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  #31  
Old 05-06-2020, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Fluid rushing past an opening can draw in another fluid (air in this case) by aspiration due to the difference in pressure across a gradient. Your temperature sensor for the HVAC works exactly like this, high pressure air is blown through a venturi which has a suction port connected to the sensor. If air can find a way into your system, it will.


It definitely points to your OFV not sealing positively, or having a weeping leak at the banjo bolt. The fluid is seeking an equilibrium with the air. If the OFV were sealed like it should be, fluid cannot leak back through the pump and any air that is in the lines will collect at the top of the secondary fuel filter canister and be burped out harmlessly when the lift pump starts pumping.


Aluminum is softer and more easily distorted than copper, it allows a better seal with less clamping force. There's a reason it's still factory equipment for oil pan drain-plugs that use them. Copper is a good way to strip the threads out of an oil pan since you have to torque it so tight to get a good seal. Formed copper rings are a different story, but you rarely see them for applications like this. Solid copper rings suck for trying to get a perfect seal.
Thanks for this -excellent explanation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hercules View Post
How does air inter hard lines?
Foot valve leak
Injector leak
external leak
Fuel system will return to little or no pressure after a period of time,not hard lines.
Owner, major concern, nailing and missing,air in return lines can not cause this problem!
What is a foot valve?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hercules View Post
My judgement on fuel leak back is defective OFV,yes you have replaced spring and
ball but how about the ball seat.Over the years the seat pounds down, wears and
becomes leaky. Install new valve.
This is my next move. Cheap enough thing to change, though I would like to keep my Greazzer spring...

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  #32  
Old 05-06-2020, 09:06 PM
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Mbz name for foot valve=pressure valve.
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  #33  
Old 05-06-2020, 10:55 PM
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Copy that.

Seems like it would also have to be lift pump valves as well? Or do those spring valves rely on the integrity of the OFV?

I’ve replaced the delivery valves and the springs in my IP. Those are some heavy duty springs and apply (and resist) real pressure. The springs governing the valves in the lift pump were flimsy in comparison. The spring in the OFV was more robust but only marginally.
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  #34  
Old 05-07-2020, 12:19 AM
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The lift pump valves are not tight seal valves,do leak off after a number of minutes,and are low pressure.
OFV, low pressure,keeps pressure in lower part of injection pump so delivery valves may
be filled while engine is running. Too low of pressure engine performance will be noticed.
Some leak back at fuel return will not effect starting or running.
Pressure valve,keeps high press fuel,in hard lines,any leakage in this system will cause
starting or running problems or both. All problems can be found.
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  #35  
Old 05-09-2020, 07:37 PM
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Update:

Went to the junkyard and found a serviceable OFV to swap out.
Took my greazzer spring from the old body and swapped it into the new.
I also went through and replaced all copper crush washers with the original aluminum.

No change.

I think the rough, nailing start was actually the result of a loose glow plug fuse.
So as of now, no running issues, no real startup issues... in fact, this issue of mine doesn’t seem to affect anything. It’s just that it’s not normal —unless anyone reading can confirm it is. Either most people don’t notice these sorts of things, their clear lines are old and opaque, and this is normal or I’m missing something really obvious or truly exotic.

I’m not sure what else to try.
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  #36  
Old 05-09-2020, 09:57 PM
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Post Those Damn Air Bubbles

I'll try to remember to look under the hood, it may be a day or three before I'm near my Mercedes though .

If it starts easily and runs fine I'd think this is a non issue .
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  #37  
Old 05-10-2020, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
Update:
I’m not sure what else to try.
Are all the fuel unions with crush washers "gorilla" tight?

The fuel feed line from the lift pump to the fuel filter head is semi-opaque, so you may not notice air in that line.
You may have an air incursion from the primer pump or the lines leading to the lift pump.

I replace the rubber fuel lines fore and aft of the primary clear filter when it is changed.
The short fuel line from the primary fuel filter to the lift pump tends to leak if re-used.
It is subject quicker deterioration at it is exposed to higher heat levels than
the fuel hose connecting the primary fuel filter to the feed line from the tank.


It looks like you have the "02" fuel filter head.
Maybe the 2 o-rings (2.5mm X 14mm top, 2mm X 10mm bottom) on the large central hollow bolt are not sealing well?

I can send some brown FKM o-rings your way, just send me a PM.
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  #38  
Old 05-10-2020, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
I'll try to remember to look under the hood, it may be a day or three before I'm near my Mercedes though .

If it starts easily and runs fine I'd think this is a non issue .
I'm leaning in this direction -please let me know what you find.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
Are all the fuel unions with crush washers "gorilla" tight?

The fuel feed line from the lift pump to the fuel filter head is semi-opaque, so you may not notice air in that line.
You may have an air incursion from the primer pump or the lines leading to the lift pump.

I replace the rubber fuel lines fore and aft of the primary clear filter when it is changed.
The short fuel line from the primary fuel filter to the lift pump tends to leak if re-used.
It is subject quicker deterioration at it is exposed to higher heat levels than
the fuel hose connecting the primary fuel filter to the feed line from the tank.


It looks like you have the "02" fuel filter head.
Maybe the 2 o-rings (2.5mm X 14mm top, 2mm X 10mm bottom) on the large central hollow bolt are not sealing well?

I can send some brown FKM o-rings your way, just send me a PM.
Thank you, I appreciate that but I just changed those o-rings. There's really nothing left to change at this point. To be honest, I'm not convinced I have an air incursion. I can swap out the cigar line for a length of clear vinyl hose and it's totally bubble free while running at a variety of rpms.

This appears to be some sort of suction based leak back and terminates at a fixed quantity. My guess is when pressure forces have reached some kind of equilibrium.
If I had a graduated cylinder to use as a temporary tank, I'm betting that's where I'd find the missing ml of fuel (20ml if I had to guess).
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2020, 06:36 PM
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Post Fuel Pipe Bubbles

O.K. Shern ;

I drove the car ('82 240D) to get my mail yesterday and popped the hood when I got home, the engine idling and fully warmed up .

The clear plastic pipe from the back of the IP to the filter head had two pea sized round air bubbles in it that jumped back and forth .

I revved the engine and they both marched forward and disappeared into the filter head, when I allowed the engine to return to idle, one slowly bobbled back out where I could see it .

No bubbles anywhere else in these pipes, I replaced them all a year or so ago .

I think you're chasing rainbows here , I hope this is helpful .
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  #40  
Old 05-13-2020, 03:14 AM
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Nate – I appreciate it but that wasn’t the scenario at all. If you’re going to check, please do so after your car has been *turned off* for several hours, not when it’s idling. I don’t have any issues when the car is running. Again, only after it’s been switched off for several hours Will you determine whether you were getting any air in the return line.
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  #41  
Old 05-13-2020, 11:50 AM
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Thumbs up

Okay, will do .
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  #42  
Old 05-13-2020, 03:13 PM
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Just for some added complication and another datapoint, I found my 617 style OFV with the Greazzer spring today while digging through a box of stuff looking for something else. For giggles, I sucked on the IP side of the bolt and was able to suck air through it. Perhaps they don't seal as well as we're thinking.

With that being said, perhaps the cigar hose is the important key here. Maybe what's going on is that there is an air bubble that forms in the cigar hose due to decreased velocity of return flow, then when the engine shuts off, it seeks an equilibrium in the fuel system. If the fuel can very slowly leak back through the OFV bolt, that is definitely possible. If that's the case, and if someone else with clear lines can comment on their own car, it could potentially prove that it's completely a non-issue. That said, I'd expect the air to be bled out after a period of time just from absorption of the fuel flowing past it. Even the bubble in the prefilter eventually reduces to almost nothing after enough runtime.
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  #43  
Old 05-14-2020, 11:08 AM
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I did that too with the two OFVs I had on hand.

Re: equilibrium, I think you're right. Just odd that no one else has noticed this (if it's common place). I put a series of markers on the hose and it always ends up around the same mark. And here's another fun data point I haven't fully explained: the lowest point in the drop can be observed first thing in the morning. However, by noon, on particularly warm days, the level may have moved up an inch. This points to expansion during the heat of the day, or running temp, and contraction during parking/night -but where exactly? The tank? The lines? I imagine in some place that doesn't or can't vent.
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  #44  
Old 05-23-2020, 05:52 PM
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Post A Tiny Bubble Picture

O.K. Shern ;

You've been *very* patient, here's a picture of my 1982 240D's tiny fuel bubble at rest :

Click image for larger version

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It's barely visible, right where the clear plastic tube connects to the brass fitting .

There's some glare there, the bubble in smaller than a chickpea .

I hope this helps allay your concerns .
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  #45  
Old 05-23-2020, 06:59 PM
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Thank you Nate -I'll take whatever I can get, whenever I can get it.
How long after shutoff was that?

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