I wasn't successful in removing the AC clutch while the AC compressor is still connected to the freon hoses. Others might be able to do this, but to me, the clearances in front of the clutch don't provide enough access.

To me, it appears the freon hoses need to be disconnected to allow the compressor to be tilted downward, if so, it might as well be replaced if it's a high mileage unit.

I think you'd need to remove the radiator to get enough room? I've done this job multiple times, on both '87 and '95 124 diesels. I've always removed the compressor. Counter-holding the clutch plate while removing the screw is a trick, I have a nice strap wrench that is a vice grips with a bicycle chain for the strap, that works great. You will need good snap-ring pliers. I've used a 3-arm puller to pull those off. I would not recommend prying between the compressor body and the pulley wheel, like the video. Looks like a good way to start a leak in the body seals.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Are these Denso's the 10PA series?

https://youtu.be/CD5lLC5v6PE

https://youtu.be/MangGmPZc6g

Or the 10P Series?

https://youtu.be/sh-KIjAqh-A

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC