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  #1  
Old 04-10-2011, 05:15 PM
ngarover's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Northern Georgia
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Removing the alda

Ya, I know there are tons to threads about the Alda, but I can not find one that tells you how to remove it...

This is on my 85 300cd with the 617 engine...

Basically, I have been at this for some time, but I can not get the thing to unbolt. Turning the bolts under it only make it move, which causes it to get stuck against the thing beside it. Then there is not enough room to get the wrench back on to turn it any more... It was much easier to get it off my 87 with the 603, a job that took all of about 5 minutes.... 2 hours later I'm out of ideas.

The only solution I see it so remove the main fuel filter, and the ip lines in order to give the tools enough room to turn it... Also, I can't seem to get the 2 nuts "unlocked" so they will only turn together.

Can I just bust the thing open and gut it and leave the bottom on?

And, if your wondering why I'm messing with it in the first place, I have a feeling mine is shot. At some point the PO has turn it fully counter clockwise ithe setting yet I can't get the car to smoke no matter how hard i try. I'm suspecting that it's limiting the fuel.

Open to ideas at this point.

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  #2  
Old 04-10-2011, 05:28 PM
aaa aaa is offline
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Get a big channel locks and hold it still while you turn the nut underneath.
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2011, 06:18 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIF
Posts: 508
ALDA REMOVE

1984 300D TURBO 157K
USE A LARGE C-CLAMP TO HOLD THE ALDA FROM TURNING, TURN THE LARGE
NUT UNDER THE UNIT.
10 PSI PRESSURE TEST FIRST AT ALDA FOR LEAKS USE A FUEL PRESSURE AND
VACCUM GAGE, A VACCUM TESTER WILL HAVE PRESSURE ON TOP. HAD A LEAK AND REPLACE O RING SEAL INSIDE ALDA 4 SCREWS
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2011, 06:38 PM
ngarover's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAYMOND485 View Post
1984 300D TURBO 157K
USE A LARGE C-CLAMP TO HOLD THE ALDA FROM TURNING, TURN THE LARGE
NUT UNDER THE UNIT.
10 PSI PRESSURE TEST FIRST AT ALDA FOR LEAKS USE A FUEL PRESSURE AND
VACCUM GAGE, A VACCUM TESTER WILL HAVE PRESSURE ON TOP. HAD A LEAK AND REPLACE O RING SEAL INSIDE ALDA 4 SCREWS
Cool, I'll give that a shot. I'll have to wait as I don't have a large enough wrench for the large bottom bolt, only the one above it and drove over to use a friends earlier. I have the mighty vac... So I can test that part...
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2011, 07:05 PM
JiveTurkey's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 911
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!

On a 617 its easy to break the shaft that goes down from the alda into the injection pump allowing the pump to slip down to low enrichment where your car will struggle to rev past 2,000 rpm with the accl pedal floored. This is a bad thing. If this happens you will have to remove the allen head fastners holding the vacuum control mechanism and the four flat head fastners holding the top on the IP. Remove the top and be careful not to lose the gasket. Solidly attach some copper wire or high strength fishing line to the broken piece of linkage and attach it to the fuel injection lines running overhead so there is no slack. You will feel the linkage click up into the full enrichment mode. If your fix slips down your car will lose all power and you will have to reattach the wire. Reinstall the top of the IP and the vac. mechanism and be prepared to drip lots of oil every time you park. Youll lose a noticible ammount of oil but youll be able to drive where you need to until you can pull the IP and repair it.

Hope it doesnt go catastrophicly wrong, but if it does the above method will allow you to drive.

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