My squeak continues on my 1985sd, (right side) so I'm thinking it’s time to jump in and do the ball joint. My question is would I be better off to just replace the control arm etc, while doing the BJ ? Or just BJ.

I’ve looked up some threads about the job and I don’t mind the work, but just need a little guidance about parts and procedure.

I hate the idea of pulling wheel and caliper etc,etc, for I just replaced wheel bearings, pads, all last summer. But I wondering if it would be easier and best to just pull it all and even the fender for easier access and just be done with it.

Car has 354,700 just did right side tie rod end and it was MB.

As always I appreciate your suggestions and experience.
greazer2b

The upper ball joint is integral to the control arm. The lower ball joint is press fit to the steering knuckle.

Then you are really going to love removing and replacing the lower ball joint.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Understatement of the century right there. Just getting it out of the control arm is a nightmare, especially if it's OE. Double the fun, double the pleasure if you live in the rustbelt. Then the fun part of getting it out of the knuckle and getting the new one in begins. I was fortunate to know someone with the tools for that part of the process and happily outsourced mine.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

If you're doing the lower ball-joint, do a search for hints from WHunter on this. It will save you a lot of frustration in removal. Don't drive it out from the top as it may mushroom the tapered section and you will be swearing at it for days. Don't ask me how I know this!

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Fix everything if you go in. Upper, lower, guide rod mount. Be done. Tie rods are easy and done when needed. My sway bar bushings looked new so stayed. Shocks while you're at it if high mileage.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Upper ball joint you replace with the control arm, lower you have to take the spindle completely off and use either the $900 c-clamp tool or the $120 tool from ebay and a press. You will also need a ball joint separator and a special Mercedes spring compressor. A full suspension rebuild plus all the tools to do it will cost far more than all but the best w126s are worth, so make sure you want to keep it a while if you do that lol. You can still get all the parts except for the nuts that hold the guide rod mounts to the car. There were only a couple of them left when i bought some from Mercedes, and the aftermarket ones that come with the kits are not usable.

There is absolutely no need to use a spring compressor when replacing ball joints.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I really do appreciate the input. So from what I hear so far I’m in for the fight of my of life
I want to keep “Alfred” it’s been a Great car for the past 10yrs, we have put 200,00 on it and just can’t let go, OK I’m addicted at least it’s legal

Anyway I agree a little more reading is needed and I always appreciate the suggestions. I agree that it’s going to be bear and it’s like all painful events in life it’s just best to get it all over with at once.

So should I go MB on Control Arm or TRW?
Thx greazer2b

That lower ball joint may teach you some new ways to swear. You've been warned! My SD required a torch to get it to let loose from the control arm, and that was after 2 weeks of daily penetrating oil. They can really get attached if they've been in there a long time.

Check if the upper control arm actually needs replacement before you go all out on it. Neither my SDL nor SD were worn out. I replaced the SDL's arm just out of principle and went with one of the aftermarket brands (can't remember which) and the bushing pin was 4mm too wide for the slot it sits in in the body. I had to cut it down on a cutoff saw to make it fit. On the SD, I left well enough alone and installed new boots and fresh grease. Joints were still tight and the rubber bushing still in good shape.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I took the easy way out on the lower ball joints. Remove the control arms, clean the lowers up then drop the lower off at the local indy who had the Correct tool and have him install both for $50 cash.

The arms were cleaned to the point where he only had to R&R the ball joint. Apparently it is easy with the proper tools (and training). I did this on the 84 and 85SDs. One new upper and lower bolt that holds the control arm to the body was required when doing 2 cars. I would order at least one each so that it doesn't hold up the project.

Immediately get a Sawzall if the bolts don't come out easily. I wasted too much time trying to coax the bolts out. Buy a good set of blades and pull the trigger on the Sawzall. You'll be done in a few minutes without searching the internet for a solution.

Do guide rod mounts while the spring is out. You don't HAVE to but will be glad at how nice it steers when everything is new at once. I didn't do tie rods because mine were good and they are EASY compared to the other stuff.

BE SURE to oil/grease the thread on the spring compressor. I decided that there is no point in trying to rig something when the correct compressor is available for such a cheap price.

You can use threaded rod, washers and perhaps a BFH to get the guide rod taken care of. Easy once you figure out what's needed.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There is nothing easy about that approach. It complicates the job by a factor of about ten.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I have done it twice on two different w126s and I am 100% sure that is not correct unless you do something very unsafe.

Spring compressor is 100% not needed when doing the ball joints on a 126 unless you're doing it wrong. The spring is held in compression by the guide rod and by the shock absorber. If you're removing more hardware to do the job, you're just complicating your own life. It's a bad enough job to do, there's no point making it worse by disassembling the entire front end.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

It was not in this case. Upper control arms had to be replaced as did the lower ball joints and guide rod mounts. On one car, the PO only repaired the minimum to keep it rolling.



New Bilstein comforts on the front with very tired unreadable shocks on the back. New (or rebuilt) brake master with metal scrape on the front pads.


The other car had a patchwork of parts of various age and it wasn't handling well. I intend to keep the car so replaced all on the front end. It drives like new now.


The ball joints weren't going in easily so I got the US Grant tool out and went for a bike ride. Sometimes Grant won't work so his brother Ben comes out. I'm cheap but the brothers do good work while I do something I'd rather do.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.