a few more bolts. Use loc-tite... I didn’t the first time... oops

Most of the annular axles I've seen online do not come with the differential flange. It needs to be ordered separately.

Chinese replacement axles are not the best solution. I am in general thrifty in nature. At the same time there are limits.

A junkyard set of originals with the boots still intact is a better way to go in my opinion. You just relube them and install them on the opposite sides that they were on the donar vehicle. You can manually check them reasonably well before removing them plus even better when removed first.

Few of these cars are in the auto wreckers for badly worn cv joints. One company in China builds all the aftermarket axles I suspect. They are sold by many retailers under a lot of different names.

They are not as bad as the Chinese front axle bearings that are sold in the market. To me those are just total junk. China will produce quality aftermarket parts right across the whole spectrum at some point. Some companies in China already are.

I go through this quite often. Last week a brother in law and friend asked me to get a good price on a set of front gas shocks for his Chev tracker. We do favors for each other.

After a quick check I suggested a set of Munros even though there was a cheaper set out there branded OEM when they where anything but. Well he brought the OEM brand. He was by last evening to pick up some switches that came in. Complaining the vehicle was almost solid in the front end.

At times he defers to my knowledge in certain areas. So he asked me if they would break in. I said probably not if they have virtually no movement now. I suspect the maker found they would also fit the tracker but they where built for a much heavier vehicle.

After some though I think I will suggest he consider removing and returning them as he purchased them locally and buy the Munros. They may have been the original suppliers for that vehicle as well. I suspect and will be valved for it's weight. They OEM brand where also thirty dollars cheaper per shock. I suspect the maker found out they also fit trackers. So they are sold for them as well.

Where am I going? The original axles for your car are north of four hundred dollars each. To expect a replacement that retails for as little as 49.00 at times. To have anywhere near the quality of materials and build. Should raise questions. No matter what name is on the box. Those aftermarket ones are all coming out of the same factory.

Awesome! Thanks everyone. These are replacement axles (about 15 years old) so they indeed did not do as well as OE. The seal on the other side is seeping a tiny bit so it might be time. Thanks for the reminder on the new mounts.

Rec CVJ Axle in Denver. $149/axle ,$75 core. Used them for 1982 300D 6 mos ago and very happy with US quality, good price and prepaid return shipping for cores.
https://www.cvjreman.com/

Re conditioned but the company has had a good reputation.

FWIW, I just replaced a set of original axles with DSS from Auto house AZ that a friend bought for his car. $100 each. The new axles lacked about 1/4" of the articulation the originals had, making it impossible to get them in without removing the inner trailing arm bolt to pivot the arm out to make room. Disassembly took 45 mins.; reassembly took 3.

Also, Amsoil severe gear 75w90 is what I used, and I have every confidence this lube will be the last reason the differential grenades. The synthetic gear oils of today are light years ahead of what would have come in our cars originally so going thicker isn't necessary.

Subscribed .

Thanks everyone. Axles have been swapped. For me the hardest part was the diff seals, those guys were in there tight! A short slide puller would have been useful. The clip on the drivers side was harder than the passenger side, maybe because I am right handed, maybe because of the position in the housing. Test drive was great, less noise and removed a bit of vibration at speed.

Is there any specific reason for that grade of oil?


My FSM states 90 SAE https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.0_en.html

From what I have scene the W123 annular axles come with the Axle Stubs (on the Diesels) on both ends. I don't know if it is W124s or W126es that sometimes have the Axles that come with out the stubs.

To matter what different axles you get you need to make sure the Spacers are fitted as per the Mercedes Service Manual.