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  #1  
Old 01-25-2021, 04:47 AM
cmac2012's Avatar
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Location: Redwood City, CA
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Aftermarket remote locking system for W123

I bought a remote system on e-Bay for my SDL that has worked fine for a couple of years. I hooked it up to that device in the trunk that might have been the vacuum generator, was never sure about that.

The W123/617 of course has a mechanical pump at the front of the engine. Has anyone made one work with this car? Where would one attach such a thing on the 123?

I found this one online, advertised to work with pneumatic systems:

https://tntautotuning.com/en/slk.html

I also found this one for about 4 - 5 times the money:

https://www.ebay.com/i/152758473221?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=152758473221&targetid=1068323860310&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032020&poi=&campaignid=11612431353&mkgroupid=114626995633&rlsatarget=pla-1068323860310&abcId=9300456&merchantid=114800396&gclid=CjwKCAiA9bmABhBbEiwASb35Vzv_dzUX59fpSe1dxMDGdJjktxlyHTrAGNxFo0mI3oBEt9KeqQDlLxoCgxkQAvD_BwE

The former a British item, the pounds translate to about $30, shipping will add some, the latter $175 with shipping.

The unit I put in my SDL cost me $30 on e-Bay.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Last edited by cmac2012; 01-25-2021 at 11:34 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-25-2021, 09:58 AM
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The issue with the 123 and earlier cars is that the door lock system is entirely mechanical, relying on stored vacuum and a physical door lock vacuum switch. You would literally need a module in the door or trunk with physical switchover valves to mimic the behavior of the master lock switch. Your SDL has an electric pump in the trunk for the door locks and works on a different principle.
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Current stable:
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  #3  
Old 01-25-2021, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
Has anyone made one work with this car?
Speaking for myself and M-B people I've known: No.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
Where would one attach such a thing on the 123?
An outstanding question that I have absolutely no answer to largely based upon the following:
While I have had a fairly good life considering the possibilities, one bit of misfortune that has befallen me is having to delve DEEPLY into the factory-installed alarm system on my 1985 300D. Especially deeply into the locking-alarm assemblies in the doors. In a gesture to politeness, I will only say this: Whoever designed the alarm switch for the locing system...I know it was the early 1980s, but please, that's some especially weird doings.

Personally, and this is coming from someone who has spent around three decades working on the W123-617, knowing what I know, I am either too gutless or too wise to consider fooling around anymore with the vehicle's locking system. Too much like cardiac surgery - far too crazy for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
I found this one online, advertised to work with pneumatic systems:

https://tntautotuning.com/en/slk.html

I also found this one for about 4 - 5 times the money:

https://tntautotuning.com/en/slk.html
These two URLS appear to be the same and yield the same information. ???

Bottom line for me? Each time I use my master key to lock/unlock my vehicle, I am grateful and peacefully go along my way in life.

Your mileage, as the phrase goes, may vary.
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  #4  
Old 01-25-2021, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The issue with the 123 and earlier cars is that the door lock system is entirely mechanical, relying on stored vacuum and a physical door lock vacuum switch. You would literally need a module in the door or trunk with physical switchover valves to mimic the behavior of the master lock switch. Your SDL has an electric pump in the trunk for the door locks and works on a different principle.
Read my signature. All my cars have keyless remote, including w123 and 84 190D. However you need an actuator at the driver door for both cars.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2021, 11:43 AM
cmac2012's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 35,450
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5cylinder View Post
Speaking for myself and M-B people I've known: No.

An outstanding question that I have absolutely no answer to largely based upon the following:

While I have had a fairly good life considering the possibilities, one bit of misfortune that has befallen me is having to delve DEEPLY into the factory-installed alarm system on my 1985 300D. Especially deeply into the locking-alarm assemblies in the doors. In a gesture to politeness, I will only say this: Whoever designed the alarm switch for the locing system...I know it was the early 1980s, but please, that's some especially weird doings.

Personally, and this is coming from someone who has spent around three decades working on the W123-617, knowing what I know, I am either too gutless or too wise to consider fooling around anymore with the vehicle's locking system. Too much like cardiac surgery - far too crazy for me.

These two URLS appear to be the same and yield the same information. ???

Bottom line for me? Each time I use my master key to lock/unlock my vehicle, I am grateful and peacefully go along my way in life.

Your mileage, as the phrase goes, may vary.
Oops, late night insomnia posting. Fixed it.

The earlier part is a bit sobering. The keyless entry thing is handy but you have to ask yourself if spending hours and hours to make one happen is worth the seconds you save each day when you open the car.

On my SDL, the driver door cartridge went bad, I considered that a keyless system would cost less and be nifty so off I went. I always carred the original door key (different from ignition) as it still worked the passenger door and trunk (sort of on the latter). Would be stupid to be stuck out of your car because your remote battery went out.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2021, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
Oops, late night insomnia posting. Fixed it.

The earlier part is a bit sobering. The keyless entry thing is handy but you have to ask yourself if spending hours and hours to make one happen is worth the seconds you save each day when you open the car.

On my SDL, the driver door cartridge went bad, I considered that a keyless system would cost less and be nifty so off I went. I always carred the original door key (different from ignition) as it still worked the passenger door and trunk (sort of on the latter). Would be stupid to be stuck out of your car because your remote battery went out.
It worth every pennies and sweat to install keyless remote. I may be biased. However, it must be a convenient feature most, if not all, new cars have it.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2021, 12:25 PM
cmac2012's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Redwood City, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
Read my signature. All my cars have keyless remote, including w123 and 84 190D. However you need an actuator at the driver door for both cars.
I was thinking that might be what was needed. My BMW E30 had electromagnetic actuators for door locking, I had to replace one, not sure I could use one of those, might need more pushing power for the MB pneumatic system. I installed a remote system in the Bimmer as well, it's easier to know you locked the car when you gear that audible click.

I'm guessing you know a thing or two about actuators that would be sufficient for the task.
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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K
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  #8  
Old 01-25-2021, 01:18 PM
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Might not be what you want to hear but on my 450SEL (W116), I completely abandoned the vacuum system. There were enough leaks and broken hoses that it would never have worked without all new components. I installed electric actuators in each door and the control module under the dash.

Was it original? No. Was it a pain to run wires all over the car? Yes, yes it was. Did it work every single time, in the cold, in the heat, after sitting for weeks? Yes it did.

Mine came from A1 Electric and wasn't cheap at $150 but it had "Swiss made" MES actuators and I was easily impressed.

Michael
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  #9  
Old 01-25-2021, 04:14 PM
cmac2012's Avatar
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In my case I'm still working on getting the vacuum tight. The doors don't lock in unison at present except occasionally. I need to fix that before a keyless set up could work.

But I want the vacuum tightened up so my brakes work well. Now it takes much pressure at stop lights. I almost always put it in park, to easy to start creeping and not know it. And it hurts my foot to press like hell for 30 to 90 seconds. I've heard good vacuum can improve tranny and climate control behavior as well.
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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K
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  #10  
Old 01-25-2021, 05:35 PM
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123 doesn't have an actuator for the drivers door so you need one electric actuator for the drivers door if you want remote locking.
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  #11  
Old 01-25-2021, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250 Coupe View Post
Might not be what you want to hear but on my 450SEL (W116), I completely abandoned the vacuum system...
This may sound strange but one reason why I drive old benzes is because I love vacuum door locks

They work good on cars like the 126 or 124 because they have a separate electric pump and there is only one line going to the actuator (pump can either create vacuum or generate pressure depending on if you want to open or close). Even with a small leak they still work.

On older models like the 123 etc.. where it relies on storing the engine vacuum without leaks for it to work properly and you have 2 lines to the actuator then obviously it's not going to be as reliable.
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2021, 12:44 AM
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I have these and I'm happy with them for the last 5 years. What I like best is it's a simple lock system. No beep-boop alarm, useless extra buttons or trunk popper BS. The only external function is a marker light flasher to show lock/unlock. I used two diodes so both light sides could flash without crossing over when using the right/left parking light function.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N57OC68
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2021, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felching View Post
I have these and I'm happy with them for the last 5 years. What I like best is it's a simple lock system. No beep-boop alarm, useless extra buttons or trunk popper BS. The only external function is a marker light flasher to show lock/unlock. I used two diodes so both light sides could flash without crossing over when using the right/left parking light function.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N57OC68
That's close to what I plan to install in the 300SD. Mine is the one with the chrome trim around the remote, B07JWF5GCS. I did install one actuator in the drivers door. It is connected to the rod the lock knob is screwed onto. It will duplicate the action of pulling the knob up to unlock and pushing it down to lock. That will trigger the fully functional vacuum central locking system. And mine came with the diodes allowing connection to either the parking lights or the turn signals.

Michael
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Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2021, 01:10 AM
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Another option is to forgo the actuator and switch to use a passive flip-flop relay in their place.



https://www.amazon.com/ELECTRONICS-SALON-Passive-Bistable-Latching-RT424F12/dp/B00M91QO94/
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  #15  
Old 01-27-2021, 02:15 AM
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I don't understand how that works.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K
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