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#1
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Replacing front end components?
A local garage indicated that I need some front end components replaced (upper ball joints, tie rod ends). I own a 1982 240D. THe steering box will also eventually need replacement (there is some freeplay and apparently no adjustment remaining. I have never replaced front end components on cars, but am fairly handy with tools and have a garage with floor jacks, and axle stands. I also have the MB service manual. How difficult is it to replace these components? Do I need special tools (ball joint press? what is the cost?) I would take the car in for an alignment when finished. I like to maintain my 240D whenever I can, but this is a little new to me. Thanks for your thoughts.
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1982 240D 205,000miles+ 1987 Land-Rover 110 diesel 50,000miles+ |
#2
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Don't know about the ball joints, but complete tie rod assemblies are available from Fastlane for $30 each. At that price, why mess with ends? I'm buying complete assemblies because the ones on my 240D are rusted.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#3
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lots of other messages on this subject.
Upper ball joints/control arms are easy to replace, and you probably won't need to do an alignment. If something sticks, you will have to figure out how to seperate the parts, but you shouldn't need any special tools (although for me, a tie rod puller helped).
Tie rods are real easy also, but sometimes are tough to get apart (use a couple of big hammers or a puller). You will need an alignment afterwords. Steering idler arm bushing may merit attention as should the drag link or middle tie rod and shock. And lastly, you may want to consider the lower ball joints, usually done with a special tool, though reportedly possible without. I did complete frontend rebuilds in about 2 days each on both of my MBs, I had no real experience before this with cars. alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k 87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k 00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double |
#4
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Upper balljoints and tierods are easy on these cars. The upper balljoint is integral with the upper control arm so you just buy the upper arm assembly and replace it. That way you also get new upper control arm bushings as well. Removing the upper arm is simple. One large bolt to remove in the upper-inner fender well and pop the balljoint from the spindle then swap in new. Don't fully tighten the bolt that attaches the upper control arm to the car until it is on the ground with weight on the suspension. If you tighten the bolt with the suspension in full-"drop" you will incorrectly preload the new upper control arm bushings and wear them out prematurely. Get yourself a "import car pitman arm puller" from Autozone, about $15, it works great to separate the upper balljoint and tierods. Tierods are easy too. Get the whole assembly, remove old, install new. Make sure you get the car aligned IMMEDIATELY after the work is done or you will kill your front tires. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#5
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Thanks for the help and encouragement folks!! Looks like I have a couple of little projects waiting for me during my upcoming holidays!
Best regards, and long live the diesel Benz!
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1982 240D 205,000miles+ 1987 Land-Rover 110 diesel 50,000miles+ |
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