Wondering if anyone has tried this. It seems as though it would make life much easier and the hole would not have to be very big. Maybe the inside location is inaccessible due to the heating ducts? It seems to me it might be at the top of the footwell. It could be plugged up afterwards. I think the biggest problem would be locating the precise place to drill inside.

Thoughts?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Sure have and makes the change much easier. After having no success getting the top starter bolt out for 4-5 hrs., I pulled up the passenger side mats, got out my 1" hole cutter and approximated where the hole should be cut up on the firewall. The location is not super critical as you will using a universal on an extension, so you should be able to get to both bolts, but try to favor the top bolt. A snap from there on. Shot some foam in a can in the hole, let it dry and trimmed. No more messing with that top bolt.

Good luck.

I sure thought about it when trying to access it from the fender... but when I got the proper length extensions on the ratchet it turned out to not be such a big problem...but of course it does mean getting the car up in the air ....

Totally not necessary! All you have to do is unbolt the transmission mount. Four bolts directly underneath the car and the tranny will sag down about 4 inches and that is plenty of room to get the top bolt out. You will need 2 long extensions and a universal socket...and then no problemo!

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1982 300D Turbo "Helga"
380,000 miles

Just changed the starter on my non-turbo 300CD a couple of weeks ago. I broke a Snap-On universal joint trying to remove the top bolt from under the car. I took off the air cleaner and then used a curved or bent handle ratchet that has a 180 degree head. No problem getting the bolt out from the top with this. I've had this ratchet for a while, but never needed it before. The bottom bolt is no problem.

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Mike

2000 SL500 22,000 miles
1981 300CD 188,000 miles
1979 450 SEL 266,000 miles
2005 Cadillac CTS 25,000 miles

Kerry:

I had good fortune from way, way back. If memory serves me correctly, I used a 2 foot extension and a couple of universals. Fortunately, those recessed allens give good depth so that you can put some serious torque on it. Didn't have to remove anything. Went back together the same way.
I found the job significantly easier than the alternator or block heater install.

Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

Wow.. Never knew that bolt was a problem.. Been changing them from the 70's.. Just use the right size socket with a universal and most of the extensions in the tool box.. Puts the thing out past the back of the tranny.. can use a cheater if needed.. works great..

Ken

I go along with Ken. Diesel starters are a piece of cake. I've said it before. You have to work from the rear of the tranny. Snap-On sells a cool extension that is about 30 inches long and is 1/2 inch drive at the ratchet end and 3/8 inch drive at socket end.Drop the rear end of the tranny, and then using a short 10 mm allen on a 3/8 wobbly, remove the bolts. You can use the extension for many other hard to get bolts.

Peter

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