gotta love the old diesel - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

adiaw83 · #1 03-08-2003, 11:32 PM

After letting it sit for basically the whole winter through feet of snow, it started up perfectly. I primed the injection pump about 12 pumps worth and it started right up. It didn't even really need to crank very much or anything. Anyway now that I have it running, How difficult is brake work because they need to have at least new pads put on if not new discs. Also It needs some body work done and a few interior items in place. The passenger front window needs to be fixed. I already tried this myself a while ago but to no avail. Also i noticed that there is a lot more turbo whine. After accelerating for about 10-20 seconds, when i let go of the gas, that airplane type whine or hiss seems to last longer than it used to. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

mikemover · #2 03-09-2003, 03:16 PM

Brake pads are easy...Takes me less than 10 minutes per wheel. Knock the two pins out, pull the old pads and the "retaining bracket" out, carefully push the pistons in the caliper all the way back, insert new pads, put the bracket and the pins back in.

Mike

P.E.Haiges · #3 03-09-2003, 04:33 PM

NOTE,

Only do one pad a time so you don't pop a caliper piston out.

P E H

leathermang · #4 03-09-2003, 04:37 PM

FOR SURE ! Listen to PEH,,, not a lesson you want to learn first hand !

adiaw83 · #5 03-09-2003, 06:18 PM

thanks. I'm limmited on tools though and I don't have jackstands or anything so im not sure how safe this would be.

mikemover · #6 03-10-2003, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by P.E.Haiges
NOTE,

Only do one pad a time so you don't pop a caliper piston out.

P E H

Good point...It hadn't occurred to me that someone might remove all of them at once.

Mike

Wasuchi · #7 03-10-2003, 09:28 AM

Jack stands can be had for around $10 a pair (Wal-Mart etc.), those may not be the best ones but they work ok and are plenty strong if they are sitting on a level suface.

P.E.Haiges · #8 03-10-2003, 10:13 AM

Do you have a "floor jack"? If not, you should buy one. They can be bought for less than $25. Try to find one with a built in carrying handle. This makes for much easier handling of the jack.

I consider a floor jack sufficient to work on a car doing work such as a brake job where you are not under the car. You can always slide a log or wheel with a 2X4 or 4X4 on it under the car frame which will stop the car from falling if the jack should slip. Of course you would only work on one corner of the car at a time and chock the wheels and set the brakes.

P E H

73MB280SEL · #9 03-10-2003, 12:53 PM

Like Mike said, pads are easy on a Benz, much easier than most cars. I used a small phillips screwdriver to drive out the pins that hold the pads in. It only takes a little tap. The old pads are (obviously) worn more than the new ones, so you will have to push the pistons back in. To do this, I used a plain old C clamp. I left the pads in and put the C clamp up against the brake pad "ear" that the retaining pin goes through and squeezed it back in. Then you can just drop a new set of pads in.

I would strongly recommend jack stands. No sense taking risks using just a floor jack to hold the car when jack stands are so cheap.

Sholin

adiaw83 · #10 03-15-2003, 05:32 PM

I just got my jack stands. I'm gonna go take off one of the wheels and familirize myself with the parts in there of the brakes. I didn't know the jackstands would be so cheap i was pleasently suprised. Anyone know what could be causing that noise from the turbo though?

adiaw83 · #11 03-15-2003, 09:42 PM

I just took a look at the brakes and there pretty grimey. I saw too really long pins that run though both halves of the calipers. Are these the pins that I have to take out. Also there were 2 wires and one of them was disconnected at the part closer to the engine of the car. I recconected it but haven't driven the car since. Anyone know what this is? There a lot of grim caked onto the calipers though is that gonna be a porblem when i change the pads? Also the disc was pretty rusty not across the part that comes within contact with the pads but on the width of the disc. Should i get new discs as well and if i do would I be able to put them in myslef? thanks

Wasuchi · #12 03-15-2003, 10:01 PM

Yep, those are the pins. the wires you are talking about are the wear indicators, probably need to be replaced.... very cheap. You need to buy some brake cleaner to clean the grime off. the disc can be replaced for about $25 each but they don't need to be unless they are too thin or have grooves worn in them (or are warped). You'll also need a 10mm hex socket if you replace the discs.

I did this not long ago and it was pretty easy.... except i had a stuck piston.

adiaw83 · #13 03-16-2003, 07:29 PM

I have ojo degreaser its a typical degreaser i uised it on my engine before. Do you think that would work for the brakes?

Wasuchi · #14 03-16-2003, 08:05 PM

Won't hurt anything to try that stuff, it might work.

billrok · #15 03-16-2003, 08:29 PM

You need at least 2 full cans of Brakekleen degreaser. Any old stuff at Pep Boys is fine. Put a tray underneath and get a brush and spray away. Do a search for brakes and you will find a wealth of info on the wear indicators and the like.