I have illustared the basic procedures on my web site - go to Cars - Technical - Transmission.

This is on a 5 cylinder OM617.951 engined car with the 722.416 transmission.

Enjoy!

...and cleaned up the flow of this piece, which addresses:

Boost vacuum
Wide Open Throttle adjustment
Bowden cable
Idle vacuum at the vacuum control valve
Vacuum modulator
Summary of steps

Enjoy!

I illustrated the Bowden cable shift timing adjustments reversed - picture 9 of 20 - and have just corrected this. My apologies if I mislead anyone.

sir, goddamit you are good. let me know if you ever do an illustrated treatise on manual transmission reverse gear lockout mechanism.

The only manual trannies I'm familiar with are on my BMW bikes and they never break down....come to think of it, they don't have reverse either!

honest to god, i own an 77 r100rs. hasen't be run since 1983. oops. 8450 documented miles. original spoke wheels and tires separate from bike. bike presently wearing the after market morris mags. wanted to run tubeless tires.

Airheads rule!

Go ride.

Wow, these illustrated maintenance procedures want to make me go out and buy a W126. Maybe I'll do that as soon as I get a job. I was laid off my old job and I've got one lined up. I'm just waiting for my security paperwork to go through. It should be any day now.

Regards

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

IMHO, there's no finer buy for the dollar IF you are prepared to do your own work, and these cars are so well engineered you will find it great fun to do. Parts are actually inexpensive compared to more recent electronically over-burdened vehicles.

There's lots and lots of advice on buying used 126s here. Also feel free to ask when you are looking.

Remember, it's easier and cheaper to fix an engine than it is to fix a rotted, worn body or a bad interior. At the extreme, a reman diesel engine will run you, say, $5k. A concours paint job $10k....and you may still have a worn interior. Checked the price of new leather seat covers recently? Ther's a lot to be said for warm, dry climate cars, though 126s have excellent corrosion proofing. Just remember, these cars are now 10-20 years old.

Also, check Mike Tangas's excellent thread (search on his name) on bringing back his 560SEL from the dead. Something tells me he did not pay a lot for that car.

Thomas, thanks for pointing that out. I looked at all the work Mike did and I'm amazed at all the work he did. He paid a resonable price for the car and he was able to fix it up for his time and the parts cost.

It reminds me of the time I bought a Heathkit AR-15 stereo receiver for $50.00. It needed some work done to it, which I didn't know about when I bought it. I got out my test equipment, diagnosed the problems and repaired it. Many capacitors in the power supply needed to be replaced and I used larger value ones. I also have a spare I bought for $5.00 at a Hamfest. One always needs spares.

Regards

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Awwww, shucks fellers, I'm blushing

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Thomaspin,

I just looked over your brake replacement web site article. What a professional job. It must have taken you along time to produce it.

I bet that is just the way it is done at the local brake and muffler shop: when pigs fly.

Next I have to look at your auto transmission article. I don't know a bowden cable from a brake cable, even though I successfully R&R the auto transmission of my '80 300SD

BTW, I need one of those inner bearing removing tools. Do you take Visa or Mastercharge?

P E H

P.S.
Thanks for clearing up the manufacturing location of the bearings. He He He He

That sight is amazing. You actually inspired me to go back into my door panel and give fixing my window regulator another shot. Thanks a lot for all that great info.

__________________
W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking
Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex
Recent work:
Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields
Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts
Replaced positive battery terminal
Replaced negative battery terminal and cord
New Duralast Battery

My car needs work.

Paul - Used US currency only, non-sequentially numbered. I manufacture a variant for use on non-ABS discs also - slightly cheaper.

adiaw83 - it's worth a try - $4 for the slider is not a big investment if it's something else. If it's the motor, try a regulator/motor assembly from the local MB wrecker - s/b much cheaper and the rear windows usually get very little use. I confess I did have to spring $17 for that small ball peen hammer - never did own one. Any excuse for a new tool....

Thanks both for your kind words.

Thomas.

Thomaspin,

Your website is excellent!! Simple question for those of you who have read the transmission tune-up procedure. Is the tranny in the 300SDL the same as the SD? How about the bowden cable, location and vaccum adjustments? etc. I think I have a bit of flare on the 3-4 shift but I also think the torque converter doesn't really "grab" until about 3000rpm. What's the best way to differentiate between torque converter slippage and band slippage?

Any thoughts?

__________________
87 300SDL (115,000mi. 7/1/2008)
03 Jetta Wagon TDI (62,000mi. 7/1/2008)
75 240D(sold, sad to sell it, needed the garage for the SDL!)

Smokey