I'm about to make a purchase on a #20 head out of a 1995 350sdl. It looks super clean, has been pressure tested, and comes with injectors. Seems fair at $1200. One thing it doesn't come with is a camshaft. Will my #14 cam fit without any issue?

The other current option is a well used looking #17 head with all components for $800. My local machine shop charges $350 for a cleaning and pressure testing, or $575 for valve job and clean/test.

A fresher #20 head sounds like a smarter call, but I've never done this before. haha

There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. It so true.

Best of luck.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Eric, I can be frugal at times. I made the wife pay for the marriage license. They would not give me a refund they said if it did not work out.

Unless you need the car running right away. I would shop for a possible better deal. The high number head needs different hard lines I believe as well. Placing a request in our parts wanted section might bring some results.

Does your 603 need the specific head for the SLS system? As the 617 engines did? The 6i7s had a hydraulic pump in the head to feed the rear suspension system in the station wagons.

Is there such a thing as a Marriage Warranty?

I'm quite eager to get this car on the road, and to start fixing the rust... So that's worth a slight premium to me. This particular head also looks very clean, with low mileage, and a pressure test.

The SLS pump on this wagon is thru the power steering system, so the head should drop in. Fuel lines are at a different angle, so I'm talking to the seller about including them. I have also read that they can be bent carefully to fit.

What's the consensus on a proper head gasket for a #20 on a 3.0L?

Only 2 choices for head gaskets original or repair size. Erling or MB aren't that much but Victor R works well also and should be cheaper. Are you just moving your cam and buckets over?

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

I am moving my cam over, as this new head doesn't include a cam.

Still trying to absorb as much information on the head swap. At what stage does the cam get unbolted from the sprocket? Does the engine need to be 'locked' at top dead center? Or can it be at TDC, and just stationary?

By buckets, do you mean hydraulic tappets? I've got a fresh set of INA lifters that will go into this #20

If you are going to a #20 head you will need the prechambers for that head too, they are a different angle than the #14 or the old ones will need to be machined to match. You'll also need different injector nut tool, the earlier one is notched, the later style needs splined. If you go with a 17 head everything wi.l swap over FYI.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

If you are very mechanically minded then head swap is not hard. May be 7 out of 10. If you are doing it for the first time then do all the research you can do. I used Victor HG myself. Make sure you zip tie the chain and the sprocket to hold the timing. Using your own cam is ok but it may bind a bit against the cam tower. Does the new head come with the cam towers? I think they are machined together with the head. Lifters rarely go wrong. You need to open it to drain the oil. I would just reuse it.

Anyway, I don't want to make your job more complicated but I normally take the oil pan off, push the pistons out to clean the grooves. Examine cylinder bores, rings and rod bearings. I don't recommend it unless you are very mechanically competent.

Good luck.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

The new head comes with prechambers, as well as the matching injectors, and cam towers. Just no camshaft. I'll likely send off the injectors to greazer fella for a rebuild, but might be tempted to just throw them in, if they look as clean as the head.

What's the removal method of the coolant fuel heater pipe in the back of the head? I removed the slip ring, but can't quite tell how to take out the rest of the pipe. It looks fragile, and I don't want to crack anything.

It should just pull out once the head is loose. I don't remember that being much of an issue. Don't forget the two small bolts at the front of the head too, and make sure to look at the manual for the procedure to remove the cam. Idk if I can post this link here but I will try it: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

I'm onto the exhaust side of the head. How much needs to be removed, to free up the head? Seems hard to access some of the manifold bolts without removing the turbo unit...

Are new head bolts often recommended? Or can the old bolts be cleaned thoroughly before install. I've seen some using a copper on the bolts and/or gaskets too. Is that standard procedure?

Thanks everyone!

The 2 pins holding the timing chain guide can be a bit of trouble. You should find a few threads here about the entire process.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

You have to take the turbo oil lines off, disconnect the exhaust, etc, or unbolt the manifold from the head. I have only taken them apart not put them back together, but I just took the whole thing out and took the whole thing out and separated the exhaust manifold from the head out of the car. I would get all new head bolts since I think they redesigned them at some point, but I believe you can measure them to see if they are still within spec or not. The timing chain guide pins can be removed with a bolt that threads into the end and some sockets or other spaces to pull the pin out as you tighten the bolt. Also the oil and transmission dipsticks are bolted to the head if I remember right.

I'll have a go at just unbolting the manifold first.

New head bolts will be queued up!

Didn't know about the transmission dipstick. Thanks for that.

I have done OM603 head job 3 times, OM601 once. I am not a mechanic but I like tinkering and a cheap skate. I tried to reuse everything, head bolts included and they never failed me. Small expenses all add up and the end result is unknown until you button up the last nut/bolt.

The fuel heater pipe is a plug in with an o-ring in there. You remove the clip and you need to remove the bolts holding the pipe at the oil filter body. Removing the chain guide pin will be fun. You can use a small slide hammer or use a bolt and socket/washers method to pull it out. Whatever you do, don't don't strip the thread or you will be screw big time. You don't need to remove the turbo to pull the head but it may be easier. You need an engine hoist to lift the head. You need good tools to remove bolts underneath the turbo brackets which is very awkward. Don't drop the bolt at the front of the head into the engine.

Anyway, good luck - you need it.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.