Diesel pron - Post some pics of your latest projects here - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

resago2000 · #1 01-29-2021, 12:55 PM

1977 240D 616.916 Engine
Sanden Compressor and pf Condenser AC Upgrade
Vacuum pump delete
Electric fans
Dorman air box with WIX filter
100Amp 1-wire Alternator

Post some pics of your latest projects here

moon161 · #2 01-29-2021, 04:03 PM

How's it stop w/ no vacuum pump? Is it Greazer's car where he did that?

resago2000 · #3 01-29-2021, 04:07 PM

electric vacuum pump for brakes. shutoff and other vacuum accessories use manifold vacuum, works fine that way.

moon161 · #4 01-29-2021, 04:10 PM

That's cool. Can I ask what the pump is off of? Other people have tried that w/ mixed results

resago2000 · #5 01-29-2021, 04:22 PM

its a ford clone from aliexpress, it runs off a relay and vacuum switch.
you can see the relay and vacuum switch

moon161 · #6 01-29-2021, 06:36 PM

NICE

cmac2012 · #7 01-30-2021, 01:25 PM

The electrical pump works just fine on my SDL. It's at 360K plus now, no problems with it during my 60K tenure.

What are the advantages of the delete? Of course one thinks it might be a power parasite, OTOH, engine power is used to produce the power that operates the electric unit.

Rogviler · #8 01-30-2021, 01:31 PM

The vacuum pump being one of the main ticking time bombs on this era of engine is the main reason I've always wanted to go electric. But I haven't seen many successes with an electric pump and an auto transmission.

cmac2012 · #9 01-30-2021, 03:32 PM

The shifting on my SDL is adequate but it's odd Too rapid at points in the spectrum. Not sure how much of that is age related. I've not driven an outstanding low mileage example of that car I regret to say.

Right now the shifting on my 300D is really poor, I have a large vacuum leak I have yet to fix, the description is too long but I do a lot of it manually and even that is poor. It often will not go into first even going up a hill, no matter what I do with the shifter. Pressing and lifting on the accelerator will sometimes pull it off.

Rogviler · #10 01-30-2021, 09:19 PM

The main thing I've seen is that an electric pump burns out since it's running constantly with an auto transmission. If you haven't had that problem then that's a start.

Junkman · #11 01-30-2021, 10:30 PM

The last vac pump I bought for a 617 was around $300 from Mercedes. There used to be some from the OE manufacturer but they are gone as are repair parts.

I've added them to my grab list when I find them in the yard.

An electric work around would be welcome if it would work with a 722 trans.

WDBCB20 · #12 01-31-2021, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

The last vac pump I bought for a 617 was around $300 from Mercedes. There used to be some from the OE manufacturer but they are gone as are repair parts.

I've added them to my grab list when I find them in the yard.
.

One of the few harbingers of the obsolescence looming for these cars as daily drivers. Unless 3D printing eventually becomes cheap enough for low volume or one off runs and can produce the internal wear parts.

cmac2012 · #13 02-01-2021, 02:45 AM

On the thread topic, the latest project I put in one of my diesels is a bit tame, nothing like some of what I see from other guys here, no intercooler for my 617 complete with exhaust gas temp sensor. But it is a diesel device and I'm quite pleased with the results.

Some of you may have seen this device on the web site of he who shall not be named or linked, up yonder in my old home state of WA:

A glow plug relay bypass/delete, replaced by a simple manually controlled setup. Looking at the whole thing more closely, I almost wonder at why I didn't think of it myself. It's a simple device, wouldn't have been hard to figure out on my own. But I didn't, it wasn't too much (just over $100 with shipping) and there was a trick I learned that I don't think I would have thought of. Plus I was in a hurry to get this car running.

These two pics show the whole thing pretty much, it's mounted close to the location of the stock relay:

Just a simple relay with the glow plugs hooked on one side and the power line that was used in the stock relay on the other. That and a skinny black wire that sends the signal to close the relay. The rectangular black box in the lower part of the photo contains one of the same fuses the stock relay uses. He mentioned that the relay needed to ground to its mounting position but that paint can make for a poor connection and one might need to sand a bit of it. I'm thinking no kidding and after drilling the holes put a 36 grit disk in my angle grinder and shined up the whole area.

That skinny black wire is part of the trick I referred to. He referred to accessing switched power to activate the solenoid. Only makes sense, bumping the button at odd times with the key off would only wear out the solenoid though for all I know it'll outlast me. But it's only needed with power on anyway. But I'm thinking, oh boy, I'll hunt under the dash for a wire that looks like it might be switched hot, strip a small part of it and test it. But he also mentioned that getting it from the fuse box was his preferred method, adding that his favorite source was the wiper/washer circuit. And he enclosed a photo of the trick.

The trick can be seen in my photos - you use a regular slide on low voltage elec. clip to attach to the backside of the outer copper leaf the fuse pushes on, not sure what you would call one of those. I also tapered the top of the leaf down a bit with my dremel tool and a small carbide bit, about an eight" dia, it's all I could get in there. I took three fuses out and at slow speed it did all right. Those copper bits are not hefty nor tough, had to be gentle. But they're not thick so the material came off in fine slow fashion at the lowest Dremel speed w/o shaking and moving all to hell.

I had to flare the connector out a bit and then crimp it a bit. Holds good and tight and doesn't impair the wiper function. You can't see it in the pic but off to the right, on the edge of the part underneatch the cover I saw some daylight down to area under the dash and was able to fish the wire through it and on to the little pushbutton switch I mounted to the left of the steering wheel on the lower panel. What a deal I'm thinking, the new wire stays under the cover. Not sure if all W123s use a fuse box cover like mine:

Sorta nifty and safe, a bit hard to put back on.

Why I put the bypass in is a long story. But damn, it works great. I'm looking forward to trying it out on some 15 degree morning up north.