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#16
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#17
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Appreciate your help! |
#18
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Oops
Sorry Tom ;
I did miss that . Yes, the fluid may well turn dark again and begin to smell burned, don't rush changing it just yet as it takes a while (500 miles minimum) to fully mix and get the crud going again . Many here deride this but I've been saving trannies and power steering pumps, other hydraulic systems since the 1960's by thorough cleaning of pans and new filters, then changing the fluid a few times allowing it to run a while and get gunked up again . Cheaper and easier than an overhaul or installing a used tranny . Obviously if it doesn't show signs of life don't wa$te any more time on new fluid ....
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#19
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Update!
After researching on the forum and conducting more testing, I decided to replace the transmission. Maximan1 was a great help and shipped over the 722.117 from his project. Let me give him a shoutout here that he was a real stand-up guy about the whole thing. Anyway, the cold snap here in Indiana a few weeks ago really wreaked havoc on my fleet of 20-40 year old heaps, so I had to replace a few water pumps, alternators, etc in my daily drivers before I could tackle the transmission job on the 123. Finally - got to it this weekend. I pulled out the old trans and got a huge shock. The main case number on the old transmission is: r115 271 4201 From what I can find online, this came from either a w108 or a w116. Can anyone shed further light on this code? Between the wrong/broken trans and a totally shot center bearing causing a flopping drive shaft, it's starting to make sense why I was having so many problems! Full list of parts replaced: trans - 722.117 filter gasket torque converter havoline md-3 ATF front & rear flex discs & hardware center bearing and support shift bushings I'm almost done hooking everything up - test drive tonight! |
#20
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Cold Weather 'Fun'
Sounds like one more old beater kept running as cheaply as possible .
Fully 90 % of my works as a Mechanic involve correcting DOP/DPM bodges . With the temps you're having expect to need a master cylinder or three ere long...
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#21
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That "r" number is a casting number, not a part # or type #. Stamped into the right side pan rail of the main case is the part and/or type #. The pan rail is directly above the gasket line for the pan. |
#22
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vwnate1, You got it!
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#23
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Thanks Frank. I'll check that number again tonight. I didnt see anything familiar, like 722 117 or 722 118, but I also had ATF all over my glasses.
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