Hello,
My front windows will go down, Not up. I got some great advice, but thought
I'd ask the forum as well. I tried replacing fuses. I took off the rubber piece around the gear shift, and managed to lift the console, but could not take it
off for the risk of breaking it. I felt around the wires and moved them etc.
Still windows will not go up, they will go down.
Is it time to go to the mechanic?...I certainly don't have the skill or strength
to take the door apart. Everything is hard in that old car when it comes to
fixing anything. I don't like it sitting all night outside with the windows down.
Is there any type of fix I can do that does not involved taking the door apart?
I tried to pry the switches out, but I think they are attached. Not sure If
I should pry something because it is old and stuck, or if I can do damage.
Is there anything I can do in the interim to keep the car from getting stolen...
ie. Disconnect something?
Thanks
Lindajane

On my 1984 300D in order to remove the Counsel Panel to get at the Switches you need to remove the Ash Tran then remove the 2 screws that hold the Ash Tray Frame in and as you pull the Frame out you need to disconnect the Electrical Connector that is attached to it.


With the Ash Tray Frame removed you need to push the edge of the Counsel towards the rear about 3/4ths of an inch. You do that because unseen at the rear inside of the Counsel is a plastic locating Pin.


After you do that you can lift the Counsel up some and get at the Window Switch Electrical Connectors and the Switches.
Also towards the front is the turn signal/emergency flasher.


The Electrical Switches push out from the inside to the outside and there spring loaded sides that need to be squeezed in to allow he switches come out.


Before you remove the switches note how they are oriented so you can get them back into the same position.


It does sound like you need to take the Switches apart and scrape the black burned stuff off of the switch contact points. Also aftermarket switches don't hold up well.


If a Fuse goes bad you loose the use of one front window and a rear window but that window is on the opposite side of the car.


If the Power Window Relay Fuse goes bad you loose use of all of the windows and some of the accessories that run off of the same Fuse. On mine that Fuse is the #12.


Because of the above descriptions of what happens when the Fuses have issues I think it is most likely a Switch issue and most people use the front Switches more then the rear ones so they are more likely to have issues.

Good Luck.
You might want to look for one of those online sites where you can access the Factory Service manual.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you remove the Front Door Panel forward at the bottom the 2 wires screw into 2 contacts. On one window I had those screws come loose and the window stopped working. So you could check for loose screws.

If you remove the panel under the little unlocking lever is a plastic cup/protector. You have to carefully pry that out and you will see a single screw that needs to be removed. It is not the only screw that needs to be removed but it is not obvious because it is not seen when the plastic cup is installed.

I don't know if it possible to pry the bottom of the Door Panel to gain access to the Window Motor Wire Screws or not as I had already pulled of the panel before I saw them.

Once you have access to the Window Motor wires you can connect one Wire to one pole of a Car Battery and the other Wire to the opposite pole and the Widow will move one direction. Swapping the Wires to different Battery Poles will cause the Window to move in the opposite direction.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This site has pics of the interior of the Window Switches and also pics of where the Window Motor Wires on the Front Door attach and how to connect to them to move the Windows.
https://finninday.net/wiki/index.php/Mercedes_power_window_repair

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The above is a great discription of taking the switches out of to console.

First thing to look at once the console is loose us see if wires are not attached to the switch. If the windows power down, it's likely loose wires.

Once you have one switch out, it can be disassembled and cleaned. There are bits inside that go in, in order, so you need to lay out the pieces in a manner that promotes accurate reassembly.

I found the switches do not like having coffee spilled on them, but they cleaned up fine.

I forgot to mention if the plastic locating pin on the Counsel breaks off there is a fix for that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Counsel = console

Thank you...
So The ash try, when I open it, do I just literally pull it out?
I do not see any screws when I flip down the cover to open it.
The lighter is on the left side, and the ashtray, but no screws.

Thanks,
I just found a great, Simple video that describes taking off the console
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCUdGjhr0E4
Diesel, thank you, I'm going to Try and Not get things switched up,
and only disconnect the power window switches. It would be great to not
have to take the car in..

I've had that happen lots, and it is almost always dirt in the switches. Maybe it's because my cars are beaters, but i have been able to carefully pry the switches up out of the console without removing anything else. They are designed to be cleanable, just gently pry up the switch rockers out of their housing with a thin screw driver, clean the contacts with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner and a Q-tip. Put a TINY dab of lubriplate or Vaseline on the spring, re assemble, and you are good to go in most cases.




Assortment of various marginal 300D's and a 240D, all running unconverted on WVO.

For myself I don’t think my coordination ever was good enough to reliably take apart a Window Switch while it is in the Car and not loose either the ball bearings that ore inside or have those springs slip out of the plastic rocker part of the switch.

I could only see working on the switches in place if I was in a rush and I did not want to leave the Windows open, like to prevent theft. But that would be tough as I am 60+ years old and my coordination has turned into fumbling small parts and in order so see close up I have to have my Face within 6 inches of the Counsel.

My suggestion for first timers is to remove the Switch, put the switch inside something with a rim on it like a Bowel or single layer Cake Pan and take the Switch apart inside of that. Keep all of the parts inside of the Bowel or pan.

I also my experience differs with the use of contact cleaner. It took scraping with a small pocket knife to get off the black/gray burned area of the contacts on mine.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There's no problem inside the door. If there was, the window wouldn't go down. Nor is there a wiring problem. The problem is in the switch.

Yes and know. When a front window stopped working I thought it was the switch but it turned out to be a loose screw on one of the Power Window Motor Wires at the Junction/Terminal Block.

But, I otherwise agree that it is most likely a switch issue.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The window went down. If it were up currently there is no assurance it would power down. If for example the wiring continuity was lost.

Odds are still the double pole switch that reverses the voltage to the window motor is the problem though. I might get two back window switches from a salvage yard. If taking mine apart for cleaning was too hard for me. They probably saw far lesser use than the front window switches did.

Ok sure. The window went down an at that very instant, the wire broke. On both doors. Much more likely that water or dust fouled the switches, or maybe the connectors. Fix the switch and only worry about improbables when the obvious has been eliminated. I used to find the 123 switches very tricky to disassemble and clean. Better to replace if not unaffordable.