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Old 05-29-2021, 10:51 AM
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Injector R & R question

Hi folks,

Gonna be puling the injectors on an 83 300D to install new nozzles and get them balanced and tested. My question is about starting the car up after the new injectors are installed. I'm sure there is gonna be a lot of air in the system that needs to be purged out and I don't want to tax my starter too much to get it running again. For the life of me I cannot remember how I dealt with it several years ago when I last did injector work.

Do you just crack each hard line at the injector one at a time and crank until fuel comes out? I think that was how I handled it before.

Thanks,

Glenn

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2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
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1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2021, 11:36 AM
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Yes.

Or just do nothing and crank for 20 seconds. It'll start fine.

In my experience, the only time you need to crack the lines is if you've drained the pump (injection timing, OFV, Delivery valves, etc). Removing the hardlines alone isn't that big of a deal...


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  #3  
Old 05-29-2021, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Hi folks,

Gonna be puling the injectors on an 83 300D to install new nozzles and get them balanced and tested. My question is about starting the car up after the new injectors are installed. I'm sure there is gonna be a lot of air in the system that needs to be purged out and I don't want to tax my starter too much to get it running again. For the life of me I cannot remember how I dealt with it several years ago when I last did injector work.

Do you just crack each hard line at the injector one at a time and crank until fuel comes out? I think that was how I handled it before.

Thanks,

Glenn
When you install the Injectors run the hard line nuts at the Injectors down as far as then can go and back them off a little so air can escape. Crank the Engine till you see Fuel coming out of all of them and tighten the Nuts and attempt to start after you do your glow plug sequence.

Some people do that a little differently but that is the simplest explanation.
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:53 AM
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If you haven't done it in a while, now would be a good time to do a compression test. Not really needed but just as a preventative maintenance/informative kind of thing.
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Old 05-29-2021, 07:56 PM
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Thanks for the replies folks, and yes I plan on doing a compression test while they are out and possibly a Kroil or MMO soak.

Glenn
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:16 PM
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Thanks for the replies folks, and yes I plan on doing a compression test while they are out and possibly a Kroil or MMO soak.

Glenn
I did the MMO soak on my Volvo Diesel that had hazy gray smoke all of the time and it worked. I did it on the Mercedes and it did nothing but I also was having no issues with the Mercedes. Just did it to see if it would change anything.

I drained the Oil after I did the soaks.

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