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  #1  
Old 07-22-2002, 04:32 PM
240DBenzer
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Exclamation Valve Adjustment

Can anyone tell me how to turn the engine when adjusting the valves? Also, in which direction should the engine be turned?

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  #2  
Old 07-22-2002, 05:23 PM
SW SW is offline
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I usually turn it using a wrench on the bolt on the power steering pulley. I turn it clockwise. Many will disagree about using the power steering pulley, but I've done it plenty of time with no ill effects.
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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold
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  #3  
Old 07-22-2002, 06:35 PM
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Or get yourself a 27mm or 1 1/16 inch deep socket and put this on the crank end. Always turn the motor in the direction of normal rotation.
You can tell by looking at the fan blades and seeing which way to turn the motor and make the fan "pull" air.
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  #4  
Old 07-22-2002, 06:43 PM
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I'm in the process of doing this now on the '82 300D along with the task of replacing the air cleaner rubber block mounts. I bought the car at 296K and it now has 325K and I have to admit not doing the valves before now. They are all tight. Intakes have little or no clearance, and the exhaust are tighter than spec.

If you buy the injector socket tool from Performance Products (something like $25) that also fits the big nut on the crankshaft pully. This should be a more sturdy place to turn the engine from than the power steering pully. Plus you may need to do some injector work in the future. PP sells a Hazet socket as their "injector socket" and it is a good quality part.

The engine turns clockwise as viewed from the front.

Be careful not to turn it over so fast it starts - just kidding.

Ken300D
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  #5  
Old 07-22-2002, 06:53 PM
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If you do not have the larger socket and want to use the P/S pulley then I would recommend removing some glow plugs first to relieve the pressure.
The first time I used the pulley I thought I would break it off when approaching TDC on some of the cylinders. I guess you could consider that a poor man's compression check... or maybe not.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2002, 07:51 PM
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That same socket is $8 from Sears.....
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2002, 09:41 AM
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Although I use the deep socket to turn the engine via the crankshaft pulley ( just because I have one), you can use a regular 27mm or 1 1/16 inch socket and a short extension.

P E H
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2002, 04:34 PM
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The 'hit and miss' method works if you are patient....just bump the engine around with the starter key....watching the cam lobes. just a short hit or it will start!
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2002, 04:48 PM
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I have a gentle slope on my driveway, so I can just put it in 3rd or 4th gear and gently pull the car towards me to get the engine to turn over, then stop it when the lobes are in the correct position for a particular cylinder, and use the emergency brake to keep it there. I make the adjustments, then pull it towards the next cylinder. The firing order is cast into the valve cover (Zuendfolge) so you can just go from cylinder to cylinder in that order. My driveway is pretty long and I have two teenage boys to help me push it back if I have to, but I can make adjustments then check each one after going through a couple of complete engine cyclings in a car length or so. In other locations I turn the engine with the 27mm wrench on the crank pulley fastener, or I use the power steering pulley fastener. I lean towards the power steering pulley fastener these days since it is so accessible.

Good luck, you have lots of choices that all work. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2002, 12:14 AM
240DBenzer
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Thanks everyone for the info, but I still have one question... where exactly is the crankshaft located? :p
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  #11  
Old 07-24-2002, 12:50 AM
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The crankshaft is located in the bottom of the block just above the oil pan. The lower drive pulley for the fan belts is located on the end of the crankshaft. In the center of this pulley is a 27mm nut that holds the pulley on the crankshaft. To turn the engine by hand, you put a 27mm or 1 1/16 socket wrench on this nut and turn clockwise (facing front of the engine) with a ratchet wrench.

P E H
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2002, 12:55 AM
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The crankshaft pulley is the one that has all the belts running on it. It is located at the bottom, center of the engine, just below the water pump/fan pulley.

The belts are all driven by the crankshaft, with the alternator and water pump/fan driven by the innermost (closest to the block) belt, then the power steering pump which is a little higher than the waterpump/fan pulley, and off to the driver's side (US model), while the A/C pulley and belt are on the outermost position, and the A/C compressor and pulleyare below the power steering pump, also on the driver's side. Hope that helps. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2002, 08:50 AM
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Valve Adjustment Wrenches

I thought I'd let everyone know that I found Valve Adjustment wrenches over at Performance Products for $61.60! That includes the third one. Here's the address for the ones for my 240D: http://www.************************/product_page.asp?attFlag=0&appFlag=0&productname=Valve+Adjustment+Wrenches&productfamily=Valve+Adjusting+Tools&subcat=Engine+%26+Electrical+Tools&category=Specialty+Tools&make=MERCEDES%2DBENZ&model=240D&submodel=+&series=123&year=1982&vehicletype=CAR&keyword=&vendorid=&search=
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1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
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  #14  
Old 07-24-2002, 09:36 AM
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Location: Northern Virginia
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This seller on EBay has the bent wrenches.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1846066934

That's where I got mine - does not include the special wrench to hold the valve spring in place. If I have need to hold the valve spring somewhere I hope a pair of sliding jaw pliars will work.

Ken300D
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  #15  
Old 07-24-2002, 09:55 AM
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I picked em up

Thanks Ken, unfortunately I did not see they were for the unimog until after I purchased them. I'm sure I can make them work and they will probably work better than the straight Craftsman wrenches I have been using.

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