What maintenance is imperative? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 01-22-2003, 06:55 PM

If I want my diesel to last forever, what all do I need to do? Of course, I know oil changes and fuel system purges are important, but please give me details, brand names, ways to keep costs reasonable (I'm not a mechanic), simple things I can do myself. Also, if a Mercedes seller doesn't want to go to the trouble of letting me take the car to a mechanic, are there any telltale ways I can detect if an engine, transmission, or components, are wearing out?
Also, I've been told that diesels are notorious for having small oil leaks. Are there ways to stop leaks without expensive mechanic bills? Is there an additive that really helps?

Fisherman · #2 01-22-2003, 07:28 PM

I own two diesels and neither one of them has any oil leaks. I would guess that if they are saying that is because they haven't cared much about the car. Otherwise it stands to reason that when havign their oil changed by their mechanic (not the quick lube guy) that he would have pointed out the leaks and they would have had them fixed.
Just my two cents... If they refuse to have the PPI done as Bill stated then there's something wrong with this picture.
I assume you offered to pay for it.

#3 01-22-2003, 07:54 PM

It is a good thing to want to keep your diesel rolling forever. I am the same way.

If you look through out the forum you will get countless ways to keep them doing so. Maintenance is almost a manner of personal opinion here as I am sure most of us are not undermaintainers. So with that here is what I do.

1. Change oil 4000 miles Delvac I or simular
2. Change trans fluid and filter every 30000
3 Change fuel filter every six months
4. Change rear end fluid every 30000
5 Change coolant every year
6. Keep at least half tank of fuel (most of the time)
7. Let it warm up for a minute or two
8. CHange the brakes once a year (My car eats front brake pads)
9. Drive it on long trips (it likes it)

I use all synthetic fluids if cost is a concern use dino it will be good enough.

One thing that I always do is check all of my fluids each time I fuel up. I do this as if it was a good habit. The reason is that these cars are old and troulbe will happen when you dont expect it....so expect it.

Those intervals will not be supported by all but I think that they are reasonalble enough.

Good luck

bob

Stevo · #4 01-22-2003, 08:18 PM

Just one thing to add to Bobs list, adjust the valves every 15K on engines built up to 1986 and at the same time check timing chain stretch. Also change brake fluid every couple years (dot 4).

psfred · #5 01-22-2003, 08:56 PM

Two issues here -- driveline and body/interior.

Driveline:

Oil changes frequently -- if using "mineral" oil, change every 3000 miles religiously. I drive a 1992 Chevy box van (el stripo) that currently has 303000 miles on it with no engine work -- uses about a quart of oil between changes, sometimes more, sometimes less. On the third tranny, but the engine has never been worked on. DO NOT cheap out on oil. You can use 6000 mile intervals if you use a good synthetic. 617 engines and earlier collect soot rather badly, so don't go further. Later engines are less likley to collect soot in the oil

Tranny service by the book -- fluid and filter change every 30,000 miles and it will run 250,000 without over work. Synthetic tranny fluid will probably make it last longer, too.

Fix ANYTHING that is not correct as soon as possible. This prevents a collection of repairs all at once.

Coolant change at least every two years (annualy isn't a bad idea), belts and hoses every three or four or when worn, diff oil change per schedue above, keep the brakes in good shape.

Body needs the following: wash and wax, keep the water beading on it at all times. Protect from extensive sun exposure if at all possible. Treat leather with GOOD leather treatment (Lexol or Leatherique) on at least a semiannual basis -- the will prevent the leather from dryrotting. Keep the carpets clean, grit will ruin them in short order. Protect the dash from sun with a shade.

You will need to replace the front and rear windsheild gaskets when they get hard to prevent leaks. On W123 chassis cars, keep the sunroof and front fender drains clear or you risk rust at the firewall (and water on the floor).

Hints on purchase:

You want an engine that starts immediately cold and instantly runs smoothly. Long cranking, rough idle, and excessive smoke are all bad signs. Hard start can be a simple as weak glowplugs, but the easy test is to stay away from any car that won't start easily.

Some black smoke under heavy acceleration is normal, but if should only be just vissible (it will show up more at night). Big clouds of smoke, of any color, mean trouble.

Tranny will shift rather hard by American standards, but should be just firm, not make a bang. Should shift into fourth at 20 - 30 mph under very light throttle, but allow near redline shifts if you floor it. Shift must be crisp -- MB trannys don't slide any between gears. Long delay going into reverse or sloppy shifts can be trouble. Very harsh shifts can be a simple fix or a bad tranny. Slipping, noise, or very late shifts at light throttle, or no upshift at wide throttle are bad news.

Car should run smoothly, very quiet, should not wander on the road, and must not pull either direction on braking.

Peter

#6 01-23-2003, 08:37 AM

Thanks to those of you who explained what maintenance diesels need. Any more hints are appreciated. Have any of you used Amsoil products? If so, what is your opinion? They're somewhat expensive but the claim is that you don't have to change fluids as often because of the quality.

Tom Sweeney · #7 01-23-2003, 08:58 AM

Steve,
If you are going to change the brakes every year or two, you should also replace the brake fluid to remove any moisture which will be suspended in the brake fluid.

leathermang · #8 01-23-2003, 09:52 AM

You should find a Factory Shop Manual " Maintenance" book... It is not the Engine repair, the two chassis manuals, the Electrical manual, the ACC manual....they printed these for our diesels... I have seen one live and one on Ebay but do not own one yet...
When I got my first MB I spent $2000 for it and $200 for printed shop manuals RIGHT UP FRONT... these are different and sometimes strange mechanical contraptions... MB made up its own rules for lots of stuff... tending towards the obsessive...so a manual is pretty important to keep from messing things up and costing more than a repair should cost... LOTS of Warnings posted in the manuals...

psfred · #9 01-23-2003, 10:48 PM

Amsoil is fine oil, but only makes economic sense if you use if for extended intervals, and this requires doing oil analysis and understanding the results. Any full synthetic will work as well with "normal" -- that is, 6000 mile or so -- change intervals.

There are a number of suggested maintenace things to be done at each oil change (such as lubricate the throttle linkage, remove and inspect brake pads every other change, etc) -- the manuals are a good idea. The W123 manual is available cheap on eBay as a set of CDs (much more usuable if you have a PC, on a mac the stupid shell program won't run.....), and paper manual show up periodically. Not too cheap, but I prefer the paper ones myself.

If you get a Benz in good condition, especially the W123 and W124 chassis, they tend to be low repair for most people. Neglect them though, and they get expensive fast.....

Peter

speedy300Dturbo · #10 01-24-2003, 12:15 AM

psfred: You can't get the service CD's to run on your Mac? In the "program" folder of the cd, just open the document "matrix6.htm" in your web browser.

#11 01-24-2003, 03:30 PM

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psfred · #12 01-24-2003, 10:54 PM

Speedy:

I will try that, but I already have ShockWave installed in Netscape.....

Peter

Stevo · #13 01-24-2003, 11:34 PM

Steve

Lots of good advice in this thread. What to add, Did anyone mention the door hinge lub? Use one of those grease gun fitting with the tiny end, I had one for greasing the roller on chain saw bar end.
You asked about Amsoil. I started using the products because the PO of my daughters 240D had used them since 40K. After a year I decided to switch all the family 240Ds. I think Mobil 1 is just as good from what I've read.
You should have a Haynes manual too. It has good explanations of the easy stuff, water pump etc. Have fun.