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  #16  
Old 01-16-2019, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Well ;

I hope this helps but failing to drain the torque converter (5MM Allen bit) means you didn't remove but a small fraction of the ruined fluid so don't expect too much improvement at this point .

Skipping steps & taking shortcuts always leads to unhappiness .

Before buying another used tranny, look closely at the data tag on your current tranny,. the model # 722.XXX is there or maybe stamped into the case near the pan's lip area ~ make sure whatever tranny you buy matches this six digit # .

It looks like one way or another you're close to getting it right, that's good news .
Hi Nate, thanks for your response. If you look at my 2nd bullet point, I did drain the torque converter. Good point on compatible transmissions though. Thanks! -Tom

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  #17  
Old 01-16-2019, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Is the transmission fluid now perfectly clean?

As clean as it was when it was in the bottle?
It was totally clean two days ago right after I refilled. I will look tonight to see if it still is clean - assume youre implying that some of the old gunk may have still been in there and fallen to the bottom by now? Perhaps a 2nd fluid replacement is in order?

Appreciate your help!
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2019, 01:17 PM
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Red face Oops

Sorry Tom ;

I did miss that .

Yes, the fluid may well turn dark again and begin to smell burned, don't rush changing it just yet as it takes a while (500 miles minimum) to fully mix and get the crud going again .

Many here deride this but I've been saving trannies and power steering pumps, other hydraulic systems since the 1960's by thorough cleaning of pans and new filters, then changing the fluid a few times allowing it to run a while and get gunked up again .

Cheaper and easier than an overhaul or installing a used tranny .

Obviously if it doesn't show signs of life don't wa$te any more time on new fluid ....
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #19  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:24 AM
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Update!

After researching on the forum and conducting more testing, I decided to replace the transmission. Maximan1 was a great help and shipped over the 722.117 from his project. Let me give him a shoutout here that he was a real stand-up guy about the whole thing.

Anyway, the cold snap here in Indiana a few weeks ago really wreaked havoc on my fleet of 20-40 year old heaps, so I had to replace a few water pumps, alternators, etc in my daily drivers before I could tackle the transmission job on the 123.

Finally - got to it this weekend. I pulled out the old trans and got a huge shock. The main case number on the old transmission is:

r115 271 4201

From what I can find online, this came from either a w108 or a w116.

Can anyone shed further light on this code?

Between the wrong/broken trans and a totally shot center bearing causing a flopping drive shaft, it's starting to make sense why I was having so many problems!

Full list of parts replaced:
trans - 722.117
filter
gasket
torque converter
havoline md-3 ATF
front & rear flex discs & hardware
center bearing and support
shift bushings

I'm almost done hooking everything up - test drive tonight!
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  #20  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:57 AM
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Diesel Dandy
 
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Wink Cold Weather 'Fun'

Sounds like one more old beater kept running as cheaply as possible .

Fully 90 % of my works as a Mechanic involve correcting DOP/DPM bodges .

With the temps you're having expect to need a master cylinder or three ere long...
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #21  
Old 02-18-2019, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasbeard View Post

Finally - got to it this weekend. I pulled out the old trans and got a huge shock. The main case number on the old transmission is:

r115 271 4201

From what I can find online, this came from either a w108 or a w116.
Can anyone shed further light on this code?

That "r" number is a casting number, not a part # or type #.

Stamped into the right side pan rail of the main case is the part and/or type #. The pan rail is directly above the gasket line for the pan.
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  #22  
Old 02-18-2019, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Sounds like one more old beater kept running as cheaply as possible .

Fully 90 % of my works as a Mechanic involve correcting DOP/DPM bodges .

With the temps you're having expect to need a master cylinder or three ere long...
vwnate1, You got it!
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  #23  
Old 02-18-2019, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
That "r" number is a casting number, not a part # or type #.

Stamped into the right side pan rail of the main case is the part and/or type #. The pan rail is directly above the gasket line for the pan.
Thanks Frank. I'll check that number again tonight. I didnt see anything familiar, like 722 117 or 722 118, but I also had ATF all over my glasses.

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