The hood was slow to open and today it wouldn't. The cable works fine and is connected.

I had a helper pull and hold the cable while I messed with the hood.

Cleaning and lubing was on the list but it has jumped to the top of the list.

85TD with single latch in the center.

Excluding a functional release lever and cable, not that I am aware of.

Additionally:
1. To the right (standing facing the engine) of the release mechanism and above the auxiliary fan is the adjusting assembly that is likely sufficiently out of adjustment that pulling on the cable will not sufficiently release the hood latch.
2. The aforementioned assembly is covered on the bottom and sides by a black plastic casing.
3. Having replaced the hood release cable on two 300Ds, I simply cannot fathom how one would release the hood if the lever--cable combination fails to do so. Perhaps someone knows a way but based on my experience, there is no other way.

I cannot recall exactly how the latch assembly is put together, I had it apart some time ago to clean/grease/adjust. I think as 5cyl says it would be a real painful experience to open from the outside. Mine got a little sticky, sometimes it worked to pull the latch lever (you may have to get someone to hold it) and give the hood a little percussive persuasion. What usually worked was a fairly good fist blow to the drivers rear corner of the hood (not hard enough to dent things!), alternately one could try lifting (lift then push down and lift again sharply - sort of rattling up and down) from the front while the lever is being held.. Sounds totally redneck I know... It is better now after some adjusting and greasing. I had rust at the driver front of the hood where the height adjustment/bumper things are so the hood was sitting a bit crooked. Rigging up a new bumper/adjuster to get the hood level again was probably the most help. Of course there is still the second/safety latch that gets the pull tab broken. That is another fun story.

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1985 300D
The rest:
1957 MGA (comatose)
1965 Falcon (sleeping)
1966 E-100 (rust test in progress)
1976 Ford 3400 D Tractor (workhorse)
1978 Mercury Zephyer (5L playtoy)
1995 Isuzu NPR D (fetcher)
1998 Subaru Legacy (Spare)
2000 Toyota Sienna (School bus)
2008 Toyota Prius (Commuter)

When you say "the cable worked fine" how fine is fine? If it feels tight or hard to pull, it is on its way to cable heaven. On a w123 there should be very little force to open the hood while pulling on the interior release handle. Also keep in mind that lubing the latch on the radiator crossmember does not lub the inside of the cable, which is where it becomes slow-moving and breaks when itīs time. Itīs almost impossible to lube the entire length of the cable, so itīs best to replace it before it breaks when the hood is closed.

Just in case, the latch can be released in a broken cable situation by inserting something long an narrow enough to fit thru the grill slats and pushing on the latch from its right side. New cables are fairly inexpensive.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

I certainly don't intend any offense in asking:
Have you actually tried this technique? If so, it worked, eh?