Hey! I’m Crclerx. I’m new to the forum and I’m really happy to be a part of it. We’ve recently gotten a hold of this 240d that hasn’t run in years. We did finally get it running and running strong. But we can’t get past this damn starting issue.

We’ve initially replaced the starter. No change. Then replaced the starter again, with no change. Then changed all the battery cables with thicker new cables and a new ground cable from the engine to the body. Of course there’s a brand new battery. Still no change. Then tried an overlay from the ignition switch to the “s” spot on the solenoid to bypass everything in the middle like the NSS. We’ve lastly tried the Ford solenoid to bypass the solenoid on the starter trick and still no change. The entire starter diagram has been gone-through and still no change!

90% of the time the starter just clicks ones and lets off. Other times, fewer times, the starter will work I’ll drove off.

I’ve replaced the battery, cables, starter twice, glow plugs (which are fantastic now with starting), the ford solenoid, bypassed all the wiring from the ignition swith to the solenoid. I’ve jumped the solenoid and the starter engages perfectly. But using the ignition switch, it just clicks.

Recently noticed the reverse lights don’t work in reverse.

I am absolutely, completely, positively stumped. I buffet and polished the entire car and it’s so gorgeous but it can’t be trusted still! Do any experts have any advice? I can’t beleive I’ve replaced almost the entire system with no change

I suspect you still have a ground problem.

Is there an engine to body ground strap? It had one originally so needs a good one.

Also might need an additional ground strap from starter to ground point. I think I an one from the starter mount bolt to the chassis.

Any time I encounter a goofy electrical problem I suspect the ground.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The ground point for the alternator is just the mounting bolts, I added a wire from a bolt on the alternator housing to the negative battery cable at the chassis.

Check shift rod bushings, incorrect shift rod length from worn/missing bushings can cause the NSS to be mis-adjusted, resulting in a starter lockout and lack of reverse lights.

The reverse relay is in the NSS, could be the contacts have fused.
Lastly, the electrical portion of the ignition switch maybe at fault.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

On the W123 turbo 300D there is a terminal block on the fender well so it is easy to jump from there and see if the symptoms are the same as when you use the Key. So it was easy to verify it was not the neutral safety switch or the ignition/starter circuit casein the issue.

When I had this symptom I bought new brushes and a new Bosch Starter solenoid. And when I got inside of the Starter the Brushes were severely worn out.
One of our Members said that if the brushes are worn out the Solenoid won't work right. To find out I replaced the Brushes and re-used the solenoid. That was around Oct 2019 and there has been zero issues with the reused Solenoid. So it was the brushes that were the issue.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I might test the starter in place several ways. Chain store starters are hit and miss. They get aftermarket poor solinoids or the rebuilder does not replace the solenoid. As the original ones are expensive. Went through this with Volkswagon diesel starters.


Not saying this is the problem but keep it in mind.

There is the stock engine to body ground strap, but I’ve also added one from the body directly to where the starter mounts to the engine. Still no change. I suspect it helped but not enough...

I’ve started to assume the NSS is faulty but not in the way I think it is. As I mentioned, I overlaid the circuit from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid which would bypass everything in the middle and with no change

I’ve noted this. That’s why we’re on the second new starter. However, if I jump the starter with,say a screwdriver (yes I know. Don’t scold me) the starter is strong and works perfectly. That’s why I’d assume the contacts in the solenoid. But to address that, I used a ford starter solenoid to bypass the one on the starter. And yet with still no change...

That was my original guess but I’m two new starters deep now

Also, everyone, I really appreciate the effort and time to help. Glad there’s good guys out there who still want to help. I’ve been a mechanic with ford for 5 years and some guys just dont want to help.

Find the terminal box on the right inner fender well and jumper it using an open paper clip ~ it that works reliably use your Fort relay to pass the key's current directly from the battery to the original solenoid trigger wire ~ that's the red one under the phillips screw .

Don't sweat using a screwdriver for testing, also open needle nose pliers, nickles and so on .

This is fiddly and it can be the NSS failing or the electrical portion of the key switch .

Most enthusiasts here like to keep it pristine and original but not always possible for everyone, the Ford solenoid is a common repair / fix for many systems .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I’ve looked for the terminal mentioned. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem I have one. The wiring goes straight from inside the cabin following a single harness that splits to the starter and to the alternator. I have done an overlay of the trigger wire and jumped the solenoid entirely

Sorry I did not read what you said closely. "Recently noticed the reverse lights don’t work in reverse." The Neutral Safety Switch also controls the revers lights going on unless the both reverse light bulbs happen to be turned out.

On mine the Engine to Chassis Ground strap is under the car right where the Bell Housing and the Engine Block come together. Which on US cares is on the left side.
If the strap is not all corroded remove the ends and clean the strap and the contact areas on the Block and chassis.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Only the 300D turbo diesels from the up to 1985 have the terminal block on the fender well.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have cleaned the ground strap and as mentioned before, added a second ground strap.. still searching for a cure unfortunately...