Will try to post info I've found from my recent front suspension project, still ongoing.


E300d 1995


Neither of the new Mercedes brand tie rod or center/drag link assemblies came with the nuts.

Part numbers I found are, regrettably these nuts seem to be rare:

910113012002 replaces 913002012002 Drag link nuts ( M12-1.25 locking type )

913002010010 tie rod nuts ( M10-1.0 locking type )

If replacing a tie rod assembly the clamp with bolt and nut goes to the inside the other end with a hex nut goes towards the outside wheel. This is probably for alignment ease of adjustment plus possibly clearance issues.

Part numbers associated with numbers in diagram: ( These can change depending on the year and model, such as the 4matic that appears to be beefier )

1. 1243300803 left/drivers side tie rod assembly new Mercedes brand tie rod assemblies have HEYD brand ball joints
1243300902 right side tie rod assembly

2. 0003385110 left outer tie rod
0003385410 right outer tie rod

3. 0003385610 left inner tie rod
0003385910 right inner tie rod

4. 1244601205 center / drag link appears to not be rebuildable, ball joints are crimped in

5. 1244630432 steering damper shock absorber

6. 1244631210 Idler arm

7. 1244600119 Idler Arm repair kit

8. 1244606201 Steering gear box
Some associated front control arm part numbers:

1243303107 Right control arm
1243303007 Left control arm
1243300675 control arm bushing set for one control arm, if you're rebuilding one you have
1243330327 Ball joint, if you're rebuilding one
2013300018 Big bolt eccentric with nut and washer ( M14 - 1.5 Locking type nut )
1243212204 Spring, big one
2023211084 Spring pad, top two burl / tab version original

Hub / brake related
914125 006501 small screw to hold on brake dust shield ( M6-1.0 10 )
124 420 14 44 Right brake dust shield
124 420 13 44 Left brake dust shield


Strut related
1243201444 Strut mount, Swag brand appears to be same quality of MB
124 323 01 92 Strut boot dust cover, wide opening is placed over two large bottom tabs of strut mount, not the two ridged ones
124 323 07 44 Strut bump stop, flat top goes up bumps inside strut mount, coned end goes down towards shock
201 323 62 40 retaining strap for bottom of strut boot, top of strut boot connected to strut mount, plastic circle that might come with new strut shock
910113 014001 nut for top of strut, goes above strut mount

1245461743 ABS sensor bracket for bottom of strut Right side
1245461643 ABS sensor bracket for bottom of strut Left drivers side

Wheel related
Wheel related part numbers

six hole 1995 E300D Wheel 1244012102
Center plastic star insert 2014010226

2013300251 kit for one wheel, bearings, seal, screw, cap

0229975137 Bearing seal
0009815805 inner bigger bearing includes cone and cup
0009815905 outer smaller bearing includes cone and cup
LM11949 cone bigger bearing Original NTN Japan
LM11910 cup
LM67048 cone outer smaller trying to verify this
LM57010 cup trying to verify this

Sway bar related

Mercedes brand bushings have teflon liner to reduce/eliminate squeaking, they should not be lubricated

124 323 56 85 inner rubber bushings, connects sway bar to frame
124 323 49 85 outer rubber bushings, connects sway bar to control arm

Sway bar bracket nuts ( M8-1.25 locking type )





If you spot any errors please let me know.

What I suggest

Use wheel well trim screw/washer to hang brake caliper, loosen/tighten with 10mm tool

Remove plastic insert from bottom of strut to gain clearance to loosen and tighten top caliper bolt. Plastic insert used to hold sensor wires for ABS and brake wear sensors.

The right side center link nut has very little clearance above for a torque wrench and socket. I purchased a short 3/8 19mm socket this morning and believe that will work with my 3/8 torque wrench. Best to torque this before installing tie rod.

Use the smaller 3/8th socket and extension to tighten and loosen the Spring compressor. Less chance of getting socket edge hung up on control arm when trying to remove it.

Torque values I've found so far: ( use new self locking nuts and bolts if possible, use threadlocker blue better than nothing if not new)

M12 drag link nuts 50 nm 37 ft lb Properly torque these before installing the tie rods, Access is difficult if done after tie rods installed
M10 tie rod nuts 35 nm 25 ft lb
Steering damper 35 - 40 nm 25 - 30 ft lb
Control arm big bolts 120 nm 89 ft lb don't tighten much until car weight on the suspension, then tighten and torque to spec
torsion / sway bar nuts 20 nm 15 ft lb tighten enough to hold retaning bracket in place, then torque with car weight on the suspension

Strut related section 32-100

top nut 60 nm
bottom short bolts 110 nm tighten first ( 110 nm also called for in new Bilstein strut instructions )
top bolt with washer & nut 110 nm if M12 tighten last
200 nm if M14
strut mount 3 top nuts 20 nm

Some more steering knuckle related

Ball joint retaining bolt, bottom of knuckle 125 nm
Brake dust shield 10 nm
Knucle arm for tie rod 80 nm
Steering Stop pin 45 nm
Two bolts for calipers 115 nm M12 - 1.5 thread size, no washer s/b on bolt,
Wheel lug bolt 110 nm Use no lubricant, anti-sieze, oil on bolt or threads, use tap to clean hub threads if corroded


This is ongoing, will keep updating

Attached Thumbnails

         

Erased my old wording and adding new on 1/16/2022.

Spent part of the warmer day today installing a right front Lemforder control arm, old knuckle, new Bilstein strut/shock, old spring on the passenger side plus a little primer and paint for the old knuckles.

Plan to buy bushings and ball joints to rebuild my old original Mercedes ones so the quality will be better than the Lemforder.

Will add pictures to this post plus add more pictures in posts to follow.

First pictures show sequence of loading spring compession tool make by Klann but has Miller name and was used by Chrysler dealer mechanics.

I compressed 7 coils almost fully.

Suggest using smaller 3/8 socket and extension to tighten/loosen the spring compression tool. Even with the smaller socket it still took some effort to get the socket out and tool out. Socket wanted to hang up on edge of control arm opening. If you're going to do this often, I would suggest using a grinder and round off the lower edge of the socket. This would greatly reduce the chance of catching on the control arm.

Attached Thumbnails

         

Just lost 30 minutes of entry for this post. Due to website having a fairly short timeout. Guess i'll learn to ' submit ' text even though I'm not complete with my entry for that post.

Had 17 steps completed on how to use the spring compressor. Submitted it and was told I was no longer signed in. Signed in, but none of my entry was saved.

Will try it again later in the week.

Seems a better way would be to have the software check to see if the person signed on has started a new post and increase the timeout to maybe one hour.