Hi, 1980 240d 4 speed here.

Just had my a/c system repaired. New compressor, o-rings, Vacuumed out, new oil and refrigerant.

The system works ok (could be better) when I am driving over 40 mph and highway speeds. When I slowdown and enter stop and go traffic, like in todays 90 degree weather, the system blows slightly warm at best.

I notice when the engine temperature increases in stop and go traffic, the a/c stops blowing cold air?
Could it be the condenser fan? I am having a problem figuring this out.
Is there a way to test that front fan?

Thanks.

Has it been converted to r134 refrigerant? If it has you will need to have a parallel flow condenser installed. If it was charge up with r12 then it sounds like it may be slightly low on refrigerant.

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Jim

Yes, it was charged with R12.

I am starting to think it needs more refrigerant.
Also, I am going to take a look at the condenser cooling fan. The fact that it is better at highway speeds is leading me to believe that maybe that fan is not coming on and the highway air is cooling the condenser.

At the end of my 125 mile drive today, I left the a/c on and opened the hood and the fan wasn't on.

What are the pressure readings? Does it have a sight glass in the drier?

Yes, if the condenser fan isn't working it will cause low speed problems but it wouldn't inhibit good A/C performance on the highway.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Ever get this sorted? This part sounds suspicious. If you don’t have circulation through the condenser you’re not going to get much cold.

My SD is having some auxiliary fan issues. Or perhaps I need to check my fan clutch. During these hot days in SoCal the car is taking a long time to make cold air. It really gets cold on the highway. Two things are possible here - fans or rpm. On 134a (what I use) I may need a little more rpm to get the compressor working. It wasn’t a problem when I serviced the system.

Or it could be the car was just blistering hot after being parked in the sun.

I haven’t heard my auxiliary fan in awhile. I haven’t missed it because it makes an obnoxious whine when I pull into my garage on hot days.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

Carl, for what’s it worth, the switch Rollguy sells to keep the aux fan running full time made a huge difference in my 240.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Since my fan clutch is shot on my 91, I keep aux fans running all the time in the summer (by simply bypassing the pressure switch). Engine temp remains stable and AC seems better than ever!

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 75k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

I replaced my compressor last year after the original one was suspected of being faulty, and the ac has never blown colder (at least in the last 15 years that I owned the car). It's made a big difference.

1991 300d, 256k

If your engine heats up beyond a certain point it will also shut off the AC, how are your coolant temps and radiator fan? Often an engine with a bad fan clutch will stay cool at highway speeds but rapidly heat up in traffic.

You can check the condenser fans themselves by putting a jumper across the high pressure switch that turns them on to low speed. It's also possible the fuse is blown, I believe they have their own fuse. There is also a resistor that is used by the low speed, if it's failed you will only have the high speed that comes on when the engine is overheating.

My 1993 is like a refrigerator both on the highway and at idle. I converted to R290 as I do all my vehicles. R290 has a lower evaporation temperature and moves more heat per unit of mass flow, to the point where "full cold" will make my hands ache holding the steering wheel.

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1993 300D 2.5L Turbo

Fan should have been on.

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Jim

AC pressure is good. And the engine coolant temperature only rises slightly if I am traveling for a long period of time at high speeds or sitting in traffic.

"You can check the condenser fans themselves by putting a jumper across the high pressure switch that turns them on to low speed. It's also possible the fuse is blown, I believe they have their own fuse. There is also a resistor that is used by the low speed, if it's failed you will only have the high speed that comes on when the engine is overheating."

I think I may have a problem with my fans.
Do I jump the high pressure wire leads or the actual switch? Also, when I do this test I take it the a/c should be on high?

I have 2 separate leads that go into a fitting, and also one wire that plugs into a single fitting and then goes into two leads.
Can you tell me which wires I jump?

I have not been able to locate a resistor for the a/c fan on my 1980 240d.
Is it built into the fan itself or is it a separate unit (block) attached somewhere in the engine compartment?

The key should be in ON but the AC setting doesn't matter, the engine doesn't even need to be running. The pressure switch should be near the condenser on the high pressure line, just short the two wires together that are attached to the switch and the fans should spin up on low speed.

It should be the fitting with two spade terminals on it.

The resistor should be in the engine compartment somewhere, as the fan only has two leads. You can directly test the fan at full speed by putting 12v on those leads.

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1993 300D 2.5L Turbo

I shorted the wires together from the a/c switch (two terminals pointing up) and with the ignition on. The fan did not come on. I do not have 2 fans, just one.

I ran 12 volts off of the battery to the fan and it came on. I also cleaned the connector (wire harness) going to the fan in hopes that it may have something to do with the condenser fan not coming on. The pressure switch was replaced.

Does anyone know if there is a relay or a resistor associated with this fan? It is a 1980 240d.

My manual doesn't show one.

I have tested the pressure and temperature switches, and they are good.
The fan operates with 12v directly applied.
I have tried four different relays in each of the two-silver ice cube shaped relays located on the driver's side fender under the black box.

The only thing that I think it could be now is the wiring from the relay to the auxiliary fan plastic wire connector.

Maybe there is a pinched wire or a section that is broken.

Anyone else ever have this issue?

Sugar Bear asked for the pressures. Saying that they are good doesn’t give us what we need to offer better help.

The purpose of the electric fan is to prevent excessive high side pressure. I think chasing the electric fan operation is a worthwhile pursuit, but I think there could be something else going on that is leading to your symptoms. Having the pressures gives us more information to help you with.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

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