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  #1  
Old 10-17-2018, 04:44 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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OM603.97 Head Gasket Replacement - What Parts Should be MB Only?

As mentioned in an early thread after buying my 350SD, it runs beautifully, but I accounted and planned for engine work to keep the rod bender happy.

Putting 2000+ miles on the car and resolving a tire wobble quirk has made me decide to keep the car for the long run. It starts, runs and drives beautifully. But I do see a teaspoon of oil in the recovery bottle after 500 miles. Therefore I’ve premptively decided to do the HG, and since my preferred and trusted shop is also a Bosch service shop, I’ll have them seal the IP while at it.

Ive looked through a few threads. I want to be sure that I’m very clear on what irreversible, long term items I need to specifically request are MB only parts. Essentially, I don’t care if I can save some money with Victor Reinz VC gaskets and such, but certain items should only be MB parts. I’d appreciate recommendations on the list.

Initial cut of required OE MB parts:
- head gasket
- head bolts
- valve seats (if necessary)
- tc guides (if necessary)
- timing chain (if necessary)
- ip seal kit (or should this be Bosch?)

Not sure if TC is really in play at 115k, but I figure they’ll initially line up the timing marks on the cam and harmonic balancer, and if it’s more than a small amount off, it seems like it’s as good a time as any, no?

Anything else that should be an MB part only?

Thanks!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 10-17-2018, 05:26 PM
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When I did my 300SDL, I used Victor Reinz simply due to the unknown condition of the rest of the engine and the fact I'm still running a #14 head. I used an OE upper chain guide with VR head gasket and VR head bolts. Been fine so far and I don't drive like Grandpa either.
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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2018, 05:39 PM
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Make sure you use Mbz oil, lubricant, o-rings, coolant, screws, tools etc. I have done 2 head R&R, at least 6 hd gasket replacements on 601 and 603 engines and never once specifically use mbz parts. In the grand scheme of things, it doesn't matter. I reuse all the head bolts. It is not my money so it doesn't affect me. I am just telling you my experience.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2018, 10:23 PM
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Valve stem seals would be the top of my MB only list.

Why would you need valve seats at 115K miles? For guides and seats I’d go with what a reputable machinist says, MB or not. I would think proper installation is more important than brand.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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  #5  
Old 10-17-2018, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
Make sure you use Mbz oil, lubricant, o-rings, coolant, screws, tools etc. I have done 2 head R&R, at least 6 hd gasket replacements on 601 and 603 engines and never once specifically use mbz parts. In the grand scheme of things, it doesn't matter. I reuse all the head bolts. It is not my money so it doesn't affect me. I am just telling you my experience.
There's silly then there's items that in the world of questionable parts, are likely to ensure a favorable outcome.

My read was that MB had redesigned the HG a few times in the 3.5L. So it's likely that I'd get the latest. Who knows if/what the aftermarket has. Maybe better, maybe not. But that's precisely why I'm asking the question.

If Head bolts are torque to yield, I'd prefer to do it right on a relatively pricy job than to save a few bucks and regret it when something doesn't go right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Valve stem seals would be the top of my MB only list.

Why would you need valve seats at 115K miles? For guides and seats I’d go with what a reputable machinist says, MB or not. I would think proper installation is more important than brand.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
Because I used the wrong term. It was the seals that I saw some pics, maybe yours, that showed a marked difference in the parts. So didn't mean seats. Is it prudent to replace the seals at 115k just as a matter of practice?
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2018, 12:41 PM
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I used a victor reinz head gasket and have had no issues on my om603. Measure the bolts and if they're not stretched more than I think 2mm you can reuse them per the factory service manual. I think the most important thing is following the torque procedure and if you remove the cam follow that procedure as well. These cams will break.
From what I've read the one thing that is important to use mbz parts in this would be your valve stem seals. It seems the aftermarket seals are a different design. I have not done valve stem seals yet so this is not from experience. There is several threads on here on the subject though.
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2018, 01:00 PM
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I used victor reinz HG kit, valve stem seals etc. I meansured the head bolts and they were all within spec so I reused those. I actually had 2 sets of used head bolts and every bolt in both sets was below the max length by several MM. No reason to waste money.
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  #8  
Old 10-18-2018, 01:40 PM
jabroni tig weldor
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: whales vagina
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your going to do this over a tea spoon of oil?

anything with a turbo will have blow by, its normal. unless your pushing out more than a gallon (high low mark) between your fuel interval or have actual on the ground leaking or visible leaking if not i wouldn't worry about it. honestly you could probably change your driving habit and the oil would go away. or just compare the amount collected between city to freeway miles ect. freeway will push more oil.

plus you dont even know if the HG will fix the issue. i would check the head and valves for any sort of "compression leaks before the hg and rings. obviously if your doing head work your doing a hg too but to just blindly decide to do one.. do a compression test before you pull the head lol but if thats the route you plan to go use MB stuff for the HG and head bolts because it will be the best made and most engineered/updated part. the bolts are defiantly torq to yield and pretty tiny at that too so i wouldn't even think about reusing them even if they are still with in spec for stretch. .
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85 300d 0m603, 717, he341, 50mm external W/G with open dump, intake manifold as well as intercooled. need to figure out a different trans before i throw more fuel at it. the 717 trans and 8" ceramic clutch are already pissed with stock elements.
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  #9  
Old 10-18-2018, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
No reason to waste money.
Cannot agree with you more. I do things on the cheap, very cheap, but I follow the FSM procedures and it has never failed me. HG replacement is not rocket science, everything mechanical has a big tolerance spec. My take is that another shoe will drop with the car long before the HG will fail again.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2018, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-wizz View Post
use MB stuff for the HG and head bolts because it will be the best made and most engineered
Yeah, just like the #14 head was the best made and most engineered. Good point LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by g-wizz View Post
the bolts are defiantly torq to yield and pretty tiny at that too so i wouldn't even think about reusing them even if they are still with in spec for stretch. .
But Mercedes head bolts are the best made and most engineered headbolts. Why wouldn't you follow the Mercedes engineers advice?
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  #11  
Old 10-18-2018, 04:09 PM
jabroni tig weldor
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: whales vagina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Yeah, just like the #14 head was the best made and most engineered. Good point LOL

But Mercedes head bolts are the best made and most engineered headbolts. Why wouldn't you follow the Mercedes engineers advice?
can you go buy a 14 head at a dealer ship? or do they sell you a 22... same goes for the HG.

i would buy new head bolts because its cheap assurance and because of the actual size of the fastener and torq applied to it... even loosening them you get a pretty good idea how much torq they are under. reality tho is im going to find an arp stud and fastener combo that works when i switch heads.

what i said is a legitimate thing fiy. #14s are bad cause people are stupid and run them dry and or hot. subsequent revisions were done to address peoples stupidity, but for the most part the actual head does not change... no port valve or spring changes for longevity... i can assure you they just dont break haphazardly, ive beat the crap out of mine and its fine sooo i would say its pretty well engineered honestly especially if the engine remains stock and is driven like a mercedes.. (neither of which i do)

that being said i do have a #17 which is ready to be messed with.

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85 300d 0m603, 717, he341, 50mm external W/G with open dump, intake manifold as well as intercooled. need to figure out a different trans before i throw more fuel at it. the 717 trans and 8" ceramic clutch are already pissed with stock elements.
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