Can anyone supply instructions for a oil & filter change for my 98 E300TD

I do not have access to a 'topsider' & probably won't have the car long enough to bother buying one.

Many thanks

Chief

Remove the front belly pan by removing the 8MM screws, I think there are six of them. Slide a drain pan underneath the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Remove the plug and let the oil drain into the pan.

Using the socket purchased at the dealer for about $10 OR a 15" adjustable wrench on the hex at the top of the oil filter cover, loosen and remove the cover and filter. Allow enough time for everything to drain thoroghly.

Replace the drain plug into the oil pan, and replace the belly pan.

Pour some oil in the oil filter cannister, then put in the new filter, check the seal on the cannister cover and renew if necessary, you should have a new one in your oil filter box. Put the cover and fliter in place and turn the cover into place and snug it up, don't overtighten, just snug it.

Pour in the rest of the oil.

Good luck,

Larry ! What ? No " Change it while it is HOT ? " You feeling under the weather ?

Chief,

The oil filter tool I use is a 36mm socket I bought at Sears for about $6. Good Luck, Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Thanks for your help.

Won't be problem from here on in.

Cheers
.
Chief

Well, this is 2 days later so you may have already done it, but I'll chime in anyway. Because the intake manifold is in the way, you can't get an adjustable wrench square on the filter cover, so you're better off buying the correct socket. You could get by with the wrench, but it will mess up the plastic cover. Go ahead, ask me how I know this.

I also want to point out then when adding oil to the regular fill point, you should direct the stream toward the front of the car so it runs down the timing case. Of course this is backwards from what we would all do by default. The reason is that it is possible for oil to overflow into the #1 cylinder causing a runaway situation or a hydrolock. The techs were instructed about the former in OM606 engine class, but I've also heard of the latter.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

I don't know if it aplies to your engine, but on the OM603 the manual instructs to do the work when the engine is hot and to first remove the filter then drain the oil. Not sure why or if it makes a difference.

Henry

__________________
63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

Always change your oil when its hot. Just be careful. The reason you need it hot is so its fluid, and it drains out completely. You don't want to change cold oil. It may just never drain completely. Good luck!