No, I'm afraid that I didn't, can you clean it without taking it off?

I put the grease through the sensor hole!

But wait it gets better, the code I'm reading with my scanner is the same wheel but different. The code now says right front speed sensor check wiring/plug connection.

So now I'm wondering if the wire where I plugged the new sensor wire into is defective.

Where does that wire go that is mounted behind the wheel well, and is it hard to replace?

Ok well remove all the grease you applied re-clean and reassemble. With the sensor bolted in then put the dielectric greas all around to seal the join sort of.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

As was suggested, clean the resonance ring well with brake clean through the wheel speed sensor hole with the sensor out of course. One thing to note when servicing these cars is to always disconnect the neg battery post. If you dont, and you are spinning the wheel/tire, even with the car off, the ecu usually picks up a differential in speed between the speed sensor you are working on and the other 3 which are not moving and throws a code. The codes usually self clear after a few miles or start/run cycles. It's worth mentioning, because often suspension work or brake work is done without doing this, and as the parts get manipulated codes get thrown, more of a future FYI.

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

No, I'm afraid that I didn't, can you clean it without taking it off?..Is it difficult to clean or do you just spray a cleaner in the sensor hole while rotating the wheel?

Thanks

Remove sensor use a wire brush or wheel clean up the mounting surface that makes the ground. Pick as best you can the insert hole if you have compressed air use it. I use some dialectic grease then mount and tighten.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Well, I did everything that you said, bought extra strength brake clean, a $12.00 can of dielectric grease and used my air compressor. I applied the brake clean while slowly rotating the front wheel hub, waited for it to dry then blow out dust with compressed air than apllied the grease. Fault still remains, what might I be doing incorrectly?

Describe how and where you put the grease?

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Might be due to one of the other causes listed in the attached article.

BAS ESP ABS Mercedes-Benz – MB Medic

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

So, I gave up as it was frustrating driving my car in this condition and took it to an independent shop that is really good. Long story short it's the wheel bearings, I have ordered the hubs for both front wheels and will attempt to install them this weekend. I hope that the hubs install fairly easily.

Why would you order hubs? I thought you needed wheel bearings? You would also need a inner grease seal try to get a oem one that ensures they will have the bumps or resonator ring. You will need to pack the bearings then adjust the preload.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

I was going to order the hubs, I don't have to. As I understand it, the wheel bearing races have to be pressed in which requires a hydraulic press. The indy wants $480 to install the right side only, which should allow my ESP light to go out. Last time I changed a wheel bearing was on a W123 chassis and I just beat the races out and installed new ones and the bearings. It appears that it is much more labor intensive on the W211

It's the same you can beat on the races but you must press in the grease seal or the tone ring gets damaged, very easy to do with a large clamp and wood..

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the brake light switch. That is a common cause for that issue, at least on the older Benzes. I'd try that before getting into a bunch of expensive and difficult repairs.

At 500 bucks a pop you can bet that I'll be doing th other side, even if I have to replace the reluctor ring. I use the car doily so I felt like I was over a barrel. If you have and information about what size C clamp etc, I would be greatly appreciative.