Where you reside fortunately for you makes ox/acy not often required. Here without it forget doing many jobs on cars.


I have seen cars in better overall condition in junkyards in the south than those on the roads here.

When I worked at the Naval Shipyard we encountered severely corroded stuff made of Steel but we did not work on vehicles so no issue with something as delicate as a Brake Line or Hose.

Because of the job description we could not use any welding stuff or torches normally so we were left with Chisels, grinders and saws or we had to file a work order and a few days later the guy would show up with a Torch.

When we had nuts that were badly rusted to studs we used a nut splitter or a sharp chisel to split the Nuts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have some vice grips that I use for that. Name brand w/ the straight teeth (not curved), and I notched a bit into the teeth to hold the nut better.
Clamp that b!tch down hard and tap the vice grips with a small hammer to loosen.


* I didn't even replace that brake line fitting after that (all metal line), just coated with anti-sieze and put it back on with the vice grips.

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI

^Yes, thats correct! My bad for mixing it up.

Will put the heat on 'em first and see if I can persuade them to surrender, before an all out dremel assault.

Thats a problem cars makers to-day everthing goes on dry .I never put a bolt on my car without grease or copper slip on .And that goes for alloy wheel nuts . I will never have problems removing wheels on my car .So dont say your not suposed to use lub on wheel nuts -well i do and have done for 50 years .