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Aftermarket remote locking system for W123
I bought a remote system on e-Bay for my SDL that has worked fine for a couple of years. I hooked it up to that device in the trunk that might have been the vacuum generator, was never sure about that.
The W123/617 of course has a mechanical pump at the front of the engine. Has anyone made one work with this car? Where would one attach such a thing on the 123? I found this one online, advertised to work with pneumatic systems: https://tntautotuning.com/en/slk.html I also found this one for about 4 - 5 times the money: https://www.ebay.com/i/152758473221?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=152758473221&targetid=1068323860310&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032020&poi=&campaignid=11612431353&mkgroupid=114626995633&rlsatarget=pla-1068323860310&abcId=9300456&merchantid=114800396&gclid=CjwKCAiA9bmABhBbEiwASb35Vzv_dzUX59fpSe1dxMDGdJjktxlyHTrAGNxFo0mI3oBEt9KeqQDlLxoCgxkQAvD_BwE The former a British item, the pounds translate to about $30, shipping will add some, the latter $175 with shipping. The unit I put in my SDL cost me $30 on e-Bay.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 01-25-2021 at 11:34 AM. |
#2
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The issue with the 123 and earlier cars is that the door lock system is entirely mechanical, relying on stored vacuum and a physical door lock vacuum switch. You would literally need a module in the door or trunk with physical switchover valves to mimic the behavior of the master lock switch. Your SDL has an electric pump in the trunk for the door locks and works on a different principle.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#3
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Speaking for myself and M-B people I've known: No.
An outstanding question that I have absolutely no answer to largely based upon the following: While I have had a fairly good life considering the possibilities, one bit of misfortune that has befallen me is having to delve DEEPLY into the factory-installed alarm system on my 1985 300D. Especially deeply into the locking-alarm assemblies in the doors. In a gesture to politeness, I will only say this: Whoever designed the alarm switch for the locing system...I know it was the early 1980s, but please, that's some especially weird doings. Personally, and this is coming from someone who has spent around three decades working on the W123-617, knowing what I know, I am either too gutless or too wise to consider fooling around anymore with the vehicle's locking system. Too much like cardiac surgery - far too crazy for me. Quote:
Bottom line for me? Each time I use my master key to lock/unlock my vehicle, I am grateful and peacefully go along my way in life. Your mileage, as the phrase goes, may vary. |
#4
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Quote:
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#5
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Quote:
The earlier part is a bit sobering. The keyless entry thing is handy but you have to ask yourself if spending hours and hours to make one happen is worth the seconds you save each day when you open the car. On my SDL, the driver door cartridge went bad, I considered that a keyless system would cost less and be nifty so off I went. I always carred the original door key (different from ignition) as it still worked the passenger door and trunk (sort of on the latter). Would be stupid to be stuck out of your car because your remote battery went out.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
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Quote:
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#7
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Quote:
I'm guessing you know a thing or two about actuators that would be sufficient for the task.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
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Might not be what you want to hear but on my 450SEL (W116), I completely abandoned the vacuum system. There were enough leaks and broken hoses that it would never have worked without all new components. I installed electric actuators in each door and the control module under the dash.
Was it original? No. Was it a pain to run wires all over the car? Yes, yes it was. Did it work every single time, in the cold, in the heat, after sitting for weeks? Yes it did. Mine came from A1 Electric and wasn't cheap at $150 but it had "Swiss made" MES actuators and I was easily impressed. Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#9
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In my case I'm still working on getting the vacuum tight. The doors don't lock in unison at present except occasionally. I need to fix that before a keyless set up could work.
But I want the vacuum tightened up so my brakes work well. Now it takes much pressure at stop lights. I almost always put it in park, to easy to start creeping and not know it. And it hurts my foot to press like hell for 30 to 90 seconds. I've heard good vacuum can improve tranny and climate control behavior as well.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#10
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123 doesn't have an actuator for the drivers door so you need one electric actuator for the drivers door if you want remote locking.
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#11
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Quote:
They work good on cars like the 126 or 124 because they have a separate electric pump and there is only one line going to the actuator (pump can either create vacuum or generate pressure depending on if you want to open or close). Even with a small leak they still work. On older models like the 123 etc.. where it relies on storing the engine vacuum without leaks for it to work properly and you have 2 lines to the actuator then obviously it's not going to be as reliable. |
#12
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I have these and I'm happy with them for the last 5 years. What I like best is it's a simple lock system. No beep-boop alarm, useless extra buttons or trunk popper BS. The only external function is a marker light flasher to show lock/unlock. I used two diodes so both light sides could flash without crossing over when using the right/left parking light function.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N57OC68 |
#13
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Quote:
Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#14
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Another option is to forgo the actuator and switch to use a passive flip-flop relay in their place.
https://www.amazon.com/ELECTRONICS-SALON-Passive-Bistable-Latching-RT424F12/dp/B00M91QO94/ |
#15
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I don't understand how that works.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
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