So I'm going to bite the bullet and have my timing chain replaced as preventive measure. Also the necessary related parts (tensioner, guides, whatever).

I expected to pay about $200 for parts but my independent mechanic says around $400 for the parts. That was unsettling. I'm wondering what the labor will be.

Can anyone give me comparisons? I trust this fellow but didn't expect the cost to be so high.

Nic
'85 300CD @ 150k miles

Hey Nic,
It must be in the S.C. air, I replaced my timing chain on my 300CD last weekend with great results. Have you ever adjusted the valves on your CD? if so I would compare this to putting in a new timing chain. I looked at my tension rails and they all looked like they had about 3/4 of material on them compared to the new ones I had ordered. So, all I replaced was the timing chain it was 4-5 deg. stretched. I didn't have the equipment to get exact specs on the stretch. I did not want to put in a offset key seemed to be a bandaid for a worn part. My Chain cost $70.00 shipped. Once installed the timing marks were dead on (0). The engine has more pep, better idle, sounds better. My MB independant tech. quoted me 700.00 parts and labor. It took me 6 hours most of it putting it back together, I am a clean freak! The next one i feel I can do in 3 and I know it's done right and how it works. There are certain tools that you will need if you attempt the job. GOOD LUCK.

The 617 cast iron engines as you know are almost indestructable. I really wouldn't worry about your timing chain at only 150K. Check back with us at 250 or 300K.

I'm going to do mine with the help of Tom Sweeney here on my 6cyl engine at 272K miles.

Turbo,

You are probably right but I'm afflicted with excessive maintenance disease. I just figure that after 17 years and 150k miles, doing this job is reasonable. I replaced the vacuum pump this spring. Both of those components can fail suddenly (I read) and cause serious injury to the engine's internals. Of course, a new part can fail too....that would be irritating...but I like the odds better.

Headstill,

I'm just not confident in my ability to do this job. I haven't tried the valves but may later. I was able to redo all of my suspension (including the rear trailing arm bushings!) and many other things, but am not ready for engine stuff. Learning as I go type deal. I do find the car easy to work on.

Bye the way, I have a place in McClellanville so we are fairly close neighbors.

Nic

Hey Nic,
Good job on the suspension. Don't be nervous under the hood, even though it looks like a bad science project, the Germans sure built this one right, and it can handle a lot of off- tuning over time from lack of maintenence. I Hope your engine is running like a well tuned sewing machine, however if it is not there are several things that can be done (timing chain, adjusting start of fuel delivery, changing fuel,air filters, adjusting the fuel metering screw) all of these things make a noticable difference in power, idle, sound(quiet). So pop the hood and start with simple procedures (air filter, fuel filter, oil change) YOU CAN DO IT! I recently priced out the above procedures from my local independant, just under $1000.00. I have spent $150.00 in tools and parts that have accomplished the same procedures, and I know it has been done right, engine runs like it was new, very gratifying!
I always make the run in the fall to McClellanville for Oysters and boiled peanuts, the best around! Good luck! let me know if I can help. Steve S.

I was going to have my timing chain replaced. I have the same maintenance affliction that you have. I used a tech that Turbodiesel referred me to. I had him check it out during a valve adjustment. He said "DONT TOUCH IT", it is dead on. My car is a 1977 with 183,000 miles. The tech said that timing chains on the 617's are good for 200M miles if the car has not been maintained very well and almost indefinate if maintained to MB recommendations.

Of course, if you just can't stand it, have it replaced, but you should be OK.

JCD

"Of course, now mine will snap on the way home"

I second JCD's statement.... in addition I would not consider the offset key a " bandaid " approach... because I think a chain will stretch/wear more when first put into service in a given period of time than later, after it has lapped itself smooth... all assuming proper oil and filter changing over the life of the engine... The only distance that matters is only half the length of the chain, the tensioner takes up the extra slack on the other side.... and the injection pump is set independantly... so since MB considers this OK,,, so do I ...

I have the same preventative maintenance affliction as yall do... I tried to get a mechanic to change the oil pump when I first got my 81 wagon... just on principle.. I had done this on Fords, Chevys, Toyatas about every 100k as a matter of principle... he would not do it... and the more I am around MB's the more I am thinking... if not actually broke... leave it alone. It is not easy to think that way , we may need to form a support group for those of us afflicted....and I am only half kidding... Greg

Hey JCD or John,

Where is the shop you guys are using? I'm tired of trying to talk to gas mechanics about deisel engines.
Thanks.

Roxbury Foriegn Auto
RT 46
Kenvil, NJ

Good luck. They sure know diesels.

JCD