Thanks R Leo:

I purchased an in-line Fuse Holder with 1.0 amp fuse, I see the two wires (1 brown, 1 black) going into the pump, the balance of the wire is insulated and goes into the firewall. Would you say that this is the ideal place to splice and connect the Fuse Holder? Which wire is Hot, black or brown?

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THANK YOU. As suggested in this forum to prevent "frying" the ACC control unit as a result of the Recirculating Pump aka Auxilliary Water Pump has seized or shorted or demands greater than 1.3 amps to operate, I have installed an in-line fuse with 1.0 amp fuse on the Hot line by splicing a connection about 2" from the connector. In my 84 300DT, using a circuit tester with the ignition on ON position (engine not running); ACC on defrost; power to the pump disconnected, the brown wire with red dotted line is the power.

All is well!!

This thread suggests 1 amp.:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=55448

If it fails, I can always go up to say, 1.5-2.0 amps.

Here's another thread (see Larry Bible's post):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=28147

The reason RT's fuse blew is because it was rated 1 Amp at 125 Volt a.c., not 12 volt d.c. d.c. requires greater electron mass to carry the same power.

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87 300SDL 220K
85 300SD 218K
82 diesel Chevette 440K
85 subaru 4WD turbo
83 4.1L buick powered cutlass THE TOY

This is where I spliced and installed a blade-type fuse holder. The fuse holder is rated to 30A

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