Continuing my "stripping 1983 300D" post, it came with a transmission (no engine) which I wanted to store for the future. The transmission case was cracked and thus useless, so I gutted it for the internal "hard parts" and to fit it all in a plastic bin. These can be hard to procure if rebuilding one and you find wear. Similar salvaging of hard parts saved me in rebuilding my 1996 Plymouth transmission years ago, which also had a cracked case (accident). My 1985 CA 300D uses a 722.4xx transmission, so unsure what parts would work in it, but I also own a 1983 300D (722.3xx).

I just post photos and a few comments on disassembly tricks, with no analysis of what the parts do. A definitive explanation is in Stretch's post. He likes to "take it to bits". His 722.118 transmission looks a little different inside.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304903-722-118-automatic-transmission-rebuild-monster-diy.html

The tail end was a little. Fortunately, Harbor Freight had a set of 12-pt impact sockets for the end nut. The end of the nut is pinned to a slot in the shaft. After fussing trying to bend that back, I just let my Earthquake impact wrench force the nut to turn. I used the small pry-bar and screwdriver shown to spread and remove the C-ring on the tail shaft. The front pump came out easy, w/ no pullers or fuss, though I noticed there as some tapped holes to install pulling rings if needed. You are just working against a large circumferential rubber ring seal which might have hardened.

All external piston covers but the one above the PN stamp (shown) were easy to remove, with weak springs behind them. For that one (B2?, see Stretch), I should have forced the cap in before trying to pry out the retaining ring. As is, I buggered up the case groove in prying the ring out (worked fine for the others), then the cap flew out under the strong spring force behind it. The case is scrap metal anyway. Looks like I forgot to take photos after removing the valve body. The clutch plates appeared hardly worn (didn't measure), suggesting the transmission might have been rebuilt. I don't know the history. The 300D had been abandoned at a paint shop (nice new paint) and appeared well-maintained from parts I saw. I got it sans engine, doors, and seats after a guy's son bought it for the engine to put in an off-roader.

Re the transmission design, my only reference are the two I previously rebuilt - 1996 Plymouth A-413 "torqueflite" (3-spd hydraulic shift, same as my 1965 Dodge) and 2002 Chrysler A-604 (4-spd electronic shift). This M-B design appears in-between the two. In the front clutch pack, the steel plates "ground" against the case, as in my A-604 (no bands), while the rear clutch plate housing is grounded by a band (all clutch plates in my A-413). Chrysler doesn't use vacuum pistons like M-B does. I think old Ford transmissions had similar vacuum pistons since you see similar round bulges in the case. In the A-413, shifts are controlled by spinning weights which control hydraulic pressures, plus throttle input (similar to M-B Bowden cable). The A-604 uses electronic rpm pickups to control shifts via a computer and solenoid-pack which bolts to the case, as I think all current transmissions do. The internal parts appeared well-designed (perhaps over-designed), using many forgings where a simpler stamped sheet-metal part might have sufficed, but that is typical in these old 300D cars.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

more photos

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__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans