123 Door Seals - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Harvey Gaspar · #16 04-30-2003, 09:08 PM

I have a '97 E300D with an air leak on the front passenger side. I have ordered the seal from the MB dealer, but need to know if there are clips required for this model? And any other tips. Seems like a relatively new car for the ruber to leak, but the rubber tubing part is flattened and begins to leak at the top when at about 45 mph and higher. I tried shimming it up but that did not seem to help. There is no split ring around the door stop so I won't have to remove that. Any advice appreciated.

#17 04-30-2003, 09:18 PM

Don't know if the 97 is different from my 123 or 201 models. If the seal goes in a groove, you have to be careful pushing it in. Don't use a sharp screwdriver or putty knife--they can puncture or ruin the new seal. I dulled down an old putty knife and used that successfully.

I suspect you need clips for the front of the door. If so, be sure to buy new ones--the old ones are almost certain to break when you pry them out (or maybe they were just aged on my 1982 and 1985).

On my 82 (which I thought was rust-free) I discovered some rust in the channel at the bottom of the door when I removed the old seal. I painted on some rust convertor, but it would have been better to let it cure for a day before installing the new. You probably won't have that problem with a 97, but it's good to be prepared for it.

Other than that, it was a pretty simple job.

CSchmidt · #18 05-01-2003, 09:03 PM

Folks,

I've had a whistle in my passenger door at speeds above 70mph. Not wanting to get into the new door seal quite yet, I looked at the auto parts store and think I found the right stuff. It is "Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant #16B".

I taped on both sides of the door around the existing seal. I also taped ( 2" masking tape) the door jam where the seal contacts. I put about a 1/8" bead of the permatex along the part of the door seal that contacts the door. I closed the door and left it for 12 hours. The permatex formed a smooth bond to the existing door seal, not very noticable at all. And no more whistle!

We'll see how long it lasts.

Chuck

samiam4 · #19 05-01-2003, 10:41 PM

You can put a little piece of black cloth over it!! Then it will help hold it together....

I had one blow out completely- long split just old and dry

Harvey Gaspar · #20 05-01-2003, 11:26 PM

I installed the new door seal. Took a while to figure out the best approach. I thinks it is the best.. Here goes. First install the corner piece, and everything is easier from there and also you will have everything on either side fall into the right space. I had to start with the protrusion that fits under the lip of the groove and slip that under the lip by holding the rubber at an angle that would allow me to fully push the bulging portion in fully, (lets call this the peripheral portion). no gadjets required for this part. Then as soon as it is all the way in, I used a wooden tongue blade to push in the "internal" or ribbed edge. Doing a small portion at a time, and holding the peripheral portion in place as you push in the internal portion with the tongue blade, it worked. Also I did have to remove the door controller arm which required a torx wrench and was simple (one bolt). The tongue blade did not actually push into the rubber but instead was pushed between the metal and the rubber and it drags the ribbed edge into place nicely. Getting back to the corner right angle piece, you have to start the same way with the peripheral side and make sure you have it under the flanged edge before you try to push in the internal portion. This part takes a little tweeking and you have to remove the two screws on the exterior black door edge trim because they extend right into the groove, then when you put them back later they will also hold the rubber in place inside the groove. Nice thing about this whole process, is that there are no clips on the 210 front doors as the groove goes all the way around. As for the results: No wind leak. However, there is more wind turbulence on the passenger side anyhow and I suspect it is coming from an area around the fresh air intake which is on that side. But my air leak and noise are gone. Hope this helps someone else. Regards, Harvey

lofat · #21 03-27-2005, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Take a look at your VIN number. The last six digits are the ones in question here. Example 123.133.12.xxxxxx

Hope this helps,

-Larry

what about if the VIN doesn't reflect either of these numbers? my last 6 are 136403 as opposed to 067049 or 067050.

I am a little confused about this. if it weren't pouring out right now i would go look at the plate under the hood with all the mercedes info.

any assistance offered is assistance appreciated.