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  #1  
Old 02-17-2003, 01:57 PM
bob
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 4
Unhappy Transmission Problems

I have a 82 300d that has trans problems. I would slip on 1st gear and teh rest of the shifts would be ok. It would also take a few seconds to shift into drive. Then at a stop it would not go forward at all. I hade reverse for about 1/8 of a mile then engine died and reverse was gone too. I changed the filter & fluid and added 4 quarts of ATF, but the level on the stick will not go down.

I am thinking about working on the transmission myself or finding a manual 4-speed.

Any ideas?

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 02-17-2003, 02:50 PM
Aaron's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,937
Bob,

For some reason the '82s had a lot of transmission problems. Sounds like a hydraulic problem to me. I think it's time for a rebuild. Check prices at MB, they're not too outrageous. Also check Peter Schmid (http://www.peterschmid.com).
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2003, 03:52 PM
Mark Tamburrino
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A new transmission might not do it

It sounds like it could be beyond a easy fix. I just want to
express my opinion that a new transmission will not work
right if the vacuum control or other external signals are
not correct. That may be stating the obvious, but I did
not realize it when I spent over $1,000 (on ebay, new) on
a trans for my 82' 300sd. Add to that $250 for a rebuilt
converter and $550 for installation and I have a trans
that shifts too early or too hard or a compromise between.
I like the 4spd manual conversion idea if you are able and
the adjustments are no problem. Keep in mind that the
Euro version of the 300d came with manuals (but no turbo)
and I recently saw a nice 5spd go for $2,300. Perhaps the
best plan is saving for one of these. I was quoted $1,800
for a automatic trans at MB. This does not include a torque
converter. There is also a core charge, which is refunded
upon you having a rebuildable core. I just don't earn enough
to use the word reasonable to describe this price. To me
this kind of money is reasonable for a good used car.
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2003, 08:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Western Mass.
Posts: 324
I'm not sure if all the engines that vintage had a hole in the cranckshaft for a pilot bearing
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03 C240 4matic wagon
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  #5  
Old 03-16-2003, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 1,004
I changed the filter & fluid and added 4 quarts of ATF, but the level on the stick wi

Bob,
I'm a little concerned about your statement above... "level on the stick won't go down"? Did you drain the torque converter also when you changed the tranny fluid? Could it be that you are way overfilled on the tranny? I have found MBZ transmissions to be very sensitive when adding fluid i.e. you can easily overfill them. This is not a good condition and if you are overfilled you will needto drain some off before troublshooting. I loosened the banjo bolt on the tranny end of the dipstick tube and let it drain out at that point when mine was ovefilled by the PO.

There are numerous posts on this forum with fixes/ideas for transmission problems. At the bottom of the forum is a search feature that is very, very good and can give you hours of reading fun. It is well worth your time to do the research here before pursuing an expensive repair on your car.

Try the search and see if the info there helps you first... Then if you have further questions or require clarification post your question and many here will try to help.

By the way, the early shifting or slipping is usually noted as "flaring" here on this board. Might help in your search...

Good luck and keep us updated on your success.
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2003, 07:58 PM
bob
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 4
Thank you for the replys.

When I changed the AT fluid I did drain the torque converter too. I was hoping to find broken parts in the pan, but there was nothing in it. The car has been sitting in my yard for the past few months. Right now I am to busy to work on the car. The prices of a rebuilt transmission are more than I paid for the car. I only drove the car for 6 weeks and 5,000 miles before the transmission went out. It has 178,000 miles on it and rust holes common to this area. It would not start when it was below about +25 degrees, so I do not know if it is worth a rebuilt transmission. It also has vacuum problems, I was diagnoising the problems when the transmission went out. It would shift very hard in all the gears with the doors unlocked and would flair between 1-2 shift and the rest of the shifts were smooth with the doors locked. It also needs a stop valve because I have oil in the vacuum lines at the key, but it still shuts off. I was quoted a price of $450 to change this so I was going to do it myself. I will not know if the crank is drilled for a pilot bearing untill I pull the transmission I hope it is because I am leaning towards a manual transmission if I fix the car. With all the good info in this site I could maintain the car for many years.

Thanks,
Bob

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